full welded forged steel ball valve PN 2 Mpa

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Design Features of full welded forged steel ball valve

The body of ball valve is full welded,selects high quality forged material,and adopts the advanced forged forming technology to form two semi-spheres which are welded into a whole in the middle of the body.This welding technology differentiates the ball valve form others,and makes the valve more spherically,so the valve structure is more compacter,lighter and stronger.Besides,the middle direct welding realize highly accurate valve body manufacturing,makes fully and completely sealing between the seat and ball.The full welding instead of bolts completely avoids the outside leakage,so ball valve is the ideal product for under-ground,offshore working platform and under-sea equipments.

Adopting fixed plates or trunnion to support the ball

The top and bottom of the ball is supported by upper and lower fixed plates or stem and trunnion,and the ball is accurately placed in the center of the ball valve to achieve complete seals and precise movements.When plate adopted,the force exerted by the medium to the ball is distributed via the plate to the left and right bodies,so that the stem does not bear the blending moment from the medium,but only the torque from the ball rotation during the opening/closing of the valve.The low-friction PTFE Teflon composite bearings installed between the ball axis and fixed plate and between the stem and the trunnion can absorb ball moving action caused by the pressure of the medium.This structure brings stable actions and easy operations for the ball valves,and the required operation torque can be reduced,so smaller actuators can be used,and the cost is cut down.

ball valve seat is floating structure,means the seat can move along the medium direction,so that the seat can fit against the ball all the time.
Double piston effect structure seat of full welded forged steel ball valve
Seat design is special double pistons effect structure,it can ensure the seal wherever the medium flows into the ball valve.

Seat multistage seal strucute of full welded forged steel ball valve
As following graphic instruction,on seat bearing ring,set two soft sealing rings(A and B)and metal sealing spherical surface which can seal with the ball.Seat ring A is spring loaded,which seals the surface with the ball tightly to the surface to form an initial seat;When there is pressure generated from medium,the piston force is generated to make seal ring A elastically deformed and seal ring B fit the surface of the ball surface due to the piston effect caused by area difference,thus the second seal forms.When the medium pressure is rising.It will generate huge pressure to seal ring A and seal ring B,so the two seals have a greater elastic deformation,then metal seal ball surface compact with ball surface to form the third level of metal to metal seal.

Secondary seat seal device of full welded forged steel ball valve
As the above graphic instruction,the secondary seal device(seat grease injection valve)can be chosen according to the actual working condition,medium requirement,seal requirement,etc.Seat ring grease injection valve is a one-way valve,installed on the body,which can prevent the leakage and inject grease under the outside force.When secondary seal is required,there is a grease injecting channel and hole on the seat ring.The grease can form a seal between the seat and the ball,and then stop the leakage.

Standards Applied of full welded forged steel ball valve

Design   Standard

 API   6D customize 

Connection   Standard

 ASME   B 16.25-2007  ASME B 16.5  ASME B 31.4  ASME B   31.8  DIN  GBGB/T  JBJB/T JIS customize   

Test   Standard

 API   6D customize 

Face   to Face

 API   6D customize 

Pressure-teperature   rating

 ASME   B 16.34-2004 customize 

Marking

 MSS   SP-25 customize 

FAQ of full welded forged steel ball valve:

Q1:I can’t find the type of steel check valve which I need. what can I do?

The chart above only lists out some common composition of steel check valve parts.We may provide other different parts material composition according to the customer's request or the actual valve working condition.

 

Q2:Which certification do your products pass?

  Our products are in accordance with ISO 9001ISO 14001API 6AAPI 6DTS CEAPI607/6FA/BS6755.

 

Q3:How can I place an order?

  The only one thing you should do is to tell us the sepecification about type quantity and  mode of transportation, then we will send you quotation within 24 hours.



