High Glossy Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Crystal Jade Serie CMAX23601

Ref Price:
$3.90 - 4.00 / m²
Loading Port:
Guangzhou
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
500 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month
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Product Brief Introduction

 

Glossy Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Crystal Jade Serie CMAX23601, white color, is one of the most popular color in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones. The quartz spread on the surface makes the tile look more beautiful.

 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

  Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

  Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

  For 800x800mm, 3pcs/Ctn, 28 Ctns/Pallet, 616 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1182.72m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 

 

High Glossy Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Crystal Jade Serie CMAX23601

High Glossy Polished Porcelain Tile Double Loading Crystal Jade Serie CMAX23601

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 80*80 available?

—— Yes, 80*80 is available. In addition, the size 100*100 and 60*120 are also availbale.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs.

 

 

Q:I applied sealer to Mexican tile and within a few hours, it rained.The finish on the tiles now is cloudy. Will this clear with time as everything dries or should I bake the tiles to burn off the water trapped in the sealer?
The cloudiness you see is called blushing--the remedy will depend on the finish that you used. If it a lacquer you can use blush eliminator, I have never tried it on shellac or enamel. It may go away after it is dry however. Sometimes the moisture in the air will cause the finish to blush.
Q:Does all kinds of tiles calculate the formula per square meter? For example, a few pieces of 300X600 is a square meter?
This is like a primary school students will be considered it! 300X600 unit is centimeter right, that is, 0.3X0.6 = 0.18 square meters, 1 square meter ÷ 0.18 = 5.555, that is, five and a half more than a little bit.
Q:We have a two sink bathroom set up would like to replace the counter-top with a homemade tile counter-top - we are pretty handy but have not dealt with tile before - and before I ask my dad for help I thought why not check out yahoo answers. Thanks! :)
This isn't a very difficult task to undertake. There are several factors to consider when building this counter top: size of tile compared to counter top size (to figure out where the cuts will be other than the back, of course), top mount sink or undermount sink (how to finish the sink opening) and remember that a tile countertop will raise the sink and therefore you may need an extension for your pop-up/p-trap, will there be a backsplash? will that backsplash interfere with any outlets?, does the tile come with matching end caps or will you be using wood to cap the ends? Picking out the proper material and knowing how to do the job start to finish will make things soooo much easier. I would definitely use a 3/4 exterior grade plywood with cement board and cement board screws. Some tiles already come pre-spaced (4 1/4 x 4 1/4 tiles). Shoot me an email with some piictures of the project and I will try to help you and see where you possibly may run into some problems (if any). In the meantime, I suggest looking in HD or Lowes for those step-by-step books.
Q:standard shiny, white 4x4 tiles. I want to redo the bathroom stalls, but heard from some people that it could take forever, and that i might end up messing up the the drywall? to me it sounds simple... just get a spatula or something of the sort and scrape off the tiles... is that how it goes or is it more difficult than that? has anyone out there done this? what tools would i need? what type of tile cutter do you suggest? i‘d like to replace the tiles with something bigger... maybe 10x10 tiles?
Being that your house is pretty new most likely the tiles are on drywall and set using latex glue. However if they were set using thinset cement on drywall it will be a little harder or if the builder used the older method and set the tiles in cement on wire mesh, then it's a beast and everything must come down. Using a stiff putty knife start at the top and tap the putty knife behind the tiles and gently pry away from the wall. You will have some damage to the drywall, apply drywall compound, let dry sand down and paint with primer. NOTE: Be sure to wear eye protection and gloves, broken tile is very sharp. Also protect your tub by installing a piece of plywood on top of it to prevent falling tiles from damaging it. It's also not a bad ideal to just tear out the drywall and tile and install new backer board. Maybe a little more work money but In the long run it will make for a much better job. If you are going to use that large of tile you really should tear it out and use the cement backer board and thinset as your glue as these tiles are heavy. Rent a wet saw to cut the tiles.
