Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil High Quality

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50 m.t.
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1. Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil Description:

With GI as base material, after pretreatment (degrease and chemical treatment ) and liquid dope with several layers of color, then after firing and cooling, finally the plate steel is called pre-painted galvanized (aluzinc) steel. Pre-painted galvanized steel is good capable of decoration, molding, corrosion resistance. It generally displays superior workability, durability and weather resistance.

2.Main Features of the Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil:

• Excellent process capability

• Smooth and flat surface

• Workability, durability

• Excellent heat resistance performance

• High strength

• Good formability

• Good visual effect

 

3.Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil Images

 

 

4.Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil Specification

Standard: AISI, ASTM, BS, DIN, GB, JIS

Grade: DX51D, DX52D

Thickness: 0.17-2.0mm

Brand Name: KMRLON

Model Number: coil

Type: Steel Coil

Technique: Cold Rolled

Surface Treatment: Coated

Application: Boiler Plate

Special Use: High-strength Steel Plate

Width: 20-1250mm

Length: customized

commoidty: pre-painted galvanized steel coil

Thickness: 0.13-4.0mm

width: 20-1250mm

zinc coating: 40-180g/m2

printing thickness: top side: 20+/-5 microns, back side: 5-7 microns

color: all RAL color

surface treatment: color coated

coil weight: 4-7 tons

coil ID: 508/610mm

packaging: standard seaworthy packing

5.FAQ of Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil

What’s the application of this product?

Roof, roof structure, surface sheet of balcony, frame of window, etc.

What’s the brand of the paint?

We use the best brand of all of the word—AKZO.

 

 

