High-Performance Roofing Insulation - Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board
- Ref Price:
-
$5.00 - 10.00
/ m²
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 1000000000 m²/month
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Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board
1.Structure of Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board：
Rock wool insulation refers to a type of insulation that is made from actual rocks and minerals. It also goes by the names of stone wool insulation, mineral wool insulation, or slag wool insulation. A wide range of products can be made from rock wool, due to its excellent ability to block sound and heat. This type of insulation is commonly used in building construction, industrial plants, and in automotive applications.
The Manufacturing Process
Melting / Forming into fibers /Continuous-filament process/Staple-fiber process/ Chopped fiber/ Rock wool / Protective coatings /Forming into shapes
2.Main Features of Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board：
● FEATURES
Thermal Insulation
Fire Safety
Acoustic Control
No Corrosion
Environmental friendly
Moisture Resistance
Energy Conservation & Emissions Reduction
Different raw material: Our rock wool is mainly made by Basalt and other natural ores. The raw material for other so-called rock wool is mineral slag. Different raw material, different features.
Different corrosion resistance. Our rock wool have good corrosion resistance. non-corrosive for metal. But the mineral slag wool is different. In high humidity environment, CaS in mineral slag will have chemical reactions and produce corrosive when contact with metal.
Different working life. The working life for mineral slag is very short and Durability is very low because of higher CaO and MgO in slag. The efflorescence for mineral Slag is easy and also effect the working life. The
Different heat resisting. The heat resisting for rock wool(Basalt) is higher than mineral Slag wool. Our operating temperature can reach 800℃.But for Slag wool ,can not higher than 675℃.The features for our rock wool is totally superior to Slag wool.
3. Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board Images
4. Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board Specification
ROCK WOOL BLANKET & BOARD
Standard Size
Product Blanket Board
Density (kg/m3) 60-100 40-200
Size: L x W (mm) 1200X3000-6000 600X1200
Thickness (mm) 30-150 30-100
Remark:
Other sizes are available upon request.
Facing materials can be applied upon request.
Standard Size
Product Blanket Board
Density (kg/m3) 60-100 40-200
Size: L x W (mm) 1200X3000-6000 600X1200
Thickness (mm) 30-150 30-100
Remark:
Other sizes are available upon request.
Facing materials can be applied upon request.
Rock wool PIPE
Standard Size
DIA Thickness (mm)
inch mm 25 30 40 50 60 70 80 90 100 120 150
1/2’’ 22 ● ● ●
3/4’’ 27 ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
1’’ 34 ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
1-1/4’’ 43 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
1-1/2’’ 48 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
2’’ 60 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
2-1/2’’ 76 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
3’’ 89 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
3-1/2’’ 108 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
4’’ 114 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
5’’ 140 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
6’’ 169 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
8’’ 219 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
10’’ 273 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
12’’ 325 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
14’’ 356 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
15’’ 381 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
16’’ 406 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
18’’ 456 ● ● ● ● ● ● ● ●
19’’ 483 ● ● ● ● ● ●
20’’ 508 ● ● ● ● ● ●
22’’ 558 ● ● ● ● ●
24’’ 610 ● ● ● ● ●
5.FAQ
We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely：
① What’s the mainly material for rock wool？
Rock wool is called a mineral wool because it is made primarily from basalt, an igneous rock,
②What’s the mainly type for rock wool？
rock wool insulating products are available in loose-fill form and as batting. Batts, or blankets, are thick slabs of insulation that may have a kraft paper facing.
③How you control the quality?
During the production of fiberglass insulation, material is sampled at a number of locations in the process to maintain quality.
- Q: I do not have extra space on the roof. Roof also tapers to drains at one end of building.
- the R values, i am not sure. that white stuff is NOT Styrofoam. it is a cheap imitation. Real Styrofoam is made by DuPont, is usually a light blue, with a plastic seal coat on both sides. that thin plastic seal coat doubles the R value. what really does the insulation, is trapped air. air is actually a poor conductor of heat. the foam is actually little bubbles of air. dead air that is, air that cannot circulate and move. it works similarly to the way a down vest or coat works, it fluffs up and holds the air pockets out within a confining structure, thus retaining heat. the rigid stuff will last much longer, i can tell you that much. the white foam stuff deteriorates quickly. buy cheap, get cheap, is the general rule. you may wind up only having to do it again in a few years.
- Q: I am specifically considering the re-roofing of a an older home where rafters were made with 2x4 or 2x6 and the rafter space (and possibly the attic space) does not allow sufficient space for insulation and proper ventilation behind the insulation. The old layers of roofing have to be removed in any event. At this point I am considering applying insulation boards on the existing sheathing and then a new layer of sheathing before the new roofing material. (similar to a SIP: structural insulated panel) The two issues I am concerned with is that the insulation can act as a vapor barrier. Would condensation potentially rot the lower sheathing. How is this avoided in SIP roofing panels? The second issue may be with fire regulations.
- Good question and I do not know the answers. For the fire issue, call your local fire department and chat them up. Then call your building inspector and talk with him. If he's been around awhile he may have seen it done before and have some information on how it has worked out or what are must do's.