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Q:Dr says I have a leaking heart valve but not which valve.?
All of them equal greater stress on the heart, because if blood leaks in, then the heart fills somewhat beyond capacity and causes it to become stressed in the process of contraction.
Q:i'm being charged $300 to replace a 75gallon water heater valve, is that too much?
What, just the valve? What valve? A stop valve in the supply or delivery line? Or the temperature and pressure valve? There's no way on God's green earth I'd ever fork over $300 for this job. I can do it myself in thirty minutes. The TP valve would take less than ten minutes. Granted I'm a handyman and I have a shopful of tools and 20 years experience. But back in the day, when I'd never done any maintenance work, I replaced my own water heater from start to finish and it only took a couple of hours. Unless there's something major going on that you're not disclosing to us, it sounds like a pretty serious overcharge. [edit] To answer your additional questions, I wouldn't pay that much to replace all three valves. The valves themselves aren't very expensive, and the only really difficult part of this entire operation is getting all the water under control to replace the drain valve. Something's going to get wet, and that tends to make homeowners annoyed and difficult customers. The TP valve is a simple wrench-in, wrench-out replacement. Water off, power off, drain below the level of the valve and out it comes. Control valve requires turning off the house's water, but less draining. Replacing the drain valve requires draining the entire heater but again it's a wrench-in, wrench-out job. Easy.
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The two terms are used interchangeably. They are valves that are used to completely interrupt flow as opposed to a valve that is used to throttle or control flow without stopping it.
Q:inner tube valve (Specialized) too large for the hole in rim (Bontrager)?
Sounds as if you need a tube with a Presta valve stem vs. a Schrader valve stem. Link below showing the difference.
Q:How to modify 1986 YZ 125 Power valve?
The power valve is the little metal flap that cover up part of the exhaust port while the engine is operating at low and mid RPM ranges. If you have bored the cylinder and the power valve is protruding into the cylinder, then you'll have to machine off the power valve or use a die grinder (dremel tool) to provide additional clearance. EDIT - If you're ordering the piston that is .040 oversize, then the power valve has to be modified. If you're ordering the .030 or smaller oversize, or the stock size, then no modification is needed.
Q:I need to replace the multi-turn valve for the cold water my kitchen faucet. I have CPVC Flowguard Gold pipes
Is the new valve or the old valve the compression type? If the old valve is then as you take it off you will discover if it is glued (I doubt a compression valve is also glued). Replace the old valve with the same type as the old one. That is always a good rule of thumb to follow. Put it on tightly but DO NOT over-tighten it. 1/4 turn past tight it usually tight enough. I am not a big fan of compression fittings in either copper or cpvc. You may wish to put a glued valve on, if you already have the cleaner, the primer, and the glue, other wise the expense of the materials does not warrant their purchase for the changing of one valve.
Q:Euphonium problem, valves?
There are several possibilities. You may have buildup on either the valve or the casing. Cleaning it thoroughly should normally remove it, but every once in a Blue Moon it pays to take it in and have it professionally cleaned. They can inspect it at the same time and tell you if you have a bend or a ding in the casing. Sometimes they are really hard to spot, especially if they are hidden in one of the crevices of the detail work. A really good repair person can stick a scope down there and tell you if you have some kind of blockage in just a few minutes. The only way to really clean inside the casing yourself is to get a good bottle brush that fits inside with just a little bit of resistance. You should really get someone to show you how to do it the first time because you don't want to go scraping up the insides. There is one other possibility that is kind of rare. Sometimes you get some gunk up under the valve button and it sticks when you push it down. You should normally be able to see this just by looking underneath however. Best of luck and I hope you find your sticking point and are able to set it free.
Q:what is overrun clutch solenoid valve ,is for my nissan maxima .My code scanner gave me this dtc definition?
Description The overrun clutch solenoid valve is activated by the TCM in response to signals sent from the park/neutral position (PNP) switch, overdrive control switch, vehicle speed and throttle position Will then be controlled. TCM TERMINALS AND REFERENCE VALUE ON BOARD DIAGNOSIS LOGIC Diagnostic trouble code O/R CLTCH SOL/CIRC with CONSULT-II or P1760 without CONSULT-II is detected when TCM detects an improper voltage drop when it tries to operate the solenoid valve. POSSIBLE CAUSE Check the following items. Harness or connectors (The solenoid circuit is open or shorted.) Overrun clutch solenoid valve DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE (DTC) CONFIRMATION PROCEDURE CAUTION: Always drive vehicle at a safe speed. NOTE: If DIAGNOSTIC TROUBLE CODE CONFIRMATION PROCEDURE has been previously conducted, always turn ignition switch OFF and wait at least 5 seconds before conducting the next test. TESTING CONDITION: Always drive vehicle on a level road to improve accuracy of test. After the repair, perform the following procedure to confirm the malfunction is eliminated. WITH CONSULT-II Turn ignition switch ON and select DATA MONITOR mode for `ENGINE with CONSULT-II. Start engine. Accelerate vehicle to a speed of more than 10 km/h (6 MPH) with D position (O/D ON). Release accelerator pedal completely with D position (O/D OFF). WITH GST Follow the procedure With CONSULT-II. WIRING DIAGRAM - AT - ORVCSV Diagnostic Procedure 1: CHECK VALVE RESISTANCE 2: CHECK VALVE OPERATION 3: CHECK POWER SOURCE CIRCUIT 4: CHECK DTC 5: CHECK TCM INSPECTION This isn't something you want to do in your driveway. Take it to a decent mechanic and they should have it knocked out in about an hour or less, if it's the same one I'm thinking of.
Q:Valve Guide Question?
Ohhhh man. NO DRILLS. I assume you are referring to an Aluminum Cylinder head. To do it correctly you need a drift punch that has a pilot size of the valve stem, and an outside diameter that is just a few thousands smaller than the guide. Disassemble the head completely, put in Moms oven at the highest setting it will go to ( 5-6 hundred degrees ) Pound old guide out from the combustion camber side. ( have every thing ready to go this FFer will be hot ). Coat new guide with something like STP, put in freezer, carefully align it, then slam it home from the valve train side, don't pussy around, get it in before it attracts the heat of the head, if you stop or it stops you will have to repeat the entire process. If you gall the Aluminum ( say O-**** ) Since you have to hit this thing fairly hard you will need to refinish the inside of the guide with the appropriate reamer. Then refinsh Valve seat ( they never, NEVER line up perfectly )
Q:hi i just found out last week i have a micro valve and have willam sydrome i need more info about the valve?
I have a mitral valve prolapse. Don't know if this is what you meant or not, but it can lie dormant for a long time. I thought I was hvaing a heart attack!!

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