Glazed Porcelain Tile DUKE Serie Silver Medal DKSM24

Glazed Porcelain Tile DUKE Serie Silver Medal DKSM24

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Loading Port:: Shekou

Payment Terms:: TT or LC

Min Order Qty:: 1105.92

Supply Capability:: 100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

Glazed Porcelain Tile DUKE Serie Silver Medal DKSM24 is one of the most popular color of DUKE series, which is one serie of Glazed Porcelain Tile in our portfolio. It could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its anti slippery.

Product Features

Glazed Porcelain Tile, Color Body

Only Grade AA available

Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution as well as packing

Competitive price

Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Plywood Pallet

Fast delivery

OEM service could be offered

Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

Product Specification

Tile Type: Glazed Porcelain Tile

Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

Water Absorption Rate: ≤0.5%

Breaking Strength: ≥ 1300 N

Rupture Modulus: ≥ 35 MPa

Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.5%

Edge Straightness: ±0.5%

Slip-resistance: From R9 to R13

Resistance to Chemical: Class UA

Resistance to Staining: Class 3.

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 32 Ctns/Pallet, 768 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1105.92m2/20’Fcl

Production Line & Package

Glazed Porcelain Tile DUKE Serie Silver Medal DKSM24

FAQ

1. For Glazed Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 8 pcs are packed into one carton.

2. What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1105.92 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

3. Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers.

Q:I am tiling my bathroom and in the process of re-tiling the shower stall. I removed the old plastic liner there and now some of the glue remains on the greenboard. Also, some of the green part of the board is ripped of from when the glue came off with the old liner. Some of the paper is flakey in spots. I pulled off some of the loose pieces, but there is more. Now, I‘m an amateur. I was told to use some grout sealer to go over the greenboard. However, since there are flakey pieces of paper from the greenboard on there still, should I simply remove as much as I can before sealing and tiling? Will the seal glue these flakey pieces down and make them secure for tiling? What is your advice? Many thanks!: If you have gone that far, I would either tear out the greenboard and replace it with cement board, or you might be able to cement board right over the greenboard. The cement board will outlast the next 50 familys that will use that bathroom. It is great stuff, well worth the effort. Don't try patching the greenboard, it is not worth the effort. Do it right and be done with it forever.

Q:I accidently kicked in one of the tiles near the knobs on the bottom front of the shower. the tile is caved in and loose so i took it out and noticed the blue board behind it. There is a blue board and 6 tiles on the board. the blue board is easily pushed back and has little support. the 6 tiles are loose too and if i press the tile, it will go back a little. I think the blue board provided little support for the tiles and the tile cave in would of happened eventually anyway. either that or it was completely my fault because i caved in one of the tiles which made all of the other tiles loose?? I think the blueboard had little support and it wasn‘t completely my fault. should i fight my landlord on this?i just met with her and sat through a lecture with her accusing me of everything, from having parties trashing the apartment to the slightly black grout near the tub so im kind of worked up over this.: The tile is installed incorrectly. Water has soaked the blue board and it was a matter of time before theu fell off on their own. Tile should never be installed this way and especially in a well used shower where a lot of use will make it go bad faster. Nothing less than a cement backer board should have been used. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL

Q:My husband and I are disagreeing about tile on the wall. What is your opinion about tile on the bathroom wall, half way up? Here are the yes and no‘s of arguments:YES:The tile is neutral and beautiful. There is a WOW factor when you walk in and see the extra tile. It‘s practical for our household with a one year old who splashes and may smudge a non-tiled bathroom wall.NO:It‘s old fashioned, not necessary and I would rather have empty wall space available to paint from top to bottom. There only needs to be tile around the bath tub, for splashing and practicality purposes.: I prefer having tile to not having tile for the wow factor. But generally it is more expensive than people realize to have it done right. But I don't see what you talking about for practicality issues. Tiling doesn't waterproof a surface. If you apply tile over OSB, you will have toxic mold in one month. If you apply cement board directly over studs and then tile, you will have toxic levels of mold on the studs within a year. If you want waterproofing you have to install it into your tile setup.

