Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile 600 XD6A536

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Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1152 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month
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Basic Information:

 

Tile Type

Full Polished Glazed Porcelain Tile

Certificate

ISO13006, ISO9001

Finish

Nano Finish

Size

600x600mm

Water Absorption Rate

Below 0.5%

Packing

Carton + Wooden Pallets

Usage

Floor and wall

Other Choices

many designs, size, colors

Delivery Time

15~20 days after 30% deposit received

 

Features:

 

l  Available in many designs, specifications and assorted color, unique designs and exclusive quality

l  Used for indoor & outdoor wall and floor decorations, as well as Stair Case Product;

l  Easy to install, anti-dust, washable, acid-proof, alkali-proof, durable

l  Material: glazed porcelain

l  Customized sizes available according to clients’ requirements

l  The full polished glazed porcelain tile is widely used for interior house flooring, hotel lobby flooring, shopping mall as well as other public sites.

l  Vivid stone texture and vein bring our decoration the natural stone beauty with much lower cost, easier quality control and easier decoration proceeding.

l  Advanced glazing technology to make sure the tile surface beauty vivid and clean, via ink-jetting or silk printing.

l  We could go with OEM model, making 2nd production based on clients requirement;

l  We could offer flexible service on shipment and better support on payment term;

l  Our quality guarantee is based on the strict production procedure, quality controlling on the shade, straightness as well as white degree.

 

 

Q:I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?
Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.
Q:I was clowning around with my son and I accidentally knocked over a table and chipped a tile. It's about a quarter size chip.You can actually see the dark bottom part of the tile so its kinda deep. I was wondering if I can fix it without replacing it. What do I need? By the way, I blamed on my 4 year old !!!!!!!!! THX 4 ur help!
First of all, own up to the accident and apologize to your son and your wife! If you are lucky, you may be able to find some grout to match, that you can fill in the hole with. Go to your local tile store and see if they might have a Custom Blend Grout Chart or a ProSpec Grout chart that you can take home and see what color comes closest to the tile. Or you could try either brand in a sanded caulk in a tube. The only other choice is to replace the tile, which generally is hard to match! Or to place a piece of furniture or a rug, over the spot. That may not be best, depending on what part of the floor the spot is at!
Q:im looking for bright green bathroo tiles, as im redoing my bathroom , but i can‘t seem to find them anywhere please help!!!!!!
American Oleans Satin Glo ( matte finish) and Satin Brights bright , shiny ) line had some bright green tiles . Also Interceramic and Dal Tile had a line of them. At one time Florida Tile had some too. Google all these manufactures and look at their lines. Each site will have a store locator to find a realtor neatest you by putting in your zip code. If your looking for something as an accent. Try to google Ocean Side Glass. They have a nice iridescent line of tile in greens also.. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
Q:Which is good for acid resistant tiles
Hao Ran acid-resistant ceramic tile is the main component of silica, the use of imported raw materials and imported color raw materials made by high temperature firing.
Q:Our new kitchen tile floor was grouted last Thursday (almost a week ago). They did a poor job removing grout from the tile surface - very rough ceramic tile. I‘ve washed and scrubbed, it is cemented on. On top of that I don‘t like the grout color.Nothing has been sealed. So I got some acid wash and a grout stain from Home Depot. The stain says the tile should have been sealed prior to using it, I dont understand why that is. So I dont stain the tile? I‘m afraid if I sealed the tile it would seal the grout, so seems like a bad idea.And the acid wash... is this going to ruin the grout itself? How careful do I need to be about not getting in on the grout? Unfortunately its a large area, kitchen and dining area. 12‘ x 30‘. I‘ll be scrubbing a long time.Any suggestions to make this easier?Thanks!
Wait a minute. If the tile is a natural stone, it should have been sealed prior to grouting to prevent the grout from seeping into the stone. If it's ceramic or porcelain tile, sealing is normally not required. When grouting, it is common practice to remove the excess grout as you go so the stuff doesn't build up and dry on the tile. This is what happened in your kitchen. Consult with your local tile supply or hardware store for the correct product, then use it exactly as directed. It is true that a vinegar solution will remove grout haze from tile, but if there are chunks of grout stuck to the tile you'll need to carefully remove them and then work on the spot with the vinegar. While it may be more work, I'd try the vinegar on a small area before using harsh chemicals. Now, you can buy grout stain that will work if the grout has not been sealed. If it has been recently sealed, you'll have a hard time with the stain. Good luck.
Q:I wanted to put ceramic tile over the linoleum (in good shape) in our bathroom (floor is concrete). Can I do this or do I need to remove all the linoleum? Thanks
Remove the linoleum. The adherence of your tile is only as good as the material it is bonded to. Linoleum (or more correctly, vinyl) is a poor base to lay tiles over. Remove the vinyl, scrape the concrete of any vinyl adhesive, and mop the floor with TSP. (Tri-sodium phosphate, found at most hardware stores) This will remove most substances from the concrete and create a better surface for your tile. Let the floor dry overnight before setting the tiles.
Q:how do i do the measuring and lay out on a 10 foot by 6 foot floor when laying the tiles diagonally?
A 10x6 room requires 60 square feet of tile to cover the floor. On a normal square to the walls pattern, I would order 10% more tile to cover waste. On a diagonal pattern, you will have more waste. I would order 15% to 20% more tile to cover waste. To set up to lay the tile, I start by picking the most obvious sight line in the room - maybe from the next room through the door and chalk a line perpendicular to the far wall along that sight line and parallel to the side wall. Then you chalk a line 45 degrees wall to wall through the center point of the center of the first line. This is your 45 degree pattern. Chalking a line wall to wall 90 degrees from the second chalk line through that same center point gives you your grid pattern to set your tile from. Ignore the first line - that was for reference only - line two and three are the lines you set your tile from. Set out tile dry with spacers to see if you like the effect. I will sometimes set out all of the whole tile possible in the room and walk around to see if it looks good. If it doesn't look right or you end up with too small pieces along the edges or in the doorways, you can move your initial start point and rechalk your lines.
Q:Please help me decide the right color to use. We are renovating our bathroom and I always wanted a navy blue or maroon toilet bowl. Today, I see a perfect navy blue/dark blue toilet bowl but I do not know what is the best color of tiles or walls should I use. We do not like white tiles or walls since it is really hard to maintain. My husband wanted a floor to ceiling wall tiles. Please advise.
I had a bathroom in a rental once that had peach paint. I didn't think I liked it. I put some mirrors on one wall so that there was less of it and then had a lot of plants and grew to like it. White is nice with peach and lots of lush foliage.
Q:I have a rental that currently has sheet vinyl in the kitchen that is in bad shape. I am considering putting in self adhesive floor tiles over the vinyl. I have installed similar flooring in a bathroom but used inexpensive tiles. It looked good, but the tiles tended to slide. I‘m thinking it was because I used bargain tiles rather than better quality.I just need comments as to longevity and problems you might have encoutered with self adhesive tiles. Also, do you have any particular brand or type you recommend?
I have used them for over 10 yrs now with NO PROBLEMS. Maybe your not taking the time to prep your floor and we all know the prep is very important. I personally would take that vinyl out and lay on your sub floor. As in any product if you take the time to read and follow their directions you'll be fine. I not only use this type of tile in my own home but clients too. I ripped out a nice ceramic tile in a doctors house and put this tile in its place, 2 baths and it's been 3 yrs now and no problems. good luck.
Q:What type, brand and or size ceiling tiles should be used in a commercial kitchen and bathroom
Kitchen Ceiling Tiles

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