Q:I need to take a tile that is on the wall under my bathroom sink cabinet to use it to replace some visible tiles. I know it‘s possible to remove the old damaged tiles, but obviously I don‘t want to damage the ones that I‘m going to use to replace the bad ones.
it can be done by using a thin chisel or even an wallpaper scraper pushed behind each tile to break the adhesive seal. much will depend on the amount of adhesion and if the wall plaster is sound etc or the tiles are strong or thin weak and brittle. only by trail and error will you find out but there normally i find unless the tile is particularly well stuck to a wall it will in fact pry of easily and in fact you have to be ready to 'catch' it before it falls and shatters. watch out for broken tiles as the edges are extremely sharp .
Q:If I start in the middle, I will have to cut tile for both sides. I think I should start in the upper right corner, but my neighbor seems to think it will look out of balance.
When laying tiles always start with perfectly orthogonal lines intersecting in the center of your space. That's where you begin laying the tiles. The smaller the space, the more any imperfection will show.
Q:I want to use the tiles for a back splash in the kitchen. Is there a reason I have to use the spacers? Why can‘t I put them where they are touching each other? I‘m not using them on a floor. I don‘t like the look of the space between the tiles.
Sorry to disagree with almost everyone, but, the two main purposes of grout are waterproofing and keeping a straightt and level run on the tile. Tile adhesive (for walls) is more the enough to hold a tile in place for a very long time (I tiled behind my fridge more than a decade ago and never got around to grouting). With that being said, you can use any width grout line you like. The thinner the line, the harder it is to keep your run straight and your tiles level to each other. Without a grout line, water can seep behind the tile and damage your wall (or sub floor). Even the most perfectly laid tiles done by a master tile layer will have a grout line. The best laid marble has a grout line of 1/16 th of an inch. That is VERY difficult to do right. Good Luck
Q:16 by 16 tiles
Tile labor varies a bit from area to area, but you can figure in the $7 a s/f range for basic labor , thin set, grout and 1/2 cement board , which is generally need when installing over the common wood sub floors. Tile isn t figured in this price since a plain , average or discontinued tile can go from $1 a s/f to a very nice tile in that size at 4$ a s/f Extras such as rip out/ disposal and any floor prep isn t included either. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar.. GL
Q:What is the use of ceramic tile?
Use: the construction of the wall to be wet (outside the wet dry), and to maintain a certain degree of flatness, uneven or extremely rough parts of the application of cement mortar and other materials leveling; grass-roots must remove the floating ash, oil, wax, so as not to affect the stick Knot tiles in 5 to 15 minutes after the move can be corrected. Water-cement ratio of about 1: 4, after mixing the binder should be used within 5 to 6 hours (the temperature is about 20 degrees); the mixed adhesive applied to the back of the adhesive brick, and then Press hard, until the plain so far. Due to different materials and the actual consumption of different, generally at least about 4.5 to 6 kg per square meter, paste thickness of about 2 ~ 3mm. Use of common sense: 1, deacetal type: vulcanization speed, transparency is good, but in the curing process Release of acetic acid; with a pungent odor, but also on the metal, coated glass and some inorganic materials corrosion.
Q:She worked at a steady rate after the first day.Use an equation in point-slope form to determine how many days Lizzy took to place all of the 100 tiled needed to finish the floor,
She laid 5 tiles the first day, and 10 tiles each day thereafter: x = number of days Lizzy has worked laying tiles Total Tiles = 5 + 10(x-1)] Test this equation with the information you are given: 35 = 5 + 10(4 - 1) = 5 + 10(3) = 5 + 30 = 35 <<<<< TRUE So, now you can solve the problem. However, it is unclear to me whether Lizzy needs to lay 100 MORE tiles, or 100 tiles, total.... 100 = 5 + 10(x - 1) 100 = 5 + 10x - 10 100 - 5 + 10 = 10x 105 = 10x 10.5 = x It takes Lizzy 10.5 days to lay 100 tiles. 135 = 5 + 10(x - 1) 135 = 5 + 10x - 10 135 - 5 + 10 = 10x 140 = 10x 14 = x It takes Lizzy 14 days to lay 135 tiles.

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