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Q:how is stainless steel produced?
There are different recipes, and different types of steel are made for different purposes. They all share high temperatures, which allows extra carbon to bind with the iron. This is the main thing that makes steel stainless, or rustproof. Other metals such as chromium, molybdenum, magnesium etc. are often added to increase tensile (twisting) strength, flexibility, etc.
Q:Is stainless steel magnetic?
There are many types of stainless steel. Some are magnetic and some are non-magnetic. The magnetic properties of stainless steel are very dependent on the elements added into the alloy, and specifically the addition of nickel can change the structure from magnetic to non-magnetic. Poor heat treatment or high heat input welding of normal or high carbon austenitic stainless steels will cause sensitization, ie formation of chromium carbides. The formation of carbides not only reduces the corrosion resistance of the stainless steel but also tends to form martensite around the carbide. This martensite is magnetic and the more severe the sensitisation, the stronger are the magnetic properties. When nickel is added, for instance, the austenite structure of iron is stabilized. This crystal structure makes such steels non-magnetic and less brittle at low temperatures. Martensitic stainless steels are magnetic. *Wrought, austenitic stainless steels, such as 304 and 316, are generally regarded as non-magnetic in the annealed condition, ie they are not attracted significantly by a magnet. However, if they are cold worked they will be attracted to a permanent magnet. The change occurs because the cold work deformation induces a transformation of the microstructure from austenite to martensite. The effect is less marked in alloys with high concentrations of austenite stabilisers such as nickel, nitrogen and carbon. Once the martensite is formed, it may also become magnetised. *In contrast to the austenitic alloys, ferritic stainless steels such as 409 or 3Cr12/5Cr12 and martensitic stainless steels such as 420, are strongly attracted to a magnet even in the annealed state. The duplex and super-duplex stainless steels will also be strongly attracted because they contain about 50% ferrite in their microstructure. *
Q:Why is steel denser than wood?
Steel is basically a mixture (not the compound) of iron and carbon. Iron, by itself is an element and so is carbon. The atoms of Iron are larger in size compared to carbon. All the atoms of all the elements, smaller or larger, are spherical. If naturally a solid, the atoms of all such elements have voids as their atoms are closely packed. You can imagine a basket of oranges; you could see that void or empty space (which I am speaking about) between four or more of the oranges put together. Now, when heated to more than about 1500 degrees celcius, Iron melts and atoms in molten form increase space between themselves. Raising the teperature to 1800 degree celcius, carbon is mixed with iron. At this stage it causes the spherical carbon atoms to fill in the spaces present amongst the spherical atoms of the iron. On cooling, already dense iron becomes denser because no space is left there between its atoms. This denser form of iron + carbon has become steel in which carbon is not more than 3 to 4% of the total volume. Wood is nothing but a fallen and dried tree's part. When green and alive, tree's stem and branches have pores in there texture, which are fillled with water and other biological fluids necessary for the life of the plant. When dried all the fluids, especially water gets evaporated. and the pore are empty now. The term Density, means mass divided by volume (kg / cubic meters). Iron + Carbon (the steel) so tightly packed and Iron having very high atomic weight is surely denser than wood with just carbon and a few other elements with no significant role to play in the mass calculation; particularly if their are empty pore spaces filled with air only. Imagine the mass (which common people mistakingly call the weight) in kilograms of a peice of steel with dimensions of 1 meter cube and imagine the same for the dried wood. What do you think---which one is denser?
Q:Edward Humphrey wants to know... Can I use steel roofing on an older house?
ed like others have said yes you can and its relatively simple to do. ? is it steal you want or would to plastic they call it work. we've done several around here in central Illinois and we've done both. as far as putting boards under the metal we've only done that on one, usally you start at a bottom corner, work your way across the roof and up just as you do shingles, remember though unlike shingles these don't have any sealing strips, so under each overlap before putting the piece on you need to put a sealer bead on. the tubes from your local lumber yard work just fine. just remember dont hurry yourself into making mistakes and forgetting anything. i don't know if you have helpers but generally you can hire a high school kid to help put this on. it isn't really that hard.use whats called a barn screw to hold it onto your existing roof,( they are color coated, and have rubber gaskets) so no leaks where fastened unlike nails.
Q:how steel structures can withstand earthquake?
Some buildings are built on giant springs so they wobble when there's an earthquake but don't try to ride it out.
Q:Steel Building Construction.............?
Rather depends on the construction method. I've seen a lot of buildings with a steel exterior referred to as 'steel construction', when in fact they had timber framing - not steel. Recently, in my neck of the woods, we had an ice/snow storm, and many timber framed steel buildings collapsed, because of the weight on the roof. A case of not enough pitch on the roof, and not strong enough construction. The fact that there were many that collapsed, tells me the standards for this region are not high enough, hehehe. How a building is finished inside will also affect how fire resistant it is, let alone, the many other factors that come into play, such as wiring, gas lines, and what is actually done (or contained) inside the building. All details not provided. Better Questions Yield Better Answers. Good Luck
Q:stainless steel coating?
No, it's not possible. Quite apart from the chemistry which would prevent it occurring, the aluminium has a far greater rate of thermal expansion than stainless steel, so any coating wouldn't last.
Q:Why was molton steel found at ground zero?
WTC 7 was not built with a central core like the two big towers were, which allowed it to come down a lot easier than the other two. And the planes didn't have to melt the steel structure holding up the buildings, all they had to do was weaken these structures to where they could no longer hold the weight. RE: Ok fine, since this is what you claim, where are the actual proven facts for this molten steel? Because I have noticed you have no link to a legitimate source available. Still no links to anything legitimate. And 2 thumbs down? Wow, I must be special.
Q:steel helmet protection?
Steel helmets were made to stop shrapnel; steel fragments from artillery bursts. They were never meant to stop bullets and most modern rifle rounds will penetrate a steel helmet with ease. The US went to Kevlar helmets for lighter weight and better ballistic protection. Some helmets will deflect handgun rounds. Over half of combat injuries were caused by artillery, so the thinking was to reduce head injuries from shrapnel.
Q:Bendable steel for crossbow bow.?
So i do know way more about compound bows than I do about crossbows, but i'm going to enterprise an opinion. For my part, i would probably lean toward the compound bow. A part of it's only that i like them higher. However, moreover to that, more often than not when you find yourself hunting you will carry the crossbow loaded, on the grounds that the are typically awkward to load when you have the shot. If you're hunting from a blind or from a tree stand (and might figure out easy methods to load the item whilst you're up there) that's almost always ok. But when you need to tote a crossbow round whilst it's loaded, that may be a bit dicier proposition. Most crossbow safeties are lovely crude making the likelihood of by chance firing one alot bigger than with a rifle. Now, to the plus facet, a crossbow has essentially the entire upside of firing a rifle - best accuracy, same ergonomics, can run a scope on them. Without the downside - no real recoil, no longer too loud and you simply have a lovely excellent trigger on about any of them. Compounds are way more work. Plus it is much tougher to be accurate under stress with a compound than a crossbow. Regarding the protection? Don't particularly find out about that. After I was once doing shooting alot of archery, my 3 - D bow for outdoor stuff was once at ninety two pounds with a fifty five% letoff. My goal bow was once round 60. I had to pretty on the whole take care of string stretch, and tuning with the three - D bow. So i'd expect a crossbow to be in that regional. 5 hours to your nearest Bass pro? Good for a crossbow perhaps it's valued at it because no longer too many places raise them. Nonetheless, should you do back to a compound bow it appears rough to feel that would be your nearest archery professional shop. Thinkingblade

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