Aluminium Foil EPE Foam Insulation Sound Insulation Sponge Roofing Insulation Fasteners

Aluminium Foil EPE Foam Insulation Sound Insulation Sponge Roofing Insulation Fasteners System 1

Aluminium Foil EPE Foam Insulation Sound Insulation Sponge Roofing Insulation Fasteners

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Aluminum foil/XPE,EPE foam insulation

Characteristics

1.light weight,clean,thin,good flexibility and cushioning;

2.invariable if it is attacked repeatedly;

3.It overcomes the shortcoming of general foam such as,rubber ordinary brittle,the distortion,resilient.And also having super waterproof, moisture-proof, quakeproof, sound-insulated,the heat preservation,good plasticity,strong toughness, the circulation restoration, the environmental protection,strong anti-hit strength.So is it one good substitute material for the general packing material.

Application:

It using many flexibility for handbags luggage lining, industrial production of sound insulation,thermal insulation material of agricultural, aquaculture floating equipment, protective sports pad, water rescue operation equipment, home, hotel floor decoration, cushions and so on. The pipe is used extensively for air-conditioning, baby stroller, children's toys, furniture and other industries. EPE laminated fabricit ,as a good decoration material,generally use to various vehicles and living room.EPE alu film and alu foil or other composite products have excellent anti-ultraviolet infrared capabilities.It is also one good substitute material for a number of chemical and camping equipment, cold storage equipment,car shade.

Such as for industrial sheds,commercial buildings,home insulation,under wood or laminated flooring,roof insulation, carpet underlay and construction,packaging material to the sensitive products. To protect precise machine,elevator,slap up furniture ,sun shade,sand beach mat,heat preservation,and terrestrial heat.

Specification

Name of the products	Aluminum foil with FR grade EPE/XPE foam insulation
Mainly materials	Aluminum foil,EPE,XPE,IXPE foam,Metallized PET,LDPE,HDPE WOVEN,Air bubble
Structure	1.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+XPE/EPE 2.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+XPE/EPE+PE 3.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+XPE/EPE+PE+Alu(Metallized PET) 4.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+Woven+PE+XPE/EPE+Woven+PE+Alu(Metallized PET) 5.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+XPE/EPE+PE Bubble+Alu(Metallized PET) 6.Alu(Metallized PET)+PE+Woven+PE+XPE/EPE+PE Bubble+PE+Woven+PE+Alu(Metallized PET) 7.Customized
Aluminum foil thickness	6.5mic,7mic,9mic,12mic,15mic and so on
Metallized PET	10mic,12mic,15mic and so on
Foam thickness	0.5-7mm
Width and length	Width from 0.8-1.6m,length can be 20m,30m,40m,50m,100m and customized
Foam color	Red,green,blue,white,black and customized

Technical parameter

Type:Al/4mm EPE/Al

Structure	Al/4mm EPE foam/Al
Roll Dimension	1.2m*40m
Thickness	4mm
Weight	195g/m2
Emittance	0.03
Reflectivity	97%
R-Value	Up to R-11
Flame spread	25
Water Vapour Transmission	0.012g/m2 Kpa
Fungi Growth	No Fungi
Corrosion	Doesn't generate

Q: Live in Houston, very hot and humid. Looking at adding radiant and additional insulation to roof in house. We have a lot of sun, and AC bills.: we live in the desert, and got our roof coated, and instantly noticed the difference, it is much more insulated, and provides protection against leak (which was the main reason we had it done)

Q: I do not have extra space on the roof. Roof also tapers to drains at one end of building.: the R values, i am not sure. that white stuff is NOT Styrofoam. it is a cheap imitation. Real Styrofoam is made by DuPont, is usually a light blue, with a plastic seal coat on both sides. that thin plastic seal coat doubles the R value. what really does the insulation, is trapped air. air is actually a poor conductor of heat. the foam is actually little bubbles of air. dead air that is, air that cannot circulate and move. it works similarly to the way a down vest or coat works, it fluffs up and holds the air pockets out within a confining structure, thus retaining heat. the rigid stuff will last much longer, i can tell you that much. the white foam stuff deteriorates quickly. buy cheap, get cheap, is the general rule. you may wind up only having to do it again in a few years.

