cold rolled steel coil / sheet / plate -SPCE in CNBM

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Tianjin
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
30 m.t.
Supply Capability:
5000000 m.t./month
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Product Description:

Description:

The raw material of cold rolled steel coil/sheet is high quality hot rolled product, and after pickling, kinds of new technology and new process of global cold rolling production have been applied. Therefore the manufacturing, home appliance, automobile etc.


Specification: 

COLD ROLLED STEEL

Thicknenss

0.10mm-4.00mm

Width        

600mm-2000mm

Sheets  length  

1200-6000mm

Coil inner  diameter  

508-610mm

Surface  treatement

matt finish/bright  finish,oiling/dry, bright anneal/black anneal

Coil  weight    

3-5t

 

Application:

1. Refrigerators, cabinets, power distribution baords and drums.

2. Automobile floor and roof panels.

3. Automobile fenders and quarter panels

4. Automobile fenders and quarter panels


Images:

cold rolled steel coil / sheet / plate -SPCE in CNBM

cold rolled steel coil / sheet / plate -SPCE in CNBM


Our products enjoy an excellent reputation and have been exported to Europe, South-America, the Middle-East, Southeast-Asia, Africa and Russia etc.. We sincerely hope to establish good and long-term business relationship with your esteemed company.





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Q:What are surgical steel earrings ?
Surgical steel is a grade of steel often used in medical appliances like tweezers, forceps, etc. It's generally non-reactive and considered very safe. It doesn't contain any special properties against infection--you still have to observe basic hygiene and clean your piercings properly--but most people can wear surgical steel earrings without a problem. However, if you have a contact allergy to base metals like nickel, surgical steel may cause redness or irritation because of the metals used in it. If cheap rings or necklaces make your skin break out in a rash you should NOT wear surgical steel.
Q:keeping a stainless steel stove clean and shiney?
I have a combo of black and stainless in my kitchen; not sure which one is worse some days. For normal everyday stuff, hot, soapy (Dawn), clean dishwater and a microfiber cloth work great. For quick touch ups, a 50/50 mixture of window cleaner and rubbing alcohol also works great. The window cleaner gets the grease and the alcohol helps with streaks and makes the cleaner germ killing. Use with a microfiber cloth. For really nasty burned on stuff, I'd use a sponge with a non-stick cookware safe nylon scrub pad on it and some of the hot, soapy water. Just lay the damp sponge on the spot, let it soak a bit and see if it comes off. If not, try a little Barkeeper's Friend. Dampen, sprinkle, smear it around a little and let it soak for about 10 minutes. Then scrub with the sponge. Wipe up the residue with the microfiber cloth. The microfiber cloths are really key; they wipe more efficiently than any sponge, wipe, paper towel, dish rag. Get several and change them out frequently. You just wash and dry them; no fabric softener and you're ready to use them again. And it wouldn't hurt to keep a protective coat of a good stainless steel product on there either. That helps keep the stuff from getting such a good hold. But I've found that most of those are pretty bad at cleaning; so clean it first, then polish.
Q:Steel Tensile Strength?
I don't follow your calculations. It seems to me that the piece you show could be made from .01 steel and still be less than a pound. Also, it is hard to get steel thinner than .015 because anything thinner is not very useful. If you made it out of .015 steel and used a high strength steel, it might be useful. You wouldn't be bashing any skulls, but with some spikes on the end, it could do some damage, and protect against knives or other hand weapons. You also won't get any bullet resistance out of anything that thin. If you want to bash skulls and deflect bullets, you have to get up to at least .10 and several pounds. Any weight on your hands slows down the speed of your punch, but this is compensated for by the increased energy of impact carried by the extra mass. Also, having something hard to protect your hands allows for harder hits and more damage to the opponent. An interesting idea, but it would take some testing to figure out the optimum configuration. One problem I see is that it completely encloses the hand, making it impossible to use the hand for anything else. So you would have to put it on and take it off a lot, and there would be cases where you wouldn't be able to put it on when you needed it. For that reason, I would not wear two at one time. I would make it heavier and wear it on one hand for bashing skulls and deflecting weapons, and keep the other hand free for other things.
Q:Best Quality Steel...............!!?
