Beautiful Products + Polished Porcelain Tile + Low Price 8281
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Guangzhou
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 PCS
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 PCS/month
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Basic Information of Polished Porcelain Tile CILO26608:
1.Size:60x60/80x80cm tile
2.Certificate:CE ISO
3.W.A. <0.5%
4.Material:Porcelain
Features of Polished Porcelain Tile CILO26608:
1. Size:600*600mm;800*800mm Porcelain tile
2.Various colors are available;Fashion and elegant pattern tile
3. Usage: use in Inner Floor.
4. Engobe(water proof)
5. Certificate:CE;ISO;SONCAP
6.Tile Minimum order: 1x20'FCL (items we have in stock can be mix loading)
7.Delivery Time : within 25 days after received 30% payment by TT
8.Payment term: L/C; T/T, 30% deposit, balance paid before loading.
9.Packing: standard carton with wooden pallet or per customers' request
- Q: Anyone know if that type of ceiling tile has asbestos? Unsure of the year built. It has a texture to it which is why I‘m worried about it.
- Like others have said it's imposable to tell without testing. Asbestos is very expensive to remove and the tile if left alone (kept sealed with paint) is safe.
- Q: How to calculate the loss of tiles
- Number of tiles = Room area of wall and floor tile / [(block length of long gray seam width) × (block width wide gray seam width)] × (1 loss rate) For example: the use of retro tiles specifications for the 0.5 × 0.5M, patchwork width of 0.002M, loss rate of 1%, 100 square meters need to use the number of: 100 square meters dosage = 100 / [(0.5 0.002) 0.002) x (1 0.01) is about equal to 401 pieces. Ps: Floor tiles in the precise accounting, taking into account the cutting loss, the purchase of additional 3% -5% of the amount of loss.
- Q: my boss wants to remove floor tiles and stain the cement floor underneath the tile, what is a easy way to remove the old tile
- It's according to your budget, the size of your arms and the shape your back is in. A 2 1/2 wide masons chisel and a 4 lb hammer will get it done about as fast as you can do it, if your body is up to it. If you have an air compressor you can buy an air chisel at Big Lots, Walmart, etc., for around 20 bucks and that will get the job done, along with the first answer for the real stubborn places as easy as you are going to do it. It will take at least a 2 or 3 hp compressor. Check the cubic feet per minute on both it and the chisel. I have done it using both when the compressor really wasn't large enough. When it runs low on air, grab the hammer and let the pressure build up. One last bit of info. Get you a little creeper seat or build you one that keeps your tail about 8 to 12 inches above the floor. You DO NOT WANT TO BE DOING IT ON YOUR KNEES. If you are a young buck like I used to be, when you get to be an old man like I am now, you will pay for it. Trust me, I am on disability now because of what I used to think was OK to do. Your body only has so many miles for it. Keep the speed down, if you know what I mean. Save something for the good times. And yes, mastic is glue. Good to put down but the worst to get back up.
- Q: I‘m installing 13x13 floor tile on a slab. Any tips on how to do it right
- If your not overly familiar with doing tile a diagonal isn t the easiest to start on. Lay out and proper tools are a big help in your preplanning. Right size trowel and large enough wet saw and had cutter is a must. Get the longest straight site line and split the room in 1/2 with a chalk line. Lay tile back to the wall and figure the size of pc(pcs) you need. You can cut a few of these pcs as a starting point. Knowing you split the room you should be equal when you get to the other side. A perfect straight edge will help keep your lines straight. Use this on all sides as you build out from that wall and lay as though your doing a straight lay just that your on a 45 degree. Or if you are doing an open ended area , you can cut several tiles in 1/2 and work back. A bit trickier but overall look is better. Don t cut tiles directly in 1/2, you must cut just off center if this is a starting point. Very hard to do and takes experience. Any specific questions you can e mail me through my avatar and check my qualifications there. GL
- Q: This is what I need some information on. I decided to put some floor tile in front of my door in my living room where some carpet is. So what size should I cut out of the carpet where I‘m going to put the tile ? If you have any advice how I should go about this just let me know. You no something like the dos as well as the don‘ts
- Well the size is really up to you, I would probably keep it in a neat rectangle or square though, only as wide as the door is, but that's hardly a requirement. What kind of tile is it though, cause the installation will vary greatly depending on that. Need a bit more info =)
- Q: We had glass tile installed in our kitchen and it looks wavy. Our installer said it was an optical illusion which I disagree with. I noticed it as it was being installed and that he did not use spacers. Wouldn‘t that have allowed the tiles to move before they were grouted?
