Flint Board Roofing Insulation Aluminum Foil Bubble Composite Material

Flint Board Roofing Insulation Aluminum Foil Bubble Composite Material System 1

Flint Board Roofing Insulation Aluminum Foil Bubble Composite Material

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Loading Port:: Tianjin

Payment Terms:: TT or LC

Min Order Qty:: 10000 m²

Supply Capability:: 1000000 m²/month

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Aluminum Foil Bubble Heat Insulation

Description of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

Aluminum foil and bubble is the better product in the environmental protection, thermal insulation thermal insulation. The outermost PET has good abrasion resistance and high strength tear resistance. The bubble between the aluminum foil not only has a strong moisture, resistance oxygen, sound insulation, drop noise function, aluminum foil bubble also has very good reflective inverse heat, blocking ultraviolet.

Features of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

It is the high quality heat insulating and the invincible opponent of anti- condensation. The low and stable coefficient of heat conduction has good isolation effect.

The product has many advantages, such as light weight, heat insulation, shock absorption, sound absorption and noise reduction;

The product is easy to install and process and it also waterproof, seepage control, flame retardant.

The product also has many features, such as heat resistance, low temperature resistance, chemical resistance, ageing resistance etc.

Application of Aluminum Foil Bubble:

Building reflective heat, cold and hot water pipe insulation;

Refrigerator partition, central air conditioning, refrigerator and household appliances insulation;

Insulation, sound-absorbing, noise reduction and moisture-proof insulation in the car, train, refrigerator car, laboratory and other industries;

Special product packaging and refrigerated packing and so on.

Pictures of Aluminum Foil Bubble

Aluminum Foil Bubble Composite Material for Insulation

Specification of Aluminum Foil Bubble

STRUCTURE	ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL	ALUMINUM FOIL/ BUBBLE/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL	ALUMINUM FOIL/WOVEN CLOTH/BUBBLE/WOVEN CLOTH/ALUMINUM FOIL	MPET /BUBBLE/MPET	ALUMINUM FOIL/BUBBLE/FOAM/BUBBLE/ALUMINUM FOIL
THICKNESS	1-4mm	8mm	6.5mm	4mm	4mm
WEIGHT	120GSM	240GSM	180GSM	120GSM	445GSM
BUBBLE SIZE	4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER	2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER	4mm HIGH x 20mm DIAMETER	4mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER	2mm HIGH x 10mm DIAMETER FOAM THICKNESS: 3.5MM
WIDTH	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)	1.2m (MAX 1.5m)
THERMAL CONDUCTIVITY	0.034w/mo	0.032 w/mo	0.032w/mo	0.034w/mo	5.87m2.k/w
REFLECTIVITY	96-97%	96-97%	96-97%	96-97%	96-97%

FAQ

We have organized several common questions for our clients，may help you sincerely:

①How about your company?

A world class manufacturer & supplier of aluminum foil bubble insulation，is one of the large-scale professional investment aluminum foil composite insulation bases in China, consisting of both casting foundry forging and machining factory. Annually more than 100,000 square meters foil insulation are exported to markets in Europe, America and Japan. OEM service available according to customer’s requirements.

②How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management system，every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test; We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

③How long can we receive the product after purchase?

In the purchase of product within three working days, We will arrange the factory delivery as soon as possible. The specific time of receiving is related to the state and position of customers. Commonly 20 to 25 working days can be served.

④What is the storage condition?

The welded wire mesh should be stored at room temperature and kept from wet and heat source.

Q: Our roof tile is installed on top of galvanized iron sheets. We do not have any toher form of insulation. The roof tile or tegula is quite thick.: Absolutely. You will find in the summer that your tiles will heat up from the sun and will stay hot even after dark (the steel sheets don't exactly help either). Your energy bills will go down about 60% in the summer and 20% in the winter by just installing a cheap fiberglass filling. A good example of how these tiles are effecting you house would be a stoneware cup. Pour hot water into it and place it in the microwave until it boils. Feel that the side are very hot, too hot to hold (this represents the sun heating up the tiles). Now pour out that cup and fill it with cold water (which would represent AC in your home). In about 2 or three minutes, place your finger in the stoneware cup. The water will be warm. The tiles do the same thing. The absorb and distribute heat into your home during the warm months, and will rob your home of it's heat during the winter and cool months. Just by placing insulation in your home, you stop that unwanted heat exchange with your home and the outside world.

Q: hi me and my friends made a lounge out of my old tin roof shed we have a tv speakers and a few other electrical goods... since winters on its way we were wondering whats the best and cheapest way to insulate the place note that its a tin rof but has wood under it where the old indulation used to be the place is pretty chilly and sometime damp plz help we dont wanna be freezing our asses off in there thanks :): What is he using glue on? Buy rolled fiberglass insulation, install it between the rafters and wall studs...paper side in. You can cover the walls and ceiling with drywall, OSB, plywood if you wish. You do realize that insulating your shed isn't going to make it much/any cooler don't you? You will need an air conditioner for that, but the insulation will help keep the AC in.

