voltage up to 35KV underground XLPE copper armoured Power cable
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 20000 m²/month
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Specifications
underground XLPE copper armoured Power cable: 1.Standards: IEC60502, GB12706, BS7889 2.Voltage:Up to 35KV 3.Insulation: XLPE
Product Description
voltage up to 35KV underground XLPE copper armoured Power cable:
1.Construction of underground XLPE copper armoured Power cable:
Stranded and compacted cooper/aluminium conductor
Inner semi conductor
XLPE/pvc insulation
Outer semi conductor
Water blocking semi conducting tape
Copper wire screen plus copper tape
Polyester tape
PVC inner sheath
Steel tape armored
PVC outer sheath
2.Standard of underground XLPE copper armoured Power cable:
IEC60502, IEC60228
3.construction of the power cable for different voltage grade
1. low voltage cable power cable
Low voltage (0.6/1 kv)
single core or multi-core
copper or aluminium conductor
pvc inusulation
steel tape armored or galvanized steel wire armored or unarmored
pvc outer sheath
power cable.
2. medium voltage cabel power cable
Voltage grade is up to 35kv,
cross-section area can be up to 1000 sqmm (copper or aluminiun conductor).
Conductor long-time operating temperature is 90 degrees.
In short circuit, conductor highest temperature should be not more than 250 degrees.
1kv-35 kv
multi-cores
copper or aluminium conductor
xlpe insulation
copper tape or copper wire screen
galvanized steel wire armored
pvc or pe sheath
power cable
3. high voltage cable power cable
High voltage (35kv~220kv)
copper or aluminium conductor
xlpe insulation
metal sheath (lead or corrugated aluminium)
hdpe or pvc outer sheath power cable.
Laying conditions: for lyaing under ground with large different altitude, be able to bear external machanical force and moderate pulling force.
4.More other details of underground XLPE copper armoured Power cable:
Type | Description | Application |
VV | Copper conductor ,PVC insulated ,PVC sheathed power cable | Used for installing indoors, in tunnel or cable trench,unable to bear extermal mechanical forces. Single core cable is not permissible to lay in magnetic duct |
VLV | Aluminium conductor ,PVC insulated ,PVC sheathed power cable | |
VY | Copper conductor, PVC insulated, PE sheathed power cable | |
VLY | Aluminium conductor ,PVC insulated ,PE sheathed power cable | |
VV22 | Copper conductor ,PVC insulated ,steel tape armoured ,PVC sheathed power cable | Used for Installing indoors, in cable trench or direct in ground ,able to bear external mechanical forces, but unable to bear pulling force |
VLV22 | Aluminium conductor ,PVC insulated ,steel tape armoured ,PVC sheathed power cable | |
VV23 | Copper conductor ,PVC insualted ,steel tape armoured ,PE sheathed power cable | |
VLV23 | Alunminium conductor ,PVC insulated ,steel tape armoured ,PE sheathed power cable | |
VV32 | Copper conductor, PVC insulated, steel wire armoured,PVC insulated power cable | Used for intalling indoors, in cable or direct in ground ,able to bear external mechanical forces, but unable to bear large pulling forces |
VLV32 | Aluminium conductor, PVC insulated ,steel tape armoured ,PVC sheathed power cable | |
VV33 | Copper conductor, PVC insulated steel wire armoured , PE sheathed power cable | |
VLV33 | Aluminium conductor , PVC insulated , streel wire armoured ,PE sheathed power cable |
Pictures:
- Q:i bought a car from some guy.he had 2 amps but he took out onehe had the power cable running from one amp to the other. i just recently bought another amp and i was wondering if its safe to do this.he said it was working fine.he was powering 2 10 subwoofers.thats what im planning to do
- it is safebut not the best method it really depends on the guage of the wire.best to have a single large gauge running to a distribution block then a wire for each amp comming out of the block to were the amps are. blocks are fairly cheap (usually less than 20 bucks) and saferplus you get better power flow and 1 amp is not sucking all the power before it gets to the other
- Q:Please, its urgent. Is it possible to use another wire? I don't have money btw.
- Troll patrol a brilliant answer as far as humour goes. Your computer would normally have spare power leads in it in case you want to add other drives. if not then try taking one from your CD rom and plugging it to your hard drive. Only problem here is your system may boot from the cd rom.