- Wavy Glass Tile
- Q: i have ceramic tile on my countertop and i do not like it and i was wondering if i could put a countertop on top of the tile? i just want to know what my inexpensive route will be. i do not have a lot of money to have things done. just want to know what my options would be.
- yes. There is going to be some prep work needed first, and what that will be wil depend on what kind of countertop you are going to be using. You might want to add that information to your question. In most cases a sheet of plywood cut to size, and installed over the existing ceramic will do nicely
- Q: Okay, I‘m doing a tub surround with porcelain tile. Got the last cut around the fixtures that requires a hole to be cut in the center of the tile. Long story short, I‘ve busted 22 tiles trying. I‘ve tried every single drill bit I‘ve got. Everything from metal hole punchers to concrete bits. Nothing even scratches this porcelain tile. Any tips on how to punch a hole in this tile? I‘m desperate!
- I've installed a lot of tile in my time and I'm a bit confused with some details in your Q. You state you understand the tiles NEED to be cut with a wet saw, which by the way isn't the only tool that works,,, and yet in the same sentence you state you HAD A PLAY?? and tiles chipped? I'll assume that maybe that's a coloquialism? Keep in mind that while porcelain is slightly different in the way the tiles are produced, it's still fired/glazed clay...Essentially Glass. Porcelain often has the tile color and grain running all the way through the tile. The design aids in chips being less visible. In tiling any area all cuts should be at the perimeters, or in areas where a column must be cut around, etc. The pieces of tile should have been crafted with the edges slightly depressed from the rest of the face of the tile, allowing for grouting. One answer has a good suggestion, in the mechanics of a wet saw. Whether or not you rented/borrowed/or bought one, the blade should be new, or nearly new, for every new job. The water dispersal should be even and constant during operation. Any guides should be secure to allow a square/non binding cut. I have various tools I use, always save the cuts for the last, and actually use a Di-Grinder with a Diamond blade, as often as I use the wet saw. Steven Wolf
- Q: Two tiles are randomly chosen one at a time and placed in the order in which they were chosen. Determine the probability that the tiles are:i.COii.Both vowels
- Probability of CO: 1/(7*6) = 1/42 Combos of Vowels: 3*2 = 6 Probability of 2 Vowels: 6/42 = 3/21 = 1/7
- Q: I am tiling my bathroom and in the process of re-tiling the shower stall. I removed the old plastic liner there and now some of the glue remains on the greenboard. Also, some of the green part of the board is ripped of from when the glue came off with the old liner. Some of the paper is flakey in spots. I pulled off some of the loose pieces, but there is more. Now, I‘m an amateur. I was told to use some grout sealer to go over the greenboard. However, since there are flakey pieces of paper from the greenboard on there still, should I simply remove as much as I can before sealing and tiling? Will the seal glue these flakey pieces down and make them secure for tiling? What is your advice? Many thanks!
- If you have gone that far, I would either tear out the greenboard and replace it with cement board, or you might be able to cement board right over the greenboard. The cement board will outlast the next 50 familys that will use that bathroom. It is great stuff, well worth the effort. Don't try patching the greenboard, it is not worth the effort. Do it right and be done with it forever.
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Beautiful Products + Polished Porcelain Tile + Low Price 8281
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Guangzhou
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 100 PCS
- Supply Capability:
- 100000 PCS/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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