Ductile Iron Gate Valve Non-Rising Stem of BS5163

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Non-rising resilient seated gate valves solve the problem in general gate valves such as leakage, rusting etc. and saves installation space. It is used widely in tap water industry, sewage treatment, shipping construction, petroleum, chemicals, food, pharmacy, textile, electric power, metallurgy and energy system's pipeline to adjust and shut off fluids.

l  Replaceable O-ring

l  Low torque operation

l  Rubber encapsulated wedge

l  Clockwise closing direction

l  Fusion bonded epoxy coated inside and outside



Body materials: Ductile Iron

Design standard: DIN3352 F5

Design pressure: PN10/PN16/PN25

Size: DN80mm-DN2000

Connect type: Flanged gate valve

Seal type: Resilient seated gate valve, EPDM+ Ductile Iron


Fusion bonded epoxy coated both on the interior as well as the exterior surfaces of the valve, flange surfaces are also fully epoxy coated, blue color.



Potable water, neutral liquids, irrigation, heating and chilled water, fire systems etc, in either above ground or buried service applications and requires minimal maintenance



This Ductile Iron Resilient Seated Gate Valve is fully compliant to DIN3352 F4. We have light weight type, heavy weight type and even middle weight type for your reference, and these three options design construction of ductile iron will offer a robust and durable extended life performance.


1-   Bolted bonnet, full bore: used for larger valves and higher pressure applications.

2-   Stem sealed with O-rings: realize zero leakage, could be replace under full pressure.

3-   Rubber encapsulated wedge: excellent elastic memory, ensure sealing effect.

4-   Blue fusion boned epoxy coated inside and outside: suitable for portable water.

5-   Working pressure from -1 to +16 and working temperature from -10 to +80°C



This valve is suitable for use in a wide range of applications including potable water, neutral liquids, irrigation, heating and chilled water, fire systems etc, in either above ground or buried service applications and requires minimal maintenance. This Resilient Seated Gate Valves have a rated working pressure of 16 Bar. The valves seal 100% leak tight. The waterway is clear, unobstructed and free from pockets. Resilient seated gate valves are fusion bonded epoxy coated both on the interior as well as the exterior surfaces of the valve, flange surfaces are also fully epoxy coated.



1-   OEM Factory : Professional manufacturer, clients from whole world.

2-   High Quality, Competitive Price: Custom is accepted.

3-   Complete Service: Long service Life, Fast delivery, Multilingual services.

4-   Certificates: ISO9001, CE, NSF, TS, WRAS.

5-   Low MOQ: Ready for providing the sample and producing some small orders.



Q: Are you manufacturer of trading company? Which kind of valves do you supply?

A: We are a professional manufacturer of butterfly valves, check valve, non-return valves, gate valves, Y-strainer and so on.


Q: Will you do inspection before shipment? Whether Third Party Inspection is available?

A: We have a professional engineer team, so we can offer you the most professional technical support. All valves are tested twice before and after hammer pin to ensure its perfect sealing property and to make sure every valve is ok before ex-factory. TPI is ok but the clients should bear all fees.


Q: What kind of package do you use for these valves?

A: Valves from DN80-DN1400 will be packed in wooden boxes, but valves above DN1400 will be in wooden pallets. If you need wooden boxes for above DN1400, the price may be more expensive.

