I. CEMENT STANDARD
1.Vietnam standard (TCVN)
- Quality of Cement as per TCVN 6260 - 2009
2.European standard (EN)
- Certificate I -EN 197-1.2000- CEM II 42,5 R
- Certificate II - En 197-1.2000 CEM II 42,5N
- Certificate III - EN 197-1.2000 CEM I 42,5R
3.American standard (ASTM)
- ASTM C150 TYPE-1
- ASTM C1157 TYPE- GU
- ASTM C1157 TYPE- HE
II. SPECIFICATIONS FOR ORIDINARY PORTLAND CEMENT AS PER EN 197-1:2000/CEM II 42.5
Loss on Ignition, (LOI)
Physical and Mechanical Properties
- Retained content on sieve 75mm
Time of setting
- Initial set
- Final set
- Q:need help with cement floor repair.?
- I would start with preventing the floor from further settelment. once your base is secure you can work on the crack that is there. Hard to advise on how to prevent without knowing more info. Depending on how large the crack is, you want to fill it and seal it. Larger cracks can be filled with a foam backer rod material (up to half inch depending on the backer rod you buy) and there are many types of crack fillers. before using a crack filler, make sure you get any loose debris out as that will hinder bonding. This type of job is all about prep work and prevention. quick solutions will only result in further cracking in the future.
- Q:How to mix portland limestone cement?
- There is no real set amount of water. I always trickle some water in it and mix. If it is too dry, add more water. You want the cement to be about the consistency of slightly thicker than Catsup.
- Q:what's the difference between cement and mortor mix?
- Mortar is a material used in masonry to fill the gaps between blocks in construction. The blocks may be stone, brick, breeze blocks (cinder blocks), etc. Mortar is a mixture of sand, a binder such as cement or lime, and water and is applied as a paste which then sets hard. Mortar can also be used to fix, or point masonry when the original mortar has washed away. Cement is in all mortor
- Q:Help on Cement Pricing?
- I presume you want concrete, and not cement... I use a cheat method of figuring this, others may object. But a round object can be figured very close to accurate by figuring it like it's a square, and then subtract 1/5 from the result. For example, your 20' circle, figure 20' x 20' = 400 - 80 = 320' of concrete approx. There's 27 feet in a yard, so 320 divided by 27 = 11.85 yards. We'll round this up to 12 yards, and estimate the concrete delivered at $110 a yard, for an estimated total concrete cost of 12 x $110 = $1320. That's my guess.
- Q:Is there a solvent for plumbers cement?
- Yes, it is a type of pipe dope (thread sealer). There are joint and gasket sealers sold world-wide. Hercules, Tap-con, Dope Pro and etc. all have sold this type of product. The older ones ALWAYS dried to a cement like seal. There is no solvent available for this issue. Unfortunately, if an old version was used, you only have 2 options available. 1. You can use your torch to heat and loosen the product form the valve. The real problem here is that if you are using the type of valve you posted in the picture, you run the great risk of permanently ruining the valve anyway. 2. Simply cut behind the valve and solder in a new one. Use the tape thread sealer and off you go. This is BY FAR the best option. Write to me if you have any questions. I'll be happy to help anytime. EDIT: Bill, Here's the issue. The pipe dope usually remains somewhat flexible for a long time. However, penetrating oil will not do the job. If you have a Monkey wrench, vice grip or a slip wrench (aka Channel) you have a good chance. You can heat the joint with a hair dryer. This may soften it enough. Hold the valve firm, with one of the above in one hand, and loosen the nut with the other. Vice grips work best to hold the valve steady. There are other options if this fails to work for you. One is to cut the feed line, and splice a new one on (using compresion fittings or a pipe splice). The best option is to turn the water off to the valve, cut the pipe below/behind it, and solder a new one on. If you are worried about soldering, buy a tool and die thread maker (inexpensive), create new thread and screw a new valve into place. If you are inexperienced at this, the soldering option is best. Vote for me, and feel free to write again should you have any questions. The return mail option did not work.
- Q:how much is a bag of cement?
- for a 96 lb. bag of cement (not concrete) it will be close to 10.00 with the tax...
- Q:what weighs more? cement or sand?
- I guess your talking about dry? For equivalent volume cement is heavier than sand.
- Q:Why was the development of portland cement important?
- We added sand, rock and water to cement to make a boat ramp, diving board platform, a seawall secured with pilings that went across two lots that included a patio and boat dock. We used different concrete mixtures since the seawall was poured in a form with reinforced steel that was in the water. The cement was poured through a large plastic tube. The pilings also had a plastic tube which we had water running through to help get them into the ground. And on one the learning channels I remember that the Autobahns has held up better than our roads because it had a deeper foundation, I believe it was 2 inches deeper. I imagine that there are different mixtures for concrete depending on the purpose it is for and the weather. This is from 45 years ago memories, so check it out.
- Q:Roofing with modified bitumen base sheet and cement only?
- It is better to get the estimation form local company that has valid license so you can get guaranteed work.See local listings like homeguard to get the quotation and written warranty so this headache is solved permanently.
- Q:What is the most common cement used in concrete?
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