In steel construction there are many standard types of steel used. Lots of different factors contribute to your steel choice. How tall is the building? Are you in an earthquake zone? Steel for the columns, or the beams? You might want to refer to the American Institute of Steel Construction for more information, they are the governing body in the US.
Q:damascus steel knife making?
Here's what you need, the cable should be a minimum of 9/16 with large wires. You need some borax (20 mule team from the store). A good hot coal, coke, or gas forge. If the cable has fiber rope in the center it will need to be removed. Fuse the ends of the cable to keep them from coming apart. I use my welder and while I'm at it I weld a handle to make it easier. Heat it in the forge when the forge is properly heated, rotate it. Some people will burn the oil out, but I've found that the forge does that just fine. Rotate the cable while it's heating. When it begins the turn red pull it out and sprinkle the borax over it, don't hold back use a lot. It will begin to melt and bubble into the steel. Put the cable back in the forge, rotate and watch. This is the critical part. When the steel starts to turn from orange/yellow to almost yellow/white take it out and lightly (I use a 2lb hammer) begin hammering the cable into a square or rectangle. If you do it right you'll notice that it will begin to fight the hammer, that's when you know the weld it taking place. You'll have to repeat the process down the length of the cable. Once you have the billet made you can begin the process of shaping the edge and tang. Once you have it shaped, follow proper forge procedure then grind all the yuck off and finish shaping. Then harden and temper and finish it out. Good luck. I almost forgot a very important part. Befor you start hammering put the cable in a vice while at welding temp (if you are strong you can use a couple of plyers) and twist it tight. On the next heat hold the cable in your left and and lay it on the anvil. Concentrate on your light hammer blows being on your side of the cable. This forces the cable strands together. If you are using smaller cable like 9/16 you can double the cable up and weld two peices together, it is easier and makes for a prettier blade. Doing this you don't have to worry about twisting the cable and you can hit it much harder to start with.
Q:What's the best material for color coated steel coil?
The base material of color coated coil is mainly galvanized steel or galvanized alloy steel plate.
Q:Man of Steel vs Superman (1978)?
Well, I haven't seen it Man of Steel but I really see it hard to believe that's better than Superman. To me, Superman with Christopher Reeve is the best movie about Superman ever made. When I first saw it I was amazed. Watching Superman flying for the first time, catching Loise and graving that helicopter before it falls... it was awesome! I loved it! The other movies that followed were bad but this one was amazing. I've seen what other actors have made with the character, but I believe Christopher was the best. He was the perfect man, the perfect gentleman and the best superhero ever. I know that this Superman is for the new generations so it will be more 'real' and more 'suffered' or will have more personal issues dealing with his origins and blah blah blah... and I wish him good luck, but honestly? I stick to the original Superman because whenever I see Christopher Reeve flying around the planet as Superman (hanging from wires-no CGI people!) and I hear that characteristic music I just melt and I'm a child once more. So good luck to the new generation, I really hope they like this new guy and new story, but I'm more than fine with the original version, thank you. Hope it helps! ;)
Q:Steel Strings or Nylons?
Kind of a silly question. I use steel strings on my steel string guitars and nylon strings on my classical guitar. It's not something you have any choice in; steel string guitars must use steel strings and classical guitar must use nylon strings.
Q:Stainless steel sword?
Anything sharp can kill. The serious problem with stainless steel swords is that they're brittle, cheap and ONLY meant for display, and nothing more.
Q:.308 steel cased ammo in my remington 7400?
Should you?...... Its a free country - You can do what you want....... Why shouldn't you?...... If I got it right - That Herters ammo is foreign made steel case ammo..... Most of that stuff has a reputation for being dirty and likes to foul semi-auto rifles up..... I suppose if you use a little of that stuff now and then it would be ok........ Usually that steel cased stuff is used by folks that own military style semi-0auto guns and bolt action rifles...... Those types of guns for the most part are well suited to use that cheap steel case...... A Remington 7400?..... This is just my opinion - but that's a hunting rifle and isn't up to the rigors of blasting a few hundred rounds of ammo off in an afternoon....... Get a different gun for that...... Occasional use?... Yeah its alright...... If this is for hunting use a better grade of brass cased ammo.......

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