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FAQ

How do I tell which wire is positive and which wire is negative on the door speakers and the rear speakers?

The one with stripe is negative.

In that chart it has 2 sections, one is maximum amps for chassis wiring and the other is maximum amps for power transmission. What is considered chassis wiring and what is considered power transmission?

Chassis wiring assumes each wire is routed separately, and power wiring assumes they are wired in a bundle. In chassis wiring the cooling of the conductors is better, because they are all exposed directly to air. In a bundle, some of the wires are not in direct contact withe the air.

i got a fi bl 15dual 2 subwoofer. im wiring it down to 1 ohm.now for the problem. lets say im wiring the positive terminals together. am i suppose to wire it all with positive wire or can i also use negative copper wire? i used two positive wires and one negative wire to hook up the three positive terminals. is this bad? do i need to make all of them positive silver wires?

Wire is just wire. It alone does not know positive from negative. However, some great problems could lie below the surface. It really depends on what is on the other end of the wire. There may be some problems associated with not following a good wiring practice such as: Creating a short circuit and blowing the amp Putting one of the two speakers out of polarity with the other resulting in lower or no acoustical output. The best practice is to ALWAYS relate the positive or PLUS terminal with the wire with the same designation with the speaker terminal. That way, if you have to do any trouble shooting, you can trace is back and know without a doubt what is connected to what.

I have a 2000 Mazda 626, and I am replacing the factory stereo with a Sony CDX-GT66UPW, I tried replacing it earlier and had to cut off the end plastic pieces for the original stereo wires and stripped the wires, So now I am trying to match up the wires from the new stereo with the old colors, But I don't know what color goes to what on the mazda? Can anyone give me a color coded diagram for the wiring?

In okorder /... There's a pretty good chance you'll need to replace a blown fuse in the vehicle's fuse box, too, especially if you cut all the wires together instead of one at a time.

I know that a fuse is connected to the live wire. And I was wondering; since a fuse and the circuit breaker are similar, would the circuit breaker also be placed so that both terminals of the circuit breaker are connected to the live wire? If not, would it be connected to a wire that connects a live wire and neutral wire?

The neutral wire is never connected to to a circuit breaker or fuse. It measures the current passing through the hot wire and opens if the current gets to high. Although the same amount of current passes through the neutral wire, an open breaker or fuse in that wire would let the load be connected to the hot wire but not to ground so you could bet shocked from it.

So I customized my guitar, and now I need to wire it. i have a pre-wired pickguard but I don't know how to actually hook it up. There's 3 wires. I have 2 humbuckers, 1 singlecoil, 1 tone, and 1 volume. All I know is that one wire gets soldered to the back where the springs are and another wire goes to the input jack. But there's a 3rd wire and I don't know where it goes. I don't even know which wire goes to what. Please don't post a diagram because it doesn't help. I think the wire colors are white, blue, and yellow. Please help!

Matt, okorder /... The fact that the pickguard is pre-wired should make things a little simpler...in fact, if you post a picture, I could help. Without that, I can only make an educated guess. You said there are 3 wires? Well, I suspect that 2 of them are grounds. If you have a multi-tester, you can easily verify which of the two wires go to ground. Just touch one probe to the body of the volume or tone control, and the other to the wire. If you have continuity, it's a ground wire. If you follow them back to the source, both ground wires are probably soldered to the body of a volume or tone control. One ground goes to the bridge/spring assembly. The other should go to the output jack. You'll notice that the jack has two connections. One is the hot wire and the other is ground. You'll need to figure out which of the two wires is the ground, and which connection it goes to on the output jack. Look at the diagram in my link. See the wire that comes from the middle of volume control? That's the hot wire and it should connect to the part of the jack that contacts the tip of the plug at the end of your guitar cable. The other wire connects to the part of the jack that contacts the sleeve of the plug. If you look closely at the jack, you should be able to figure out which connection goes to the long prong. The prong is the one that makes contact with the tip of the plug....and this is where your hot (+) wire goes. Ground (-) to bridge-------------→ Ground (-) to output jack-------→ body/sleeve of jack Signal (+) to output jack--------→ tip connection of jack

installing whelen car strobe lights.the directions say to wire the power to the battery with wire that can hold 125% of the power

Go with a guage bigger than the wire harness on the strobe. If you go too small of a wire it could put too much of a load on the wire. That will cause it to heat up and can catch fire if it gets hot enough. Like what sparky said, use a relay. I installed neons and strobes in my car using 10ga wire relays, and a power distribution block.

Okay, I just started tearing into my partially finished basement of the home I bought last week. Some of the electrical wiring is interesting to say the least.I have a junction box in the basement. One wire connects directly to the panel, another out to an outlet, and the third goes up and out to half the house. All of this is 14/2 except the quot;thirdthat runs up and out. This is wired with 14/3 but the third wire isn't connected to anything. Should I be concerned considering every outlet in the house works?

My entire House is wired with 14/3....and besides the previous owner doin it all by him/her self and making a few of the neutral lines live and vice-versa, everything works, if the third wire isnt connected to an outlet or another junction, etc., the last owner just removed an outlet or junction, and didnt cut the third wire(im assuming its a live wire) and as long as its not connected in your panel, you should be alright to either cut it and forget, or to maybe take out the 14/3 wire entirely, but if its still connected to your panel, try to find out where it went to and if it can be removed and not disrupt power flow elsewhere, as long as all the fuses are on, you can just test it and if it has no power, cut it, but always test for power, and from my lovely wiring mess, try connecting it with what should be a live(red or black) and what should be a neutral(White), just in case they aint.....else youll be zapped, and that aint to fun Or You can add a new outlet(s) if its still connected in your panel, or just make sure to cap it off, and remember the tape, it seems useless, but it prevents future problems if the cap becomes loose