• Fiber Cement Board Cement Board With Good Quality. System 1
  • Fiber Cement Board Cement Board With Good Quality. System 2
  • Fiber Cement Board Cement Board With Good Quality. System 3
Fiber Cement Board Cement Board With Good Quality.

Fiber Cement Board Cement Board With Good Quality.

Ref Price:
$1.50 - 2.80 / m² get latest price
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
300000 m²/month

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Fiber cement board, using high quality fiber and mineral substances as main content,was made with forming by advanced technique & technological process & through high temperature & high pressure maintenance & special treatment.

Product Applications:

The purpose of Cladboard is for climate-resistance, waterproof, wind loading resistance, UV proof and exterior wall leak protecting, and good thermal insulation. It can be used in exterior wall cladding and facade of various high-class and high rise civil buildings.

Cladboard, insulation material, air gap and framework composed the ventilation cladding system. The air gap behind of Cladboard has the capability in aeration to balance the wine pressure, keeping the function of the system with warm and thermal insulation, resist typhoon, reduce rain leak into building from framework and exterior wall.

Cladboard especially for exterior wall cladding or facade in city high rise building or the building located in the seaside because of it high strength of wind load, impact and bending.

 

Product Advantages:

1)excellent fire-proof

2)excellent damp-proof

3)Durability and long service life

4)high strength

5)stable dimensions

6)good heat and sound insulation

7)non-asbestos

8)mould resistant

9)no deformation

Main Product Features:

 

It's 100% free of asbestos, formaldehyde, benzene and other harmful substances and with excellent performance like high strength, large size, light weight, fire and water proofing, green and environmental friendly, high efficient and energy-saving. Therefore, this kind of new material is vigorously developed and recommended by the country.

Product Specifications:

 

Fiber Cement Board Cement Board With Good Quality.

 

FAQ:

1. Q:What is the different and most important point from other supplier? 

A:We guarantee No asbestos if it has asbestos density will be more than 1.4g/cm3 what's more 

3.2mm*3000*1220mm can be produced by us other suppliers can not do this size 

2. Q:What are the advantages of your board?

A: outstanding light weight ,heat insulation, waterproof, fireproof, sound insulation, fast construction.

3. Q: Is the board fire resistant? 

A: Yes, fire resistant 4 h , in the heat of 1000℃.actually it is noncombustible Class A1.

4. Q: Do you have any certificate to help us get government's approval?

A:China testing report and our laboratory' s testing by ourselves as your supporting document. 

Because building standards are different in different countries, most of our customers buy the boards for testing and get approval by themselves.

5. Q: If we need samples for customer approval, will it be possible? 

A: Of course we can.

6. Q:How to guarantee the quality? 

A:Laboratory, integral testing process from raw materials to finished product until loading containers will be done by our factory.

 

Images:

 

 

Fiber Cement Board Cement Board With Good Quality.

 

Fiber Cement Board Cement Board With Good Quality.

Fiber Cement Board Cement Board With Good Quality.

Fiber Cement Board Cement Board With Good Quality.

 

 

Q:I would like to replace my carpet with a real hard wood floor., but my floor under the carpet is cement. Can any one give me advise as to how I go about this. want to do it myself.
It can be a big job. You can use an engineered wood floor and glue it down (This is not like laminate more like plywood, the top layer is relatively thick and could be refinished years down the road if needed). First you have to make sure you don't have excessive moisture in the slab. Seal it if needed. I have a glue down hardwood floor my bedroom is 25+ years old and a few years ago did the rest of my house. It's fine. If you want to DIY do some reading about it first. Get a how to book on-line or at a home improvement center. It is certainly doable. The comment about access, regardless of your flooring choice ripping up the slab will obviously ruin the floor, so I don't think that is a consideration. Tile doesn't like being ripped up either.
Q:I've installed a fair amount of this stuff behind tub-surrounds & showers. I generally use a jig saw with a carbide blade, which promptly goes dull. Any experienced tile workers out there find a better way?
I am an architect and I have seen tile layers on the jobsites use a table saw or a 7 1/2 circular saw to make long cuts for the cement board with a carbide tip blade (60 teeth per inch) and for small cuts they use a hand jab saw or sometimes those little roto-zip hand tools. I think that the jig saw blades are too thin and heat up and get dull too fast. for the blue board or green board they just score or break it - Good Luck
Q:after installing my bathtub do i use 1/4 in. or 1/2 in. cement board for surrounding before ceramic tiling?
1/2 will hold up better to the weight of the tile and someone banging into it.
Q:Is a vapor barrier needed behind cement board in a shower?
on an exterior wall you will need vapour barrier
Q:ok so im trying to attach the cooling fan to my cpu on my motherboard and i cant find any glue but i did find some patch cement in a road hazard kit, i was wondering if this would work or would my computer fry?
You need thermal paste. You can get a very small tube, enough for 1-3 applications (?) at COMPUSA (or other such place) for under $5. I work on m-boards/processors all the time and know that some kind of adhesive would probably ruin your computer. I've had many heat sinks/fans that would not separate from the processor, and sometimes lift it out of the socket without loosening the arm that tightens it. The kind of damage cant be (easily/cheaply) repaired. Get thermal paste, apply very thin amount to proc, covering the entire (proc) heat sink. Same to heat sink/fan.
Q:Is the fiber cement board harmful to the human body?
Fiber cement board on the human body is not reflected in the use of synthetic materials, ah, heavy metals and the like, do not listen, the main hazard is the fiber reinforced concrete used in the reinforced material
Q:Sound insulation board effect and what is relevant
General noise is the practice of two types of materials used together, sealing plate with a high density of the plate, and the middle filled with sound-absorbing cotton, such as 50mm thick gradient of sound-absorbing cotton such a highly efficient sound-absorbing material. You can play a very good sound insulation effect.
Q:how do i install stone veneer over cement board?
Use thin set and stick them right to the c-board. If they are bigger pieces you should screw wire mesh to the cement board for a good bond then tuck point joints After it sets or use a bakers bag.
Q:am Laying Floor Tile and was Wondering if the Mesh Tape for Cement Board is the Same as you use for Drywall?
You do not need mesh, you can use thin-set mortar between the cracks.
Q:I have a friend who owns a house who believes it was built in 1968. The basement is in immaculate condition-- completely dry. The walls are poured cement and you can see where the forms were taken off the wall after it was poured. My question -- did they pour walls back in 1968 or was cinder block the building material used? I think the house was renovated within the last 15 years. My friend and I are baffled. Thanks!
Glue is not going to work for you... You should put a vapour barrier down first (under the bottom plate). This can be 'Sill gasket' (which is foam on a roll about 6 wide...) or tar paper or even just 6 mil plastic. This will prevent the bottom plate from 'drawing moisture' through the concrete. Usually a basement floor is only a few inches (at best) deep of concrete and then there's stone and dirt below that. Moisture will pass through concrete over time and if the conditions are right, mould will grow in a few years... in your bottom plate and lower studs. I always use tar paper, set the position of the bottom plate, drill with a concrete bit and then use a hammer-in type anchor... These anchors work like a pin driven down through a hollow shaft that expands. You drill right through the bottom plate and the floor, set one of these in the top of the board and whack it with a hammer to pound the pin into the hollow shaft that you stuck in the hole in the wood... works awesome, easier and cheaper than tapcons and really strong at one every 16 or so (between the vertical studs). Home Depot has them by the box in different sizes... Good Luck!

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