- Q:When doing competition, is there a rule where your battery in the back can't be bigger than the one in the front? Are Monster Cables as good as they perceive to be???? I.E. their 400 series cables that are wound in different arrays to optimize each frequency out put? Can a Power cable actually provide more efficiency if constructed right, once again, their 400 series?Subwoofers being 1000 RMS but only getting 500, will running them at their RMS make a significant difference?
- I'm not 100% sure but I think that doesnt matter. What matters is the amount of batteries you have. There is a significant difference between 500 to 1000 watts. But it depends on what enclosure is being used that makes it louder...much louder in some cases.
- Q:i have an amp with an 80a fuse i figure i shoud use a power cable with a 100a inline fuse what guagee should i use? also can i get two 8 guage wires with 50a inline fuses both to the ampthanks guys
- I also use an 2 channel amplifier with an 80amp fuse on board (I'm running two of them actually). If you are only running the one amplifier, 4 gauge cable is a safe option. If you're going to be running more amps, go 0 gauge. The only time you'd look at running multiple power cables from the battery is if your audio application demands it (like SPL cars, that run anything in excess of 4 amplifiers with MEGA continuous running power and also running multiple batteries at that, too). I don't think you're going that far, so the single run would be sufficient. From your 4 gauge cable, run a distribution block with however many points of 4 gauge cable running to your other amps. Hope this helps you :)
- Q:trying to install new amplifier; running cable from battery through firewall to the trunk; done on several cars before; looking for advice or best practices...
- if you look under the hood, facing the cars windshield, the far right corner against the firewall, there's a dip in the sheet metal. if you drill there at the lowest point, the hole will come out behind and a little above your brake pedal. run it through there , under the side trim. not only will this seperate power from rca wires (eliminating ground noise) but it will be easy to run. if you want a professional job, take out your seats (all of em) and run it under the carpet, but i'm sure you have to remove the center console. my buddy ran the wire under the car and drilled through the floor and ran it under the rug but that is such a bad idea because if the wire corrodes from weather you will have a fire.
- Q:can we use welding cable to hook up amp in our car?rated 200amp
- There is no need for a 200 amp cable. most of the time 75 to 100 amps is more than enough. Just go to the local car audio store and pick up a amp kit. (Depending on amp size depends on price) The local Wal-Mart sales them as well. You'll spend between $25-$100 for a good amp kit. Amp Kit 1 power wire 1 ground wire 1 set of RCA for audio from sterio to amp 1 fuse.
- Q:i want to use a 120 vac extention cord wire for the power cable to my amp, is this safe? extention cords have a heavier gage than the wire in radio shack and such and is much cheaper. i dont see why this would be a problem considering car batteries are only 12 volts vs. 120 volt extention cord raiting
- HAAAAAA HAAAA HAAAA! No really, come on! Yes this will work. As long as the current required doesn't overload the wire. Meaning that you will have to have a heavy enough guage wire to handle the load. Otherwise,,,,,meltdown. Now I would highly discourage the use of home electrical wire for the purpose of car audio. You need a good clean, true source of power to feed your amps. It's your system, but the weakest link will always rear it's ugly head when you least expect it. My advice.....Drop some cash and get the right stuff the first time. Otherwise you WILL be doing it over again.
- Q:I have been given a Toshiba flat screen tv - the product type is 20VL44G however the power cable has been lost. Does anyone know where I can get a replacement from as I have Googled this and cannot find anything? I am in the UK, thank you all.
- If the cable normally fits into a socket on the tv, then you need to describe the socket to us and measure it if possible.
- Q:even though it lights, its not so bright. its little dim but cpu is not at all turning on, its silent...
- CPUs don't 'light'. nothing ain't - nothing is not - everything is (that's what you really are saying). The power light may 'light', but if there is no CPU function, no power is going through the CPU. Probably a bad PSU (Power Supply Unit). Change it (cheap).
- Q:will I be able to work this out without buying something extra? and if so what do I need to buy?
- Your power supply should have the cable it needs. It has a 6+2-Pin so that you can snap it together to form an 8 pin.
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voltage up to 35KV underground XLPE copper armoured Power cable
- Loading Port:
- China main port
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 1000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 20000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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