Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel Coil with Good Price of China

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Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
50 m.t.
Supply Capability:
10000 m.t./month

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1. Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel Coil Description:

Hot-dip galvanized steel coil are available with a pure zinc coating through the hot-dip galvanizing process. It offers the economy, strength and formability of steel combined with the corrosion resistance of zinc. The hot-dip process is the process by which steel gets coated in layers of zinc to protect against rust. It is especially useful for countless outdoor and industrial application.

2.Main Features of the Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel Coil:

• Excellent process capability

• Smooth and flat surface

• Workability, durability

• Excellent heat resistance performance

• High strength

• Good formability

• Good visual effect

 

3.Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel Coil Images

 

Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel Coil with Good Price of China

Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel Coil with Good Price of China

 

4.Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel Coil Specification

Standard: AISI, ASTM, BS, DIN, GB, JIS

Grade: SPCC, SPCD, Q195, DX51D

Thickness: 0.15-5.0mm

Model Number: coil

Type: Steel Coil

Technique: Cold Rolled

Surface Treatment: Galvanized

Application: Container Plate

Special Use: High-strength Steel Plate

Width: 600-1250mm

Length: depends

commodity: hot dipped galvanized steel coil

technique: cold rolled

thickness: 0.15-5.0mm

width: 600-1500mm

surface treatment: galvanized

zinc coating: 50-275g/m2

coil weight: 3-7 tons

coil ID: 508/610mm

spangle: zero spangle, regular spangle, small spangle, big spangle

payment term: by L/C or T/T

5.FAQ of Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel Coil

What’s the application of this product?

There are many applications for this product. For example, roofing, cladding, decking, tiles, sandwich walls, etc.

What’s the coating composition of Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel Coil?

The coating composition is 55% aluminium in weight ratio, 43.4% zinc, and 1.5% silicon, with excellent corrosion and heat resistance performance.

 

 

 

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Q:Sstainless steel sword?
i like how you asked this in the Card Games section.
Q:Is Steel a Metal or Non - Metal ?
This Site Might Help You. RE: Is Steel a Metal or Non - Metal ? Steel is a mixture of Iron Carbon . So , is steel a metal or non - metal ?
Q:Polishing stainless steel (revolver)?
I use Mothers Mag polish also. The shine you get depends on the effort.... If you buffed a mirror finish it will dull in time... More work brings it back. On a SW you won't take off enough to make any difference as far as metal holding oil. I use a little Mothers whenever I clean my stainless revolver.... Takes the carbon ring off the cylinder face... I use old cotton socks and t shirts. You could use a Dremel to work the mag wheel polish if you want a bright finish.
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Stainless steel has some benefits: 1) Dishwasher safe: my anodized aluminum pots are NOT dishwasher safe (my wife put one in and it lost its gun-metal gray finish - sad) 2) Conductivity: most stainless steel cookware has an aluminum (or copper) middle - this transfers the heat nicely - steel by itself does not conduct heat evenly. All Clad cookware refers to the fact that the aluminum within the cookware is clad in steel. 3) Aesthetics: stainless is pretty. Stainless is not anti-stick, so you'll have to use all your skills to avoid sticking. 1) Use oil or butter: heat your pan before oiling. Once to temp, add the oil/butter and wait for it to heat-through. THEN add your food - sticking should be minimized. 2) Move your food around a lot: once you add a piece of food that is likely to stick, move it shortly afterward. This will prevent the food from gluing itself to one spot in the pan - a crust will start to appear, and that will protect the food from sticking. 3) Love the fond: anti-stick pans don't have a good chance at fond development (fond is the stuff that sticks to the bottom of the pan, and is crucial to pan sauce creation). You should experiment with your cookware, or send it to me: I am wishing for some new cookware.
Q:What is purpose of providing steel in compression zone in Doubly reinforced beam ?
There are several reasons to add compression steel. Keep in mind, supported steel (meaning it can't buckle) resists compression as well. Compression steel helps reduce long term deflections. Concrete creeps under sustained loads. Steel lessens the compression, meaning less sustained compressive stress to cause creep deflection. It makes members more ductile. Since the steel takes some of the compressive stress, the compression block depth is reduced, increasing the strain in the tension steel at failure, resulting in more ductile behavior (the moment at first yield remains largely the same with compression steel added, but the increase in capacity after yield is significant). Compression steel insures that the tension steel yields before the concrete crushes, meaning it helps change the failure mode to tension controlled. It makes beams easier to construct. With bars in the top and bottom, you have longitudinal reinforcement in all 4 corners of the shear stirrups to keep them in place when pouring the concrete. Also, for continuous members, its often easier to run your negative moment steel the full length of the beam rather than trying to cut it off in the positive moment regions. Serviceability concerns. You're going to end up putting steel in that region anyway to for temperature and shrinkage.
Q:Steel question?
Strength of metals is normally measured by the tensile strength as the main measure although this is not the only property as hardness is another big factor. Basically, iron is soft and steel is hard. Plain iron is stretchy and does not corrode quickly, whereas steel is much stiffer and corrodes more quickly. The tensile strength of cold worked iron is about half that of an average steel, likewise the hardness is about half that of steel too. Pure iron, which is rarely used, is even weaker and softer again and a bit more like softer materials like copper and aluminium. Where confusion comes in is that there is another iron - Cast Iron - which is totally different to both iron and steel. Cast iron is very hard and tough but incredibly brittle so its properties are very different.
Q:Is sterling silver safer than surgical steel?
Surgical steel.
Q:Can I put nylon strings on my steel string acoustic guitar?
No, a steel string guitar is built and braced for the greater tension of steel strings, which means it's too heavily built to respond properly to nylon strings. It would sound awful. Besides, the slots in the nut are too narrow on a steel-string, the action is too low, and the bridge is made for ball end strings (most high quality nylon strings are plain end). And you would have to turn the narrow string posts on steel-string tuners forever to get anywhere with stretchy nylon strings.
Q:UNITED STATES STEEL OR GE?
I would go with some in one and less in the other. Given that steel prices have collapsed (and seeing as the Chinese economy is going into a recession, they will probably stay low for a while) I would say that because US Steel is a blue chip company it will be around for the long term, but, it won't make much for a while. GE on the other hand has been beaten down thanks to some mismanagement issues under current CEO Jeffrey Immelt, however, they have a range of strong products (save for their broadcast division, RCA/NBC). Given that the stock is at a severe low with the company itself being worth quite a bit (with a fair amount of bailout funds coming to its' financial division) and the Obama administrations' green initiatives coming online over the next couple of years the demand for their products will be high. I would simply say 70/20 GE/US. Good luck.
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Phosphor bronze strings ARE steel strings. Phosphor bronze is the alloy used to wrap the steel core on the bottom four strings (the top two are plain steel). It's probably the commonest wrap material used for steel-string acoustics, and most likely it's what you have now. You can also get 80/20 (brass) if you prefer, or fancy coated strings. All will have the basic steel core and are considered steel strings. If your strings have been on there a while, it is better to replace the entire set. Even if none break, replacement at about 3-month intervals is a good idea as the strings gradually lose their tone.

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