flexible ducts S/B K insulation mylar insulation mylar
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- 234 g/m
- Supply Capability:
- 234 g/m/month
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Product Material
10m length aluminum insulation ventilation duct with low priceis made of aluminum foil +fiberglass+aluminum foi+steel wire
Product Feature
8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following feature:
1.Size. (Customer's color requirement can be matched)
2.Color. (Customer's color can be fulfilled )
3.Non-toxic .Harmless to people even long time exposure
4.Excellent light transmission. transparent rate above 92%
5.Excellent weather resistance. performance can’t be change easily by Sunlight and Rain
6.Excellent Design.Personalized design and Human design with mordent concept
Product Advantages
8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following advantages:
1.Material .environmentally friendly Acrylic
2.High Ruggedness.hard to attrit ,break and damage
3.Good anti-aging Properties .Long Using life Above 5 years
4.Strong Impact resistance .16 times than that of ordinary glass
5.Logo imprinting .Customer's Logo can be imprinted personally
6.OEM.ODM service. Satisfied related service can be offered in short time
7.Competitive price.Price at various level can cater your various requirement
8.Reasonable Delivery time.Fast to arrive at your office By air or Sea
9.Sample .Sample available for your proof and final decision
10.Trial Order are hotly welcome and allowed
- Q:Our roof tile is installed on top of galvanized iron sheets. We do not have any toher form of insulation. The roof tile or tegula is quite thick.
- Oh yeah. You need insulation. Think of it this way. If you turned a stove top burner on medium-low and placed one of those roof tiles on it, it would be too hot to pick up. If you put down a small piece of insulation first, you'd be able to pick up the tile with no problem.
- Q:Hello, this is quite an ordeal I've got. I am renting a cabin that has galvanized metal sheets as roofing. These are of course nailed into large wooden beans that run all acrooss.The owner and I made a deal, that deal is that I will put up insulation on the roof. However, she wants to put (i don't knw what they are called) big rectangular styrofam blocks (about 3x9 feet long). She wants me to cut them up to a width where they will feet in between the wooden beams and somehow secure them on. My idea of securing them is by nailing a plastic covering over them. but I am unsure about how to do the rest. How will i get the blocks to stay put if i cannot nail them? is there a better and CHEAP way to do it?As of now, if you look up you see the wooden beams and the tin metal roof. She wants it to be insulated and not visible.
- First you need to see if the foam is FIRE RATED. If you install the wrong foam on an interior surface, it is a building/fire code violation. That being said, I would use an adhesive like liquid nails to install it. Test the adhesive on a piece of foam first though to see if it melts the foam too much. If it does not. Spread the adhesive on the foam and press the foam in place. You can devise a holder to keep the foam sheets in place till the glue dries.
- Q:How do I adequately insulate my attic roof to make the space a bit more habitable in the winter? The floors to the living area below are already insulated and we have a gable mounted fan which is great in the summer. I am thinking of adding insulation to the roof with baffles underneath for air circulation through the soffit vents. Am I anywhere near an idea that may work?
- Such an interesting question when you sit down to answer it. First off, if there are any vents to the exterior, its not likely that you will want any additional heat to enter the space, as it will flow out of the vents to the outside and cost far more money than heat that is lost by thermal transfer, through the doors, windows and insulated walls and ceilings. So, any increase in the source of heat would mean closing the system to outside air vents like the fan and the soffit vents. If you want to heat the space, you'll need to insulate the roof by adding fiberglass batting to the space between the rafters and then drywall or panel depending on local building code and your preferences. Then you'll need an avenue for heat to reach the attic which can be as simple as cutting a couple of floor grates through to the heated space below, but you'll want cold air return ducting to send the cold air that is displaced by the heated air back down to the furnace. Then you'll need to seal the gable fan and insulate, perhaps with a box you can remove in the spring and replace in the fall. Now that the attic is integrated in the HVAC system, you no longer need the soffit vents. If you don't have a forced air system, there is less concern about the cold air return, as your heat source would be in the room or you can just use floor grates on opposite ends of the room for both the warm air and cold air exchange. Place one near the heat source below and one well away from it.
- Q:What is the difference between roof and loft insulations?
- Potentially that the roof itself is insulated on the underside. A loft insulation could be that the base or floor of the loft/ attic is insulated. Otherwise, I'm not sure.
- Q:a roof that is built with the insulation covering the waterproof membrain is ?
- Not done properly.
- Q:is it safe to put insulation in the corners where the roof meets the wall in attics?fiberglass in corners?
- No it is not EVER safe! Roofing material needs to breathe. Anywhere that insulation is applied to the underside of the roof deck the roofing material will warp and then leak. You have to have a cushion of air between the underside of the decking and the insulation
- Q:what effect does changing the pitch of a roof have on the insulation properties and durability of a roof?
- I'd have to agree with mj, your insulation in your ceiling is the major factor for heating and cooling , spec R-38 but if your going for gov. kick backs I think it's R-41 (17" of blown in fiberglass insulation). Roof pitch standard is 1' raise to 4' run, (really easy to re-roof & inexpencive). Advantages of a steep roof (less apt to have leakage problems with a worn roof, you get a few more yrs). When you have to replace that roof, price goes up for steepage.
- Q:does insulation, with a high R value, in the attic prolong the life of the shingles on the roof.
- I partially disagree with the previous answers. Ventilation does help tremendously BUT in the winter a high R value keeps the heat from going through the ceiling through the attic to the roof heating up any snow on the roof which causes ice & ice dams to form, which in turn will shorten the life span of your roof.
- Q:My new room is an addition to a mobile home, and has a single-layer metal roof. I have 3 "main" concerns. What are the cheapest and/or most effective ways of eliminating them?1. No heat insulation- cold air sinks from the roof to my room, and my warm air rises to the roof and cools.2. Condensation forms on the inside and drips occasionally. My computer, bike, and downhill boards are in here!3. It seems like bugs could easily get into my room, but that's just a suspicion.
- welcome to the wonderful world of cheap, temporary roofing. you've just described a metal roof perfectly. bob, tell em what he's won! a lifetime supply of more bad decisions! also, the ugliest roof in town! but best of all, everyone who drives by his home will know he's a bandwagon kind of guy, he doesn't educate himself and do what's wise, he does what everyone else is doing! can't wait till that crowd finds that cliff they've been lookin for!!!
- Q:We bought a house and put new metal roof on over the shingles. (first please don't say, this or that should have been done, just what I can do now) Any how, we have put a lot of money into the house, roof, all new electrical, all new plumbing, etc., I had to make the house in a "living in condition" with a low budget. ............ the house does not have insulation in ceilings, this has to be done next summer. (budget) Any how, the metal roof has condensation under it, only in the ridge vent area. This drips a little and I need to fix it. Now, I know that insulation wouldprobablyy fix this, but we don't have the money right now, so I need help on what to do? Is there anything that with a $100 to $200 budget can be done? I have searched a little, and maybe use a "spray-on"insulation help? The area is where the gap is at the peak and where themetall overlaps the ridge vent. (I thinkthat'ss what it's called)Thank you! :)
- The problem might be resolved by venting the attic. You need to have an air exchange in the attic to prevent condensation.
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flexible ducts S/B K insulation mylar insulation mylar
- Ref Price:
-
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- 234 g/m
- Supply Capability:
- 234 g/m/month
OKorder Service Pledge
Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery
OKorder Financial Service
Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing
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