Porcelain tile CMAX 6714

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Specifications of Porcelain Tile

1.Polished porcelain tile

2.Great natural stone image and high glossy degree

3.Water absorption:<0.5%

4.Sizes: 600 x 600mm or 800 x 800mm

6.Product features: resistance to fading, staining and discoloration, easy to clean

7.Package: carton + strong wooden pallet

8.Transportation: by sea

9.Package: 4 pcs/Ctn for 600mm; 3 pcs/Ctn for 800mm

Applications of Porcelain Tile

1.Suitable for homes flooring tiles

2.high grade office buildings

3. high-grade hotel flooring tiles,

4.government and corporate projects flooring tiles

5.deluxe clubs flooring and wall tiles

Pictures of porcelain tiles

porcelain tile

Usage of porceain tile

porcelai tiles

porcelain tile

Polishing Line of porcelain tile

polishing line

Packing Line of porcelain tile

packing warehouse

Certificate of porcelain tile

porcelain tile

Advantages of porcelain tile

Green Product
Guarantee/Warranty
International Approvals
Packaging
Price
Product Features
Product Performance
Prompt Delivery
Quality Approvals
Reputation
Service

Main Export Markets:

Asia
Australasia
Central/South America
Eastern Europe
Mid East/Africa
North America
Western Europe

Here you can find good products, better price and the best service!

Looking forward to receiving your inquiry

Q:For a while now I have just used paper towels as a substrate for my 2 leopard geckos and I recently have been researching slate tiles as a substrate and I want to give it a try due to the positive feedback i‘ve seen on message boards and care sheets. Now, I have 2 10 gallon tanks that I would like to use but details are lacking from an online source.1. What measurements should i ask for when getting a piece of slate cut(for a generic 10 gallon tank)?2. Is there a certain thickness the slate should be for proper heat disbursement?3. How warm should the slate be allowed to get if i‘m monitoring it with a thermometer? I know I could measure out the tank myself, but I was just curious if there was a size that fit better than what a measurement would give me. Thank you for the feedback.: I use slate tiles for my 3 geckos tanks. They work great. 1. A 10 gallon tank is generally 20in X 12in. Because not all the tiles are the same size I would go with cutting the tile slightly smaller to make sure they fit. So maybe 19 1/2 and 11 1/2. You will probably need 2 tiles for each tank so you could cut them anyway you want ( 10 and 10, 12 and 8, 6 and 6, etc. You can fill the gaps with sand later on. The 12 X12 tiles could be slightly smaller, slightly larger, or longer then they say. 2. No really, though you do want them to be fairly even in the tank. Most of my tiles are about 1/4 inch but I also have a layer of sand under the tiles so they are level even if the tiles are different thicknesses. 3. You want them to be warm but not too hot. Because leopard geckos use belly heat you'll want them about 88-90F. I would not let the tiles get over 95F though.

Q:Tiles on the iron out of the traces of how to remove: Can not be removed, that is, whether it is floor tiles or tiles, iron scratches are removed, and even if there is a clear trace of waxing

Q:I just finished laying tile in my shower. How long do I need to wait before I grout? If it makes any difference they are simple 4 inch white tiles.Also, just out of curiosity, I was told I needed to spread the adhesive on the wall and place the tiles over that. It seems like it would have been easier to apply the adhesive to the back of the tiles. Especially the last few tiles. Does this make any difference?: I put adhesive on wall as base and lightly spread adhesive onto back of tile to help create stronger bond. Follow adhesive instructions for grouting, cure times vary with adhesives. Better to wait than not to have adhesive set and wind up with moisture troubles and loose tiles from adhesion loss.

Q:I am in the process of installing a slate floor in my mudroom. The durock has been laid, and the tiles cut and sealed, and I‘m ready to start using the medium set to secure the tiles in place, but as I‘ve never laid slate (or any tile) before, I have some questions. 1. The tiles are in place now how I want them, do I have to take up the tiles row by row before I start mortaring them in place, or can I do 1 or 2 tiles at a time?2. I laid the tiles out starting from the center and working outwards. When I lay the tiles in place do I again start at the center, or do I start from the edges, or doesn‘t it matter?3. What is the best way to prevent lippage? As this is slate there is a good amount of variation. Do I just back butter each tile so that it is as high as the highest tile in the room? How do I manage to do that properly?: Others might disagree, but here's what I suggest: 1. I take up at least a few rows of tile at a time, carefully stacking them in order. 2. Layout should always be done using a center line. There are options for the installation: - If you carefully snap or draw lines for each row on the Durorock and do not use spacers you can start wherever you want, for example against a far wall so that you don't work your way into a corner. - If you only use a center line and rely upon spacers, then you need to start at the center. Tiles tend to drift from each other slightly when you install using spacers, so if you start in the center and work in both directions the net drift toward the edge will be half as much as it would if you work from one edge all the way to the other. - I always draw lines for each row when I do a diagonal installation. I install the longest row first and the work away from it toward the opposite corners. 3. Once I mix a batch of thinset, I don't want to fuss much with tile thickness. So before I even lay the slate tiles out on the floor I sort them from thickest to thinnest. Individual tiles often vary in thickness from one corner to the other; others might have consistent thickness but be dished (not flat). These tiles are candidates to be cut for edge pieces, or they might not be worth using at all. Anyway, I layout the tiles from thickest on one side of the room to thinnest on the other and only need to butter a thin corner of that occasional irregular tile that is pretty enough to be worth the hassle. 4. See my answer to 2.