Ductile Iron Gate Valve Non-Rising Stem of BS5163

Ductile Iron Gate Valve Non-Rising Stem of BS5163

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Q:i'm being charged $300 to replace a 75gallon water heater valve, is that too much?
What, just the valve? What valve? A stop valve in the supply or delivery line? Or the temperature and pressure valve? There's no way on God's green earth I'd ever fork over $300 for this job. I can do it myself in thirty minutes. The TP valve would take less than ten minutes. Granted I'm a handyman and I have a shopful of tools and 20 years experience. But back in the day, when I'd never done any maintenance work, I replaced my own water heater from start to finish and it only took a couple of hours. Unless there's something major going on that you're not disclosing to us, it sounds like a pretty serious overcharge. [edit] To answer your additional questions, I wouldn't pay that much to replace all three valves. The valves themselves aren't very expensive, and the only really difficult part of this entire operation is getting all the water under control to replace the drain valve. Something's going to get wet, and that tends to make homeowners annoyed and difficult customers. The TP valve is a simple wrench-in, wrench-out replacement. Water off, power off, drain below the level of the valve and out it comes. Control valve requires turning off the house's water, but less draining. Replacing the drain valve requires draining the entire heater but again it's a wrench-in, wrench-out job. Easy.
Q:automatic sprinkler valve problem?
It's hard to say exactly what's wrong without knowing what type of valves you have since different valves have different components. In any case, I'd start by checking that the bleed screw and/or handle (depending on type) and that the flow control screw or handle (again depends on what make/model you have) to make sure they are in good condition and properly set. Be careful when turning these screws or handles don't force them past the normal stopping points. If that all checks out, there may be some dirt or debris stuck in the valve that's not allowing the diaphragm to open all the way.
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If the pump doesn't come with any method to shut off one of the outlets, you can combine both outlets into one by using some tubing and a T-valve. You can also use an air valve and some tubing on the unneeded outlet to dead-end it, though that method may be a bit more stressful on the pump.
Q:Are There Other Oils For Valves On The Trumpet Unstuck?
Unscrew the the valve cap on the main suitable decrease than the button. attempt to softly pull the valve out. you could might desire to paintings it backward and forward until it loosens up you could upload some oil around the the sting of the valve cylinder. as quickly as you have all 3 valves out sparkling all the debris off of the valve, you ought to use an sos pad to get a number of the heaver stuff off. Wipe each ingredient off with in straight forward terms somewhat of lighter fluid and a sparkling rag. sparkling the valve bores including your snake. Stuff a rag down each hollow to get the stuff the snake loosened up. Reoil the valves and the cylinders and reassemble.
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I would wager that those losses, or pressure drops, are due to entrance and exit losses through the valve. Calculate the losses yourself. The mechanism is simply friction and geometry. Perhaps the losses are not what some agency says they are. Physical tests can be used should such phenomena govern costly criteria and baselines.
Q:Pitted Exhaust valve on generator, can I just replace valve?
You can replace just the valve. You should lap the valve to the seat though. That requires a lapping compound and some way to spin the valve. This is done before installing the spring. Lapping ensures that the valve is seated and won't leak. In the old days I have used comet cleanser and a small suction cup chucked in my drill. Worked fine. I know that is not the correct method but it worked and my mower ran for several years after that. Auto zone may have a valve lapping tool that they will loan out and you can buy some real lapping compound to do a better job. I always enjoyed getting the job done with what I had on hand. Good luck.
Q:Does anyone know where the erg valve on a 2001 isuzu rodeo is located?
i'm no longer attentive to that style. some cam sensors are on the front of the engine. some are under the valve conceal. My advice could be, to call the save that offered you the sensor and ask them or call a dealership. in many cases they are satisfied to help. grasp tech 40 yrs.
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Check valve designated that it lets air go in one direction and stops water from going in reverse direction. For example if your airline gets disconnected from airpump by accident and drops on floor water won't gets syphoned out frmo tank to floor. You'd be surprised how much water can end up on floor in this scenario ;-) In order to install check valve you have to cut airline somewhat in halfs and put your checkvalve between pump and airstone. Arrow shows direction in which it passes air.
Q:Warped valves on my car? ?
takin the head off isnt the only way to tell if their warped.if ur engine doesnt have good compression on each cylinder then u kno its bent.or a broke rocker arm isnt openin the valve.the heads may need machining after a bent valve. but i think they can also warp not jus bend by bein hit or burnt.warped by pullin cold air where it dont belong
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considering your valve and turn is contained in the tank, why do no longer you in simple terms use a flow-activated valve and eliminate the electrical powered conclusion entirely? Why do you think of they use flow-valves in lavatories? because of the fact they do no longer consume any electrical energy and that they are undemanding units. considering you're no longer controlling a pump, why no longer in basic terms shop it undemanding?

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