• Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling Well Quality 20mm System 1
  • Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling Well Quality 20mm System 2
  • Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling Well Quality 20mm System 3
Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling Well Quality 20mm

Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling Well Quality 20mm

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
3000 m²
Supply Capability:
10000 m²/month

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Fiberglass Ceiling

The tiles are manufactured from high density fiberglass wool.The visible face has a decorative fiberglass tissue and the back of the tile is covered with normal tissue.The four edges of the tile are sealed and have grooves. It can be jointed together without suspended system. The tiles will cover the suspension system after installation. They are are suitable for loe flap ceiling space and concrete-made, wooded-made or gymsum ceiling.

 

Installation method:

Use screw to fix the smooth roof. The tiles can be connected after making grooves on each two jointed edges.

Tiles are easy to trim and install

Both inches and metric grids are available

 

Main Characteristic:

Non-combustible

No sagging,wrapping or delaminating

Green building material

Excellent sound absorption

 

Application:

Halls,classrooms,offices,shopping centers.etc.

 

Acoustic fiberglass ceiling contains a better perfomance in tension strong, light weight, so it is easy to trim and install for interior decoration, with T-grids for suspension system or glue, nail or good material could come with fiberglass ceiling baord. Thus an excellent artical work need a high quality acoustic ceiling board, also high quality.

 

Energysaving is a trend for our 21' era, new product like fiberglass ceiling tile could in place of traditional products one day. Which depends on functional characters: little deflection of geometry dimention, no radiocative property, specific activity of 226Ra: Ira ≤1.0 and specific activity of 226 Ra 232 Th, 40 K: Ir ≤ 1.3. Both products and packages can be recycled.

 