Q:I want to lay tile on a house I just bought. What is the difference between ceramic and porcelain tile and which one would be the best fit for my house? The tile is going to be in the living room, dinning room, and kitchen. Also, how much is it going to cost me for labor to lay down the tile? Total square feet is going to be around 600 sq ft.: The colour goes through porceline tile and not ceramic. I have both kinds in my home. I paid $3.50 a square foot to have mine installed by the flooring store I purchased them from. This way you get a guarantee if they are done by their installers. I am in Ontario Canada, and had mine done last summer. My concern (as I have them at my entrance way) was how slippery they were when wet. Keep that in mind if you will be placing them at an entrance. (we have rainy and snowy weather here). Solid colours will show everything...dark shows dust and hair...light shows dirt and hair (we have animals). I have infloor heating under mine but if you do not, they will be cold on your feet...something else to think about.

Q:I am making a movie for school and i need to hang things from our ceiling to the ground. The problem is is that the ceiling is an acoustic tile and i‘m not sure if it will hold enough. (This is one of the older acoustic tiles with all of the holes in them.: Been there, done that... Can't happen. What you can do, however, is go to the hardware store and buy new ones OR if replacing them is out of the question, get a can of KILZ paint primer. It is the best stain blocker on the planet. Once you cover it with Kilz, it WILL still show through the Kilz, itself, but once you have one or two coats of regular pain over it, you will never see the blood again.

Q:My husband and I are building a small rectangular pool and want to add some mosaic tile designs on the floor of the pool. Is there a good website that explains how this should be done or can anyone share some advice on pool bottom tile work? Is this going to be easy to do or something to leave to the professionals?: Yes, okorder /.. Hope this helps!

Q:I‘m trying to tile a map using swing (JPanel and JFrame) but don‘t know where to start. Ideally the map would end up looking like pokemon or 2D zelda games, where there is an invisible, underlying grid, and the person occupies one spot at a time. Does anyone know how to do this?I can get a sprite to move, but that‘s based on pixels, not on tiles. If you know how to do this, can you paste code and explain it?: That's the most efficient way to do it. You use math to calculate positions, so the tiles are virtual. Unless you really need to draw tiles with boundaries, don't show them (like the original Warcraft game). Perform all of your calculations like movement and clicks-to-tile conversions based on pixel location. This is far more efficient that trying to do it with lots of actual Java subpanels merged together. But, note that it's a lot of work and you have to carefully work out your calculations to make sure your clicks are aligned correctly. One mistake I made with a hex map once was I used doubles and I casted them to integers too early, and the slight different (by losing percentage) threw all my calculations off slightly. The trick is to create your background image tiles so that they blend seamlessly together on all sides. That will take a LOT of effort.

Q:I tiled my fireplace and mixed the grout according to the right measurements. now a whole section of it is crumbling... can someone tell me why this is and what to do - thank you: Even if you mixed it right there s a couple things. Dirt in the joints and it didn t adhere, Loose tiles ,( knock on them w/ your knuckles to hear if they sound hollow, to much water w/ washing grout down. This are a few. Any questions you can e mail me thru my avatar and check my qualifications PS You didn t say exactly wher, both I had a thought I forgot ..If its on the inside of the tile on the legs and header part , this is common and caused by the expansion and contraction of the fire chamber. It thats it thers a couple ways to go about fixing it. Caulking w/ a matching colored sanded grout or digging it out and putting in a special meatl thats normally called a Schulter Metal. It s L shaped and part of its slid behind the tile andglued in and some covers the tile edge. Comes in many colors and readily available at tile places. GL

Q:we are constructing apartment....got a question about tile work..which is better, is it better to leave some gaps between tiles and is it better layout tiles with no gaps between them...the builder is suggesting the first option above...i prefer the second option...because with the first option, i feel there are chances of dirt getting clogged as time passess by...please advise: tile is always done with gaps, which are then filled with grout. small wall tiles usually have a tiny 1/16 gap, while floor tiles usually have bigger gaps from 3/16 up to 3/8

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