Prepainted galvanized steel coil N

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Product Description:

Product Name: PPGI ,PREPAINTED STEEL COIL,COLOR COATED STEEL COIL
* Base Material: Al-Zn Galvanized Steel Coil.//SGLCC
* Top side: 15-25 microns primer microns polyester.
* Back side: 5-8 microns primer epoxy.
* Width:700-,1250mm (The special width 914mm,1219mm,1220mm will be available )
* Thickness:0.17 -1.0mm    Thickness tolerance: +/- 0.02mm
* Al-Zn coating: 30-150g /sq.m. or can be provided as clients' requirements
* Color: All RAL colour is available or customer supplying the sample
* Inner diameter of coil: 508mm&610mm.
* Packing: Standard seaworthy packing or according to user's need.
* Weight of each coil: 9 tons max

* Guarantee/ warranty
*Delivery time: Within 10-20 days.


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Q:Heat treatment of mild steel? Process description macro-micro
Mild steel is a solution of carbon within iron, etc. When the steel is very hot the carbon is well distributed. As the steel is cooled iron crystals form excluding the carbon that will then collect at the boundaries (grain boundaries) between iron crystals. If cooling is rapid at any point in the cool down crystal growth will cease (affecting final grain size and the mix of carbon and iron at the grain boundaries). The ductility or hardness of the resulting steel will be determined by the grain sizes and makeup of the carbon/iron mix between grains. Ductile iron permits 'slabs' of iron to slip past each other within iron crystals and location of carbon atoms may help prevent slip resulting in hardness. Therefore, heat treatment usually consists of 'soaking' the steel at a temperature high enough to dissolve all the carbon uniformly then cooling it down slowly or rapidly to obtain optimum grain size and interstitial carbon between grains to obtain desired properties.
Q:What is mild steel and what items are made from it?
Mild steel is what your friends get when they see your mom's cleavage.
Q:Permanently expanding steel?
You can calculate the maximum reversible strain, for elastic loading as follows: You need to look up the yield strength (for that particular type of steel). Divide this yield strength by the elastic modulus of steel (also called Young's modulus). That gives you the strain at the onset of yielding, the maximum you can strain the steel fibers before crossing the point of no return. If you are interested in the strain until failure, you need to take tensile test measurements. Seldom do people document an equation to model the non-elastic portion of the stress-strain curve of the specimen, because seldom do we design systems to operate with materials which yield. We want systems which only deform reversibly and elastically. This means you need to perform an experiment to find what you are actually desiring to know.
Q:Which do u like better rolled oats or steel cut oats? and why?
Steel cut oats take very long to cook. They have a bit more bite to them but the flavor is really the same. It's more a question of which texture you prefer.
Q:What kind of chemistry do stainless steel golf clubs have?
Stainless steel is a mixture of metals, each metal is included in order to make up for each others weaknesses. Each metal is included due to a property that is benificial in some way, for instance Chromium is included because it makes the stainless steel 'stainless'. In chemistry a mixture of metals, stainless steel, is called an alloy.
Q:Are steel doors insulated?
Steel doors are insulated,but will feel cold in the winter.Feel all around the door weather stripping area and the seal at the bottom of the door to see if air is getting in.
Q:Carbon Steel/ Stainless Steel knives?
There are different grades of Carbon Steel. A good grade is much harder than Stainless Steel and will stay sharp longer. It is also many times harder to get an edge on than Stainless Steel. I have had both and prefer the Stainless Steel because eventually the Carbon Blade does get dull, and you will wear out a Whet Stone trying to put the edge back on it. The Stainless Steel holds an edge an acceptable amount of time and is easier to sharpen when the time comes. Putting either knife through a can opener sharpener will ruin the edge and make it almost impossible to put another edge on the knife. Look closely and determine the angel of the bevel, then lay the knife bevel flat on a good whet stone and try to take a thin slice off of the stone. Turn the knife over and do the other side so you keep the edge centered on the blade. Keep turning the knife over and taking thin slices until it is sharp. Dress with a good quality sharpening steel.
Q:Chemical equation for steel?
I hate to differ but I must. Steel is a mixture of iron and carbon but the carbon content ranges from a small fraction of a percent to no more than 2%. Stainless steel is an alloy of Iron and up to 15% or so of other metals but since there are several types and many varieties in each type it's hardly worth getting into. A good common hardenable high-carbon spring steel is AISI 1095. In this code the 95 refers to 0.95% carbon. When the carbon level goes up to 1.5% to 2% the steel is very brittle and black with the highest carbon steel being pretty much pig-iron.
Q:Steel Research?
Your okorder.com (they make steel deck and steel joists) There are thousands of other items routinely produced from steel, including rebar, and all the metal in cars, airplanes, and about a million other things.
Q:How to temper steel? ?
Heat treating easy, HA! It is the most critical part of bladesmithing. Done wrong and all those hours of work go up in smoke (or a snap of the steel). You'll need a bucket of oil, preferably one that is deep enough to go in point first. If not you'll have to go in edge first, not recommended on a double edged blade, ok for single edge. You'll need to build a charcoal fire long enough for the blade. You will need to blow air under the fire to get it hot enough, the challenge is getting the heat even. You get the fire going and established, put the blade in turning it back and forth (if you keep turning it in the same direction when it heats up you could work a twist in it). When it starts turning red pull it out and touch it with a magnet, if the magnet sticks put it back. Keep heating and repeating until the magnet no longer sticks. Heat a little more, then quench rapidly point first. Don't let the blade lean to one side as warpage will occur. When it cools enough to touch, check with a file. If the doesn't file cut then you've properly hardened the steel and it's ready for temper. Now comes the really hard part. Grind the scale off carefully,preferably with a side grinder with a flap wheel. I've had hard wheel break freshly hardened blades. After cleaning you'll need to put it in an oven (preferred) or use a torch and carefully heat the blade. Watch the temper colors (oven temp 500-550F) or with the torch as the steel turns colors blue to purple for a double edged weapon. Any warpage that occurs needs to be worked out at temping temp.

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