Q:while checking wiring in ceiling fixtures, some fiberglass fell. I vacuumed it up. how dangerous is it? we have kids here and nothing was covered as we didn't expect that.
For no more than you could have dropped out of a ceiling lite fixture there's no problem at all. You did the right thing, just sweep it up and dispose of it when you dump the bag. There's no danger of any contamination from that small an amount of fiberglass.
Q:wool /foil/fibtreglassim lost what would be the best as in cooler at summer and warmer in winter
fiberglass for sure. Foil-faced batt insulation is often used in cathedral ceilings because it has a 0.5 perm rating, providing the permeability rating often required for use in ceilings without attic spaces. A vent baffle should be installed between the insulation and the roof decking to maintain the ventilation channel.
Q:What is the difference between PVC and nylon?
First, PVC: chemical name PVC, sub-rigid polyvinyl chloride and soft polyvinyl chloride. High mechanical strength, chemical properties of vinyl chloride (code-named PVC) is a vinyl chloride monomer polymerization from the synthetic polymer. Polyvinyl chloride is a white or light yellow powder resin, the density of about 1.4, chlorine content of 56% to 58%. In the polyvinyl chloride resin by adding different plasticizers and stabilizers, can be made of different rigid polyvinyl chloride and soft polyvinyl chloride. Polyvinyl chloride itself is a linear polymer, because the attraction between the molecules is very large, combined with each other close and solid, making the polymer chain is not free, so hard texture. When the resin is not added or less (10% or less) plasticizer, get the hard PVC. Hard PVC high density, with acid, alkali and corrosion resistance of the excellent performance, it is often used as chemical equipment, pipe and construction panels, such as flooring, ceiling and so on. When adding more plasticizer in the resin, you can get soft polyvinyl chloride, plasticizer plus more, the more flexible the plastic. Soft PVC with flexibility, resistance to folding, light, water, oxidation resistance, it is often used to make thin film and wire foreskin and so on. Most of the PVC products in daily life are soft polyvinyl chloride, such as PVC made of leather widely used in clothing, footwear, suitcases, purses and so on. If you add a blowing agent to the polyvinyl chloride plastic, you can make the foam. It has a light weight, thermal insulation, noise and other excellent performance, widely used in footwear, building materials, ship and aircraft manufacturing and other industries.
Q:what is ceiling soundproofing?
A soundproofing ceiling is a ceiling that has been designed to cut down on the noise that is transferred from overhead to the area below a soundproof ceiling is a nose addition for people who live in apartment , but surprisingly many people who live in private home are also interesting in soundproof their ceiling
Q:Cast-in-place floor (ceiling position) Reinforcement protective layer is not enough, local steel exposed. I intend to use epoxy resin mortar
If not skilled, epoxy resin mortar is not good to paint. And grass-roots bonding is a problem, the level of skilled workers is also a problem. Suggest, 1, steel rust to be completely, or the same burst open; 2, carbon fiber reinforcement approach, that is, epoxy resin plus fiberglass cloth, professional construction. Quality assurance, the effect is much better than their own configuration of epoxy resin mortar. In addition, crack prevention. This method of handling is a formal approach that can be changed by design. 3, the surface putty putty, it is finished.
Q:Home improvement waterproofing process and what is the standard
1, waterproof construction should be used for waterproof coating materials. 2, waterproof material performance should be consistent with the provisions of the relevant national standards, and product certification should be a certificate. 3, the base surface should be flat, no hollowing, from the sand, cracking and other defects. Base water content should meet the construction requirements of waterproof materials. The waterproof layer should extend from the ground to the wall, 250mm above the ground. Bathroom wall waterproof layer height of not less than 1800mm. 4, waterproof cement mortar leveling layer and foundation with dense, no hollowing, the surface smooth and smooth, no cracks, from the sand, yin and yang angle made of circular arc. 5, coated with waterproof coating evenly, the thickness of the technical requirements to meet the requirements of the general thickness of not less than 1.5mm not exposed at the end. 6, the use of construction stubble should be along the direction of water lap, lap width of not less than 100mm, the use of two or more fiberglass cloth up and down lap when the width should be staggered one-half. 7, the coating surface is not blistering, no flow, smooth no bumps, and pipe fittings, sanitary ware to the ground, floor drain, drain seams tightly rounded without leakage. 8, the protective layer of cement mortar thickness, strength must meet the design requirements, the operation is strictly prohibited damage to the waterproof layer, according to the design requirements of the ground water slope, drainage should be smooth, no water back slope phenomenon. 9, waterproofing works after completion, must do 24 hours water storage test.
Q:Bought a house about a year ago, and the basement ceiling is stuffed with fiberglass insulation. It's warm in the basement, especially the room where the furnace is, but we hardly ever use it.I'm wondering if all that insulation is trapping the heat the furnace gives off while it runs, preventing it from rising upstairs? Would it be worth removing it myself or just let it all stay in the ceiling? If you recommend removal what's the best way to dispose of it?Thanks!
i would just leave it for the sound barrier alone but thats just me, it really shouldnt have any bearing on the heat for the above floor, unless the floor above has radiant heating tubes underneath than you should definatelly leave it in but other wise dont worry about it .
Q:I would like to open the interior decoration materials shop need to enter what goods? How much cost? Where is the supply?
The general hardware, such as cement and cement full enough
Q:Hi, about 2 weeks ago I was in my ex boyfriend's attic (with his permission! lol) and he noticed a crack, which turned into a hole when I slipped and almost fell through into the bedroom! If you lie in bed you can now see right through to the attic; while it could be considered a design feature, my ex isn't keen on it :-) It's not very big, probably only 1.5ft square if that but obviously the plaster is missing, one of the lathes (think that's what they're called; the thin pieces of wood just behind the plaster) is broken in half and poking throught he hole and little bits of the fibreglass indsulation are falling down. My ex told his landlord who said it would cost ?150 to repair the damage, but I'm convinced my ex could do it himself...but how? Any ideas? I have been offered a large piece of plasterboard, could he use this in any way and would he have to enlarge the hole to replace the entire lathe? How does he replaster...etc - help please!
well buy the screen thingy and then put the spakel on top then paint over it that is how you do it
Q:I am doing some minor remodeling on a house. I wanted texture on the walls but didn't want to deal with the mess (and expertise required) of spray texture, so I'm creating a custom texture on the walls by hand using lite joint compound and a 12" taping knife. My question is: what do I do on the ceilings? Can I do the same thing on the walls, or will I kill my back (especially if it needs sanding). I've heard of people wrapping a small piece of plywood in plastic and using it to apply joint compound to the ceiling such that it creates little stalactites that you knock down after they have hardened slightly. That sounds difficult to get uniform across the entire ceiling.What should I do?
Wow, that's really out of style now, and a big project that is very hard or impossible to change down the road. But hey, you have your own style, thats just my opinion. If you really want to go through with this, DO NOT use joint compound!! It's not designed for this and will crack over time, especially from the lightest bumps that walls sustain, plus houses do move a tiny bit from expansion, contraction, humidity, and settling. This will surely crack the joint compound. I would use a texture thats designed for this, and its more like a plaster, much harder. They sell these special texture mixes at most paint stores and design stores, and also sell different applicators, from sponge applicators that you dab, to grooved spreaders that you swirl. You could always try using regular paint with different texture-like results, that aren't permanent if you change your mind years from now. You can sponge a colored paint to look cool, and they sell special rollers that give a texture pattern.

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