• Turbocharger Application Komatsu KTR110 Turbo 6505-65-5030 System 1
  • Turbocharger Application Komatsu KTR110 Turbo 6505-65-5030 System 2
  • Turbocharger Application Komatsu KTR110 Turbo 6505-65-5030 System 3
Turbocharger Application Komatsu KTR110 Turbo 6505-65-5030

Turbocharger Application Komatsu KTR110 Turbo 6505-65-5030

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
50000 unit/month

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Technical Details



OEM  NO6505-65-50306505-52-5413
applicationKomatsu D155  
EngineS6D140



Product Description


Turbocharger Application Komatsu KTR110 Turbo 6505-65-5030

Turbocharger Application Komatsu KTR110 Turbo 6505-65-5030

Turbocharger Application Komatsu KTR110 Turbo 6505-65-5030




Factory Show


  • Certified by ISO 9001:2009 and ISO/TS 16949:2008 standards, CNBM is a leading manufacturer and exporter of Turbochargers and Racing products in China since 1994.

  • Producing TURBOCHARGERS of Garrett, Holset, KKK, Schwitzer, MHI and IHI models. Totally 300 different models, exporting to over 30 countries incl. EU, North & South America, Middle East & etc..

Turbocharger Application Komatsu KTR110 Turbo 6505-65-5030

Turbocharger Application Komatsu KTR110 Turbo 6505-65-5030

Turbocharger Application Komatsu KTR110 Turbo 6505-65-5030

Turbocharger Application Komatsu KTR110 Turbo 6505-65-5030

Turbocharger Application Komatsu KTR110 Turbo 6505-65-5030

Turbocharger Application Komatsu KTR110 Turbo 6505-65-5030



Packing & Delivery


Packing Detail:

  • Neutal Packing or the package as requirement

  • One turbo in a Carton

  • Wooden case is a good choice for ocean shipping

Delivery Detail:7-30 Days.(As Per Quantity)



Specifications


  • High Speed, higher torque and improved response.

  • Lower Fuel Consumption.

  • Turbo and all its parts 100% changeable with original.

  • Perfect Follow-up Service



In Addition,we are also business in parts of Turbocharger such as:

  • Turbine Housing

  • Compressor Housing/Cover

  • Bearing Housing

  • Repair Kits

  • CHRA

  • Valve

  • Shaft Wheel 

  • Compressor Wheel/Impeller


Q:Know of any online videos that show how to intall a cold air intake system? Preferably a Honda. but ill take anything
ok i don't know the video site but i know the steps1st you have to lift the car with a jack from the front passanger side. next remove the tire from this side. because you have to take off the plastic under fender. next once this if off take out the bottom of the original factory intake. its a pain in the but to take this out with the tire on and the rubber under fender on as well. ok now remove the top half of the intake box completely all bolts screws everythingput all the blots in screws in place u can find them later as your going to beed them.now take off the rubber hose going into the throttle body, and remove all vacume lines and sensors. next put on the rubber cup that goes to the throttle body. tighten it. the cold air intake kit sends a rubber protector that is bog enough to fit inside the hole where you removed the top of the intake box. the round circle should be covered by this rubber so you have to make the rubber fit in and completely around the circle because the rubber has a cut in it and basically holds on while your pushing it around the circle. next put the first pipe into the throttle body this pipe has a minor bend in it. irs shorter than the other. next make sure you put the next rubber coupling on to the pipe you just attacedsecure this tightly as wellsome kits have a bypass others don'tso now last peice the long one goes down into the hole. now put the cone filter on. connect all the vaccume lines back on to the new pipes and sensors. put the rubber under fender back on and the tire. final step is to reset the batteryif you don't reset the battery it might cause check engine light to go on. now turn it on for like 109 min. then it should be ready but if check engine light goes on just unplug the battery and reset it again. this should cure it.finally your done.
Q:I recently bought a cold air intake for my 2008 Mustang and i washed it today and noticed some water in the CAD box and a little on the plastic piece at the end of the filter. Is there a way prevent water from getting onto the filter or is this not a huge deal?The Intake I have is the Airaid 450-177
Water is a big deal only if the intake filter is submerged. Drops of water are not a big deal. People run water/meth in cars through the intake all the time.
Q:What is the type of air flow sensor in the intake system?
Air flow sensor according to its structure type can be divided into leaves (wing) type, measuring core type, hot wire type, hot film type, card door scroll type, etc. Air flow sensor, also known as air flow meter, is the EFI engine , Which converts the sucked air flow into an electrical signal to an electronic control unit (ECU) as one of the basic signals for determining the fuel injection, which is a sensor for measuring the air flow rate of the suction engine.
Q:I wan to buy the injen cold air intake for my Nissan maxima but i don‘t know if it will be worth the money i was hoping someone had it and would let me know how it is workingand if it really gives you that extra HP and torque
what happens is the aero on the cars affect what happens then you got the draft which keeps the car running on the ground with aer but when the car gets sideways that allows enough air to get underneath the car and pick it up which enables the car to flip through the air
Q:I have a 2003 Nissan 350z and I‘m looking to get a cold air intake. I‘ve done some research and I think I‘d like to go with the Injen cold air intake. I‘ve also read that heavy rain could be a problem though incase the engine sucks the water up. Has anyone had any problems with this? And would the Injen Hydroshield be enough? Thank You!
well frankly if you open the hood and look at the factory air filter and housing, this is a cold air intake from the factory, for the most part cold air intakes are expensive crap, you happen to have a car, that is more performance oriented, you may see some gain, but in the 3500 to 5000 rpm range for the amount of money the cold air intake is, and the fact that water will not compress, and if even a little gets in a high performance engine, you are screwed my suggestion is save your money, leave the air intake alone, those sooper dooper pooper scooper power chips are more marketing hype than anything else, if you change any of the performance parameters of your car, you usually lose something important like longevity or the life of the engine, which means you rebuild the engine sooner when it burns up. keep it like it is from the factory, you will have less problems and you will not feel so bad when it does not work, and you wasted hundreds of dollars for a sewer pipe with an air filter stuck on it.
Q:I want to put a KN Cold Air Intake on my 2001 Ford Explorer Sport Trac. If I install it myself, will I need to do anything to my computer? Or can I just put it in and go?
WOW, a 96 Cutlass with 22s. ROFL!
Q:Does the Air intake help with better gas mileage. If so what is a good brand to go with. I also want to keep the performance and still get better gas mileage.
The best air intake for your car is the one that was designed for your car by the manufacturer. After market cold air intakes are nothing but a scam. They do absolutely nothing positive for your car except make it sound different. Cold air intakes don't work because your fuel and air mixture is controlled by the car computer and any change to the stock intake will result in problems with your engine sensors. The computer will see any change to the intake as a problem to correct by attempting to adjust the fuel / air mixture to the original factory settings that it was programmed to maintain.
Q:I want to put in a cold air intake on my 2006 Honda Civic, i have been looking at some forums and have noticed that people say that cold air intakes can hydrolock. I have been seeing mixed views some say that the CAI will only hydrolock if it is submerged while others say otherwise. I want to put in a DC Sports CAI5525, i want to know if hydrolocking is a problem and if it is, is there any way to prevent that by not putting in a bypass valve (Which decreases power and i really don‘t want to saw the piping in half) Also on the description on the site where i want to buy it its says [Factory Air Box Retained: Yes] what does this mean?
The number one complaint for aftermarket cold air intakes is loss of fuel economy; the number two complaint is hydrolock. We have answered questions here about repairing engines that hydrolocked when the car was just driven through an unexpectedly large puddle with an aftermarket cold air intake. There is no value in aftermarket cold air intakes. They are relics of the 1960s and 1970s, when most cars drew engine air from above the engine. By 1990 every car I know about was fitted with a cold air intake that is better and more sophisticated than any affordable aftermarket intakes on the market.
Q:i want to put cold air intake on her, but be fore i send the money on it i just want to know what it will do. Thanks
In theory, a cold air intake relocates the air filter to a place of higher pressure and lower temperatures than the engine bay. Colder air equals more dense air, which allows the engine to burn more fuel, and make more power. In theory, and really in practice this works great. The problem is, many don't do a great job of keeping the air as cold as it could. There are a couple misconceptions that were subjected as fact in the previous answers. One is that a KN filter will do the same thing as a full cold air intake. This is false. You can see a gain with just a filter, but because of the way the stock mustang intakes are designed, there's so much turbulence and a lack of laminar airflow, that velocity hurts, and reduces power. An aftermarket intake can make an improvement in power simply from smoothing out the path for the air to follow from the filter to the intake manifold. Another is that the results are inflated. The tests I've seen were on 100% stock engines, not internally modified as someone else suggested. I have seen as much as 12whp made from a good quality intake on a stock mustang. You also didn't say what model mustang you had, if it was a V6, GT or cobra. Cobra's tend to be restricted the most, and V6s the least. One thing that someone else said was that they aren't worth the money. To an effect, that's true. $250-300 is cheap in the realm of modifications and can help if you plan to do more N/A work in the future, or just want bolt-on performance, but if you plan on going more expensive forced induction in the future, it's not a wise investment. If you have a V6 and get a good CAI, you could see a 4-6whp increase.not a lot, and nothing you will feel, you will just hear it. V8s will get anywhere from 8-12whp, but you still won't feel it. With the right mixture of parts, you can get a good amount of power, and a retune would help a lot in addition to intake and exhaust modifications.

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