• Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX- S6523 System 1
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX- S6523 System 2
  • Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX- S6523 System 3
Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX- S6523

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX- S6523

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
115.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glazed Porcelain Tile CMAX- S6523 is one of the popular colors in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor and wall for apartment, villa, as well as other public areas, due to its unique antique feel image and texture. The glazed porcelain floor tile is wildly used in Europe, North America and Middle East.  

 

Product Features

 

  Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile

   Grade AAA available only

   Mainly the basic size is 600*600mm, which could be cut into 30*60mm, 30*30mm, 15*60mm.

  Strict quality control system for monitoring water absorption rate, color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, slip-resistance, abrasion resistance as well as packing.

  More competitive prices in China supplying market

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast production arrangement

  OEM service could be offered based on the actual requirement

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for the whole purchasing process.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1300 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.5%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.5%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Slip Resistance: 0.5

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 840 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1209.6m2/20’Fcl

  For 300x600mm, 8pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 840 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1209.6 m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX- S6523

Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile 600x600mm CMAX- S6523

 

FAQ

 

 

1.    For Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile, what is the difference from polished porcelain tile?

—— For Glazed Porcelain Floor Tile, there is a special glaze layer on the tile surface, which makes the surface feel matt or rough, while the surface of polished porcelain tile is glossy and smooth.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is one 20’ container. For those models whose production could be arranged frequently, we could mix 2 or 3 models in one container.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton. If the order quantity is over 5 containers, we could print the carton of client’s design for the final packing.