Q: the best way to thermal insulate and water proofing of rcc slabs economical, may be some poly urethane material or whatever but should be very effective and light weight.: use a polythene sheet . i dont know about where u live but where i live we get very long and broad size thick polythene sheets to make shelter or the protect from rain . even poor ppl use it to make slums . they attach a sheet in bamboo and they bury half of that bamboo stick inside the ground and by arranging 4 of them like this in a square area they make a bamboo frame. then as i said they attach sheet and make temporary home but they live there for years.

Q: Would it be worth forwarding the offer to the client? Is the difference that substantial?: You don't want that. If he offers 3.5 instead of the required 3, that is a different story. Otherwise he should give you more material thickness to provide an equivalent R of 3. Yes, the difference can be substantial and I wouldn't forward it to the client. The smaller the R value of the entire roof sandwich the larger the difference it makes. Like the change from 5 mpg to 4 mpg is a 25% worsening in fuel economy, but a change from 100 mpg to 99 mpg is 1%. It will mess up the heating/cooling of the building and the mechanical systems might be inadequate. They could save money on the roof and complain how the building is too hot/too cold or the mechanical systems never shut off and their energy bills are too high.

Q: what action should a plumber take?????: struggling to understand your question! are you talking about a storage tank? what is the problem with the insulation? if it is in the way move it but insulation under a tank is not a problem the tank will need to be insulated any way!

Q: I have 4 pieces (about 50 sq ft) of odd shaped polystyrene foam insulation between 3&quot; and 4&quot; thick. it's leftover from installing a flat roof. creative ideas anyone?: Use it as insulation in the basement. Place it under the floor along your rim joists above the foundation

Q: Our end unit 1940&quot;s row house has an old leaking bitumen roof . The water entry point can not be found so a replacement seems the way to go. A roofer suggested a replacement using Firestone 180, 1/2 inch fiberboard insulation covered with fiberglass base sheet, bitumen for flashing and fibered aluminum coating on wall coping . It's all Greek to be but fiberboard insulation and flashing material ? Should I be concerned?: We use kingspan insulation, marine grade plyboard , 3/4 inch, and yes you can use bitumen as flashing. I hope i am not being condescending, but the flashing is the bit that goes from the roof and a little way up the wall and is then "pointed" into the bricks, thus forming a water-proof barrier.

Q: Rather than waste that heat on sunny days during the heating season, can it be used to help heat the home? Otherwise it would just passively be vented out. Has anyone done this? Is it a good idea or not?: should work, heat pumps pull the heat out of the air,

Q: I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (&gt;15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2&quot; thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3&quot; galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?: The only downside I see is your miscalculation about the length of the screws need. Lets see, 2 inches of insulation, 3/4 inches of furring, leaves you with a solid 1/4 inch of bite, and we all know that the first 1/4 inch of the screw is meant for piercing, not holding. So plan on 4 inch screws, because you still need to penetrate the old roof and bite the structure. Don't forget to plan your drip edge which now will have 2+ inches of roof thickness to carry the rain water over into your gutter.

Q: I am in the process of having a new roof installed. What are my options in regards to improving its' insulating properties?: If you have clear access to your rafters, the best insulation possible (after installing your vent baffles) is sprayed on foam. I didn't say polyurethane foam on purpose, as there is now a soy based foam available with exactly the same working and thermal characteristics as the petro-poly goop, with none of crude oil. But i digress. Sprayed on foam has the advantage of not only thermal insulation but it also seals everything that it comes in contact with, thus stopping any air movement, something that no fiberglass or extruded polyurethane could ever do. Industry experts are still debating this but, it looks like 1 inch of sprayed on foam (with it sealing qualities) does as much, if not more, than 3 1/2 inches of fiberglass and, foam will never sag or absorb moisture like glass does. Fill your rafter spaces and gloat to the neighbors when your bills come in. :)

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