Q:I am tiling my kitchen and My house was a prefab. and OLD. The plywood used was 1/2 (I measured it). what thickness of backboard/cement board should I use for under the tile and on top of the plywood? I was thinking 1/2 backerboard/cement board so there is 1 of subfloor under the tile. Do you think this is enough? Also, I am tiling around my cabinets, what do I do about the dishwasher? Do I tile around it? If I tile under it, it won‘t fit in the spot then. I was going to tile around it... I do have room to tile under the fridge though. There is space above.: All tile hand book guide lines require a MINIMUM of 1 1/4 total substrate thickness to do ceramic flooring. This is both the ATC and TCA guide line. ( America Tile Council and Tile Council of America.) Should be fine won t cut it with ceramic , you need an additional 1/2 ply cross layed, glued and well nailed or screwed w/ no seams lining up . Then an additional 1/2 inch substrate . This using a cement board in most cases. This must be thin setted down and nailed or screwed in the proper fashion. You asked about the thin setting the cement board down, all I ll tell you is that I follow all recommended guidelines to be safe and I ve never had a problem.. The reason for this is because the thin set allows for no gaps , holes or spaces for movment of the cement board for a firm solide base for tile.. The refridge should be moved out during all this and then brought back in several days after the grouting is done to allow a little extra time to have the thin set dry more because of the extra weight .. As far as your dishwasher , your locking it in because of the flooring change..There you ll have to make some choices.. Any questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there.. GL

Q:My kitchen is 15x11 and I am buying 18x18 tiles I need to know how many to buy.: First of all, your calculation is wrong. You have 165 Sq Ft' Second of all 18(18) does not = 18 The correct answer is 18(18)=324Sq.inches.=2.7 2.7 div.165=61. You will need approx.65 tiles.

Q:Or must I use Duraroc board or a similar item.Also can I use a ceramic wall tile on the floor ? I know they are of different thicknesses but would the wall tile hold up on a floor? Thanks for all the help.: You can tile over sheetrock, but if it is painted with a paint with gloss, you need to sand the wall to remove the gloss first. If the tile is above the tub where it will be wet on a regular basis, you should replace the sheetrock with Durarock or hardibacker. Wall tile can be used on the floor, but should be installed over durarock or hardibacker. In addition the sub-floor and underlayment should be at least 1 1/4 thick if the floor joists are on 16 centers, thicker if the span is wider. The biggest concern with wall tile is that it is usually glossy and slick, which means it will be extremely slick to the point of being hazardous, especially wet.

Q:I just mortared some very porous tiles down and i‘m ready to grout. I‘ve used these tiles before and noticed it‘s pretty tough to get the haze to go away. Should i pre-seal the tile before grouting? if so, what brand or name? Also, do i still use a grout haze remover if needed? And lastly what is your recommended tile sealer to finish the job?: Pre Sealed Grout

Q:i want to paint my bathroom and the walls and floor are ceramic tile what do i do?: This Site Might Help You. RE: what kind of paint do you paint ceramic tiles with? i want to paint my bathroom and the walls and floor are ceramic tile what do i do?

Q:I want to install Travertine tile to a fireplace surround. This would be travertine tile directly to sheetrock, painted with flat latex paint. This areawould never see moisture other than something the wet grout and sealer. Is this OK? Will the sheetrock hold the weight of the tiles? What prep is needed? Or am I asking for trouble?: NO. You need to put cement board under the tile. You can buy 3 x 5 sheets that are 1/4 thick. If you put it directly onto the sheet rock they will fall off and/or crack. Do it right the first time

Q:What is the classification of tiles, what is the difference?: Tiles are divided into floor tiles, wall tiles and waist tiles. Floor tiles: according to the color is divided into imitation Spanish bricks, glass polished tiles, glazed tiles, anti-skid tiles and seepage polished tiles. Wall tiles: according to the color can be divided into glass wall, printing wall tiles. Waist bricks: mostly printed tiles. In order to meet the specifications of the wall, waist brick is generally set to 60mm × 200mm format. Tiles according to the process is divided into: glazed tiles, quintana brick, polished tiles, tiles, ceramic tiles. Glazed tiles: Brick on the surface of a brick. This brick is divided into two categories: one is made of clay; the other is made with porcelain clay, the current home decoration about 80% of the buyers choose this brick for the floor decoration materials. Quintana Brick: This is a glazed porcelain tile that has good skid resistance and abrasion resistance. Generally speaking, "anti-skid tiles" are mostly quintana bricks. As this kind of brick price is moderate, popular consumer favorite. Polished tiles: the whole body after polishing polished polished tiles, this brick is very high hardness, very wearable. Tile: This is a kind of high temperature fired ceramic tile, is the hardest of all the tiles. Sometimes polished tiles are scratched when the tiles are still safe and sound. The Ceramic tiles: also known as mosaic, specifications, thin and small, hard texture, acid, alkali, wear, no water, strong pressure, not broken, colorful and versatile.

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