Q:What are the benefits of installing tile in kitchen and bathroom or would linoleum be better? Also, how hard is it to install tile floors. I‘ve had friends who‘ve had no experience and they did it and did a good job. I am just a bit skeptical of doing it myself but just wondered if there are videos out there that shows you how to do it.
lINOLEUM CAN BE A PAIN IN THE YOU KNOW WHAT. RESALE VALUE I WOULD HAVE TO SAY CERAMIC FLOOR TILE WITHOUT A DOUBT. FIRST LOOK AT YOU FLOOR ..DOES IT LOOK LEVEL FROM SIDE TO SIDE AND LENGTH WISE WITH NO DIPS IN THE FLOOR ANYWHERE. iF YOU ANSWERD YES THEN CHANCES ARE YOU WONT NEED A FLOOR LEVELING CRETE MIX. yOU WILL HAVE TO PULL UP WHATEVER IS DOWN THERE NOW..GET IT TO THE SUB FLOOR OR THE CONCRETE..DEPENDING WHAT YOUR HOUSE IS BUILT ON..IN EITHER CASE YOU CAN USE THE TILE. yOU NEED TO LAY MESH DOWN OVER THE FLOOR. THIS IS THE BACKING THAT WILL HOLD AND SECURE THE TILE TO THE FLOOR. ALWAYS START WITH A FULL PIECE OF TILE IN THE DOORWAY OF YOUR BATHROOM. WORK YOUR WAY TO THE BACK..THATS WHERE YOU WANT ALL THE TILE THAT GETS CUT TO END. THAT WAY YOU HAVE ALL FULL PIECES WHERE IT COUNTS. IF YOU DON'T HAVE A WET SAW..IT'S FINE. LAY ALL OF YOUR FULL PIECES THE FIRST DAY.DONT WALK ON THE FLOOR FOR A DAY . THEN THE NEXT DAY IS GOING TO BE ALL THE CUT TILES U NEED TO INSTALL. YOU CAN GET A CHEAP TILE CUTTER FOR UNDER 15 DOLLARS AT HOME DEPOT FOR ALL OF YOUR STRIGHT CUTS. IF YOU HAVE A TILE THAT NEEDS TO BE NOTCHED OR A ' L ' CUT..MARK ..MARK THE TILE WHERE IT NEEDS TO BE BUT..WRITE ON THE BACK OF THE TILE WITH EITHER NUMBER OR LETTERS SO U REMEMBER WHERE IT GOES..TRANSFER THE SAME NUMBER OR LETTER TO THE FLOOR SO U DONT FORGET. TAKE ALL THE PIECES TO BE CUT TO HOME DEPOT..THEY HAVE A WET SAW THERE ANS WILL CUT THEM FOR YOU. DONT TRIL TO TILE AROUNDF THE TOILET. IT WILL LOOK LIKE CRAP. **** THE WATER VALVE OFF BEHIND THE TOILET.LIFT THE TOILET OUT AND SET IT IN THE BATHTUB ON A OLD BLANKET THAT U DONT WANT. TILE UNDER THE TOILET AND GET CLOSE TO THE FLANGE AS U CAN..U MAY HAVE TO RAISE THE FLANGE TO THE HEIGHT OF THE NEW TILE FLOOR. CHANCES ARE YOU WONT. JUST MAKE SURE THE FLANGE ISNT BELOW THE NEW TILE HEIGHT. THIS SOUNDS REALLY HARD, BUT IT REALLY ISN'T. JUST TAKES TIME. GOOD LUCK
Q:For a while now I have just used paper towels as a substrate for my 2 leopard geckos and I recently have been researching slate tiles as a substrate and I want to give it a try due to the positive feedback i‘ve seen on message boards and care sheets. Now, I have 2 10 gallon tanks that I would like to use but details are lacking from an online source.1. What measurements should i ask for when getting a piece of slate cut(for a generic 10 gallon tank)?2. Is there a certain thickness the slate should be for proper heat disbursement?3. How warm should the slate be allowed to get if i‘m monitoring it with a thermometer? I know I could measure out the tank myself, but I was just curious if there was a size that fit better than what a measurement would give me. Thank you for the feedback.
I use slate tiles for my 3 geckos tanks. They work great. 1. A 10 gallon tank is generally 20in X 12in. Because not all the tiles are the same size I would go with cutting the tile slightly smaller to make sure they fit. So maybe 19 1/2 and 11 1/2. You will probably need 2 tiles for each tank so you could cut them anyway you want ( 10 and 10, 12 and 8, 6 and 6, etc. You can fill the gaps with sand later on. The 12 X12 tiles could be slightly smaller, slightly larger, or longer then they say. 2. No really, though you do want them to be fairly even in the tank. Most of my tiles are about 1/4 inch but I also have a layer of sand under the tiles so they are level even if the tiles are different thicknesses. 3. You want them to be warm but not too hot. Because leopard geckos use belly heat you'll want them about 88-90F. I would not let the tiles get over 95F though.
Q:How does the tile stick up? The benefits of stickers? What is the difference between sticky and wet stickers? Do i want to be thin
Dry paste only refers to the floor tiles, wall tiles are not posted, dry paste is the first layer of dry mortar, and then in the floor tile on a layer of cement paste, paste on the dry mortar, this paste the floor Brick deformation is small, wet paste is on the ground directly with cement mortar paste floor tile, this paste is easy to deformation. If you want to stick thin, use wet stickers.
Q:On those tiles, can you skate on them with ice skates. I was thinking about getting them but I wasn‘t sure. Last but not least, is there a different kind of tiles that are cheaper. Thanks!
I think I understand your question, the tiles you can't skate on unless you have roller hockey skates, it's called sport court. I play roller hockey and ice and the tiles for roller SUCK! If I were you I'd just go fin a certain kind of paint I can't recall the name of the brand, but paint the garrage floor with it and you can skate in there and stick handle if you have enough room. Hope this helps
Q:What kind of tiles good? How to look?
Good quality tiles it is thick, low water absorption, high wear resistance, but also to no pollution, no radiation.
Q:I‘m installing 13x13 floor tile on a slab. Any tips on how to do it right