- Q: I work with rubber roofing insulation. How , other than long sleeves, do I deal with the after effects of being exposed to this insulation.
- take a cold shower as soon as you get home.
- Q: do i leave air gap in attic roof for insulation?
- The best way to set up an attic is to put a vapor barrier under the rafters (before nailing on the gyproc), then put the insulation (fibreglas batts) between the rafters to full depth (10 or 12 inches). Soffit vents are installed under the eaves at the sides of the roof, and gable vents are placed near the peak of the roof at the ends. This allows for airflow resulting from convection, particularly important in the summer months to remove heat buildup in the attic. If the insulation is adequate, it will not only isolate this heat buildup from the inside of the house in summer, but will prevent heat loss to the attic in winter. (The airflow in winter will be minimal, but will remove any moisture/condensation that might collect otherwise.)
- Q: My new room is an addition to a mobile home, and has a single-layer metal roof. I have 3 "main" concerns. What are the cheapest and/or most effective ways of eliminating them?1. No heat insulation- cold air sinks from the roof to my room, and my warm air rises to the roof and cools.2. Condensation forms on the inside and drips occasionally. My computer, bike, and downhill boards are in here!3. It seems like bugs could easily get into my room, but that's just a suspicion.
- welcome to the wonderful world of cheap, temporary roofing. you've just described a metal roof perfectly. bob, tell em what he's won! a lifetime supply of more bad decisions! also, the ugliest roof in town! but best of all, everyone who drives by his home will know he's a bandwagon kind of guy, he doesn't educate himself and do what's wise, he does what everyone else is doing! can't wait till that crowd finds that cliff they've been lookin for!!!
- Q: what action should a plumber take?????
- struggling to understand your question! are you talking about a storage tank? what is the problem with the insulation? if it is in the way move it but insulation under a tank is not a problem the tank will need to be insulated any way!
- Q: Hi, my building is hot in temperature in summers, so I am finding ways to tackle the problem by placing some heat insulating materials against the sunlight on the roof of my building. I have found several possible solutions, but none of them close to perfect. 1. grass layer: hard to maintain2. heat-insulating brick: might be too heavy to carry them to the roof3. heat-insulating coating: would it be damaged if we step on them? Are there things like heat-insulating carpets that would be convenient to instal?
- If you're redoing the roof, a radiant barrier under the sheathing helps. So does insulation. And also, if there is an attic space there, consider putting in a fan to blow the hot air out.
- Q: Hi, I have got a physics question and was just wondering about it.. Can someone pls tell me how does roof insulation work? how is it effective? How does the insulation changes the heat circulation and transfer inside a house?I know that the insulation prevents radiation from the sun and overheating.. but any more details about radiation, convection and conduction of heat pls?
- Well insulation makes a dead air space (air is stagnant). Since the air is not moving the transfer of hot and cold is slowed down considerably. But since you have to create cross ventilation to reduce rotting in wood and the build up of explosive gasses. Its a crap shoot that it even does any good. Radiation is heat so that's covered by the dead air space. Convection is usually not an issue with the cross venting. Also for conduction the insulation should slow it down considerably.
- Q: Tax Question: Itemized receipt for roofing and insulation?
- The insulation is a tax deduction. Call the contractor and ask for an itemized reciept for tax purposes.
- Q: Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?
- You can ask and I'm sure the landlord would be happy to have more insulation installed at your expense. There are many factors which contribute to heat loss including how much thermal mass in the home (furnishings, etc.) and how well it absorbs heat, the type of flooring, how well your basement/crawl space is insulated, cold leaks through windows and doors, chimneys, and so on. Then there is the outside ambient temperature to factor in. Personally, I think 4 degrees in 4 hours is very little heat loss. But, that would depend upon what the outside temperature was. Added: The far bedroom is probably the furthest from your heating source. If you have hot water radiant heat and a basement that won't freeze during the toughest times, you can insulate the heating pipes if not already done. Wrapping with newspaper is a cost-effective way of doing it and since the pipe will never get to 451F, there is no danger of it igniting. However, no matter what, the furthest away from the heat source is going to be the coldest. If "far corner" is N, NE, W NW, those are the coldest spots on a house during winter due to lack of sunlight. Here's a tip from my serviceman -- don't turn your furnace too low during the night. There is a break-even point where the energy used to heat up the environment is equal to the energy saved by keeping it at a lower temperature. The range is about 8 degrees on average, but that's here in the NE. This bore out very well last year during a bitterly cold winter that started in October and went well into May when I kept the heat "cranked up" higher at night. I used less fuel than I did the year before, which only had 6 months of normal winter. I used to turn it down to 55 at night, but I turned it down to 62 from 70. I was seriously overdoing it thinking I was doing me and the environment a favor :)
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High-Performance Roofing Insulation - Lowest Price Thermal Insulation Rock Wool Board
- Ref Price:
-
$5.00 - 10.00
/ m²
- Loading Port:
- Tianjin
- Payment Terms:
- TT or LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 10000 m²
- Supply Capability:
- 1000000000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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