Q: I have an apartment building that has mold in it. I'm trying to do everything I can to increase the airflow. Sure, the tenants might have to spend a mint on heat, but if it improved the air quality, maybe it would be a good idea.: mold needs moisture to start/grow. find out why there's moisture and fix that first. Just creating more air flow won't stop the mold from growing and it won't necessarily make the air quality better if mold is growing in the walls. since you said it was roof insulation, (I'm gonna assume you meant attic) check the roof for leaks. I wouldn't think you'd have to get rid of all the insulation but I'd definately get rid of anything moldy. Blown in isulation is fairly cheap to replace. Lowe's sells a mold test kit, not sure how it works but I saw them yesterday when I was in there. Might be worth looking into getting one.

Q: I am really confused about this science stuff! Sustainability is terrible xP: i'm designing a house it quite is a retangle on the 1st floor with an L shape on the 2d and installation into that L i choose to have a greenhouse related. My plan is to apply 2x10 or 2x12s for my floor joist that way i can insulate the ceiling of the room it is under that and the two partitions that are related to the greenhouse. no longer a lot to learn any warmth from it,yet to have plant life. If i choose to get any image voltaic benefit illl in simple terms open the door to the domicile

Q: should thermal insulation ever be applied directly to the underside of a roof top?: Should it be done, No. Thermal Insulation is put direftly above the ceiling. Not on the actually roof top. The reason being, that even though both methods will trap in heat, With the insulation on the arches of the roof, it still allowing heat into the Attic, Or roof space. This means that the top of the roof will infact be the warmest part of the house, and lot of heat will be lost. from the main rooms of the house.

Q: does insulation, with a high R value, in the attic prolong the life of the shingles on the roof.: I partially disagree with the previous answers. Ventilation does help tremendously BUT in the winter a high R value keeps the heat from going through the ceiling through the attic to the roof heating up any snow on the roof which causes ice & ice dams to form, which in turn will shorten the life span of your roof.

Q: Without loft insulation ,the roof space is full of air.Why does this not keep the heat in?: Because air can circulate, (it's called convection) and transfer a lot of heat. In other words, air alone is a very poor insulator. .

Q: I am purchasing a mobile home with a shingled roof. The shingles need to be replaced (&gt;15yrs old) and with the cost of heating going up each day I thought I would added some of that 2&quot; thick rigid insulation. I would place this right on top of the existing roof and then place the firring strips for the metal roof right on top of the rigid insulation panels (which are 4x8'). By using 3&quot; galvanized sheet rock screws I will get a good solid attachment. Then I will put the metal roofing on to the firring strips as normal. Does anyone see any downside to doing this? Has anyone tried this before?: The only downside I see is your miscalculation about the length of the screws need. Lets see, 2 inches of insulation, 3/4 inches of furring, leaves you with a solid 1/4 inch of bite, and we all know that the first 1/4 inch of the screw is meant for piercing, not holding. So plan on 4 inch screws, because you still need to penetrate the old roof and bite the structure. Don't forget to plan your drip edge which now will have 2+ inches of roof thickness to carry the rain water over into your gutter.

Q: Finally remembering to do so, before my family and I left the house for approximately 4 hours, I turned off the heat before leaving. When we came home I turned it back on, but was shocked to see that the temperature had dropped 4 degrees in that time. 4 degrees in just under 4 hours seems like a lot of heat loss, does it not? I've seen the insulation in our roof and it's just that sawdust looking stuff spread everywhere. I feel like I'm paying a lot of unnecessary dollars for heating: the air does kick on every hour or two and we keep the thermostat at 68.Is it reasonable for me to talk to my landlord about this problem and getting better insulation in the ceiling, and maybe in the roof? (the master bedroom, on the far corner of the house, is always 2-3 degrees below the rest of the house). Are my expectations to not lose a degree of heat or more per hour unreasonable? Would a typical landlord consider this a problem worth discussing?: We don't know what kind of climate you are in - or the age/construction of the dwelling.......but by standards here, 4 degrees heat loss in 4 hours is insignificant... For comparison.....we have a two-story, 1800 sq ft modern home in Ohio: the windows are triple-glazed (but there are a lot of them)......the walls have fiberglass bats under 1 inch cedar siding.......our ceilings are acoustical tile over plasterboard with about 2 feet of blown-in fiberglass insulation above them. We have a new, Energy Star gas furnace . . . . in cold weather it cycles on&off at least 10 times an hour.....I am sure that if we were to turn it off, the temps would drop more than 5 degrees per HOUR......gas bills about $250 a month in winter. You are fortunate to have so little heat loss in yours.......while the "sawdust looking" insulation doesn't sound very cutting-edge, I can't imagine anything would reduce the heat loss and be cost-effective. If buildings didn't cool-off in cold weather, we'd just heat rocks in the sun and bring them inside !!!!!!!

Q: Above the trailer roof is a metal pitched roof with no soffit and lots of air-flow. I plan to recess the insulation 6&quot; to allow airflow. There is a suggestion that I need a vapor barrier. If I use a vapor barrier, won’t water collect between the roof and the barrier. I was thinking if using strapping crosswise every 4” to act as a channel for water runoff. Any ideas?: your plan is good ...

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