If your not overly familiar with doing tile a diagonal isn t the easiest to start on. Lay out and proper tools are a big help in your preplanning. Right size trowel and large enough wet saw and had cutter is a must. Get the longest straight site line and split the room in 1/2 with a chalk line. Lay tile back to the wall and figure the size of pc(pcs) you need. You can cut a few of these pcs as a starting point. Knowing you split the room you should be equal when you get to the other side. A perfect straight edge will help keep your lines straight. Use this on all sides as you build out from that wall and lay as though your doing a straight lay just that your on a 45 degree. Or if you are doing an open ended area , you can cut several tiles in 1/2 and work back. A bit trickier but overall look is better. Don t cut tiles directly in 1/2, you must cut just off center if this is a starting point. Very hard to do and takes experience. Any specific questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:I am a big fan of tile in homes. I really love tile flooring and tiles in shower stalls, as it looks really nice and feels good on the feet lol. Is there any way to tell the difference between a porcelain and ceramic tile by looking at it after it is already installed? Friends of mine have tile in their kitchen on the floor, and I would like to be able to tell the difference by looking at it from an already installed view. This would also help for visiting other homes with tile, to better understand the difference in look and feel.
Once installed, no there is no way to tell the difference between ceramic and a porcelain.. Side views at a visible cut or whole pc is the only way to tell for sure. Pull up a in floor heat register ( if there is a forced air system) to see... A properly installed tile (ceramic or porcelain) will last the same , so porcelains ( unless a true porcelain and there is a major difference between a trus porcelain and the glazed porcelains most people sell) are over sold to the public. Both are good tile so don t over look ceramics. Any questions e mail me through my avatar. GL
Q:This tile in my kitchen became loose a while ago and today I decided to try to fix it but not sure what to do. As you can see from the image link, a fair amount of concrete has come off with the tile. I suppose I can‘t re-use this tile. I have a spare one available. What I need to know is what product do I use to fill in the hole? Should I try to get out all the old concrete stuff first?
Sockies, this is actually an easy repair. The first responder suggested liquid nails. Don't even consider that. If you have a matching tile available, use that in lieu of trying to clean off the tile. First off, it looks like the tile came loose based the non-continuous thinset on the bottom of the tile. If that is the case (which is probably the cause), you want to fill in under the tile with thinset, so the entire area where the tile sets is filled solid from the sub-floor to approx. 1/8 below the bottom of the surrounding tiles. You should remove the existing thinset where the tile will set. You can do this with a brick or masonry chisel. If a little remains at the perimeter, that will be fine. Trying to remove all of it flush with the surrounding tiles may result in loosening additional tiles. You don't want that. Allow about 5-6 hours for that to set (harden) enough to set the tile. You don't make it flush because you will spread additional thinset on the underside of the tile to set it. Use a 3/8 notched trowel to spread the thinset on the entire surface of the bottom of the tile. Place the tile keeping an even spacing from the tile to the surrounding tiles You want the grout joints to be the same size all around. Press down over the entire surface of the tile to ensure it embeds completely and is flush with the surrounding tiles. Allow it to set overnight and remove any thinset that will impede the grout from obtaining 1/4 depth. It's not necessary to make the grout the full depth of the tile. It's imperative to remove any loose grout prior to grouting. That's it. I suggest buying thinset that comes in the bag that you mix with water. Don't make it too soupy when you mix it. The thinset and grout need to (what's called) slake during the mixing process. It simply means you mix it, allow it to set 5 minutes and remix it, and it's ready to use. The bag will have those instructions on the back.
Q:I thought that bathroom floor tiles were thicker than the bathroom wall tiles, is this right?
Yes but I would not recommend it. The bathrooms in the house we just bought have the same tile in the shower, walls and on the floor. The tiles are okay on the walls and in the shower but they are horrible on the floor. They are chipped , cracked and very tough to keep clean. Floors need a more durable tile.
Q:and didn‘t seal the floor or grout. Now they are dirty, how can I clean them so they look new, then seal it? I have grout sealer, do I need to seal the tiles also, they look to be sort of porous?
either the tile cleaner or steam cleaner already mentioned previously will work fine. if you have a porous tile such as travertine or tumbled stone, it will need to be sealed as well as the grout. depending on traffic and the brand of sealer, i would recommend resealing it every couple of years. if stains can penetrate, so can moisture. moisture is unsealed tiles worst enemy.

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