• Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling 40mm thickness hot sale System 1
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Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling 40mm thickness hot sale

Acoustic Fiberglass Ceiling 40mm thickness hot sale

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
3000 m²
Supply Capability:
10000 m²/month

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Fiberglass Ceiling

The tiles are manufactured from high density fiberglass wool.The visible face has a decorative fiberglass tissue and the back of the tile is covered with normal tissue.The four edges of the tile are sealed and have grooves. It can be jointed together without suspended system. The tiles will cover the suspension system after installation. They are are suitable for loe flap ceiling space and concrete-made, wooded-made or gymsum ceiling.

 

Installation method:

Use screw to fix the smooth roof. The tiles can be connected after making grooves on each two jointed edges.

Tiles are easy to trim and install

Both inches and metric grids are available

 

Main Characteristic:

Non-combustible

No sagging,wrapping or delaminating

Green building material

Excellent sound absorption

 

Application:

Halls,classrooms,offices,shopping centers.etc.

Acoustic fiberglass ceiling contains a better perfomance in tension strong, light weight, so it is easy to trim and install for interior decoration, with T-grids for suspension system or glue, nail or good material could come with fiberglass ceiling baord. Thus an excellent artical work need a high quality acoustic ceiling board, also high quality.

Energysaving is a trend for our 21' era, new product like fiberglass ceiling tile could in place of traditional products one day. Which depends on functional characters: little deflection of geometry dimention, no radiocative property, specific activity of 226Ra: Ira ≤1.0 and specific activity of 226 Ra 232 Th, 40 K: Ir ≤ 1.3. Both products and packages can be recycled.

 

Q:Details: The house is a 3 story house. When showering on the 2nd or 3rd floor, the living room ceiling leaked. Not just 1-2 drops but we had to get a bucket and you can see the staining on the ceiling. This was 4-5 years ago and we stopped using these showers. No further leaking when NOT using the showers. The contractor opened the ceiling today near the staining and turned on the showers. He said that there was no leaking. What happened? Any suggestions? Thanks.
I have encountered this problem. It is one of two things. Either the rubber gasket at the drain is bad or the plumbers putty has failed at the drain. If you have a fiberglass shower pan, there is a metal plate attached to the drain by two screws. Once these are removed you have a collar which is screwed in to the mating piece on the underside of the pan. The other piece is glued to the waste line. Between the glued piece and the bottom of the pan is a rubber washer. This may be bad. I'd try removing the collar first and reapplying plumbers putty and reinstalling it. This can be done by using the handles of a pair of channel locks against the nubs that the screws go into. After doing that, test it. If it still leaks then it is the gasket. You will actually have to buy a complete assembly to get one as home centers don't sell them separately. It always amazes me how some plumbers want to start tearing out ceilings before checking the obvious. I can almost guarantee you that your leak is one of the two.
Q:which of the following insulating materials that are used in roofs ( foil, fibreglass batts, seaweed) work by trapping a layer of air in them??
you should make sure to put baffles in against the roof over the eves before you fill it in you do need to get ventilation into the attic or you will cause more damage
Q:I'm finishing my basement in a newer home (built in 2005). The main level floor / basement ceiling is built with I-joists 16 OC. The main level is mainly hardwood floor, and I plan to have a home theater in the basement. I'd like to cut down on the noise from the hardwood floor above (walking in shoes is very loud!) and noise from the theater from coming upstairs. Any suggestions on how to accomplish this? I was thinking spray foam would be perfect, but man is that stuff expensive. Any other best bet suggestions?Thanks!
I will answer mine with a combination of two people who have already answered. H.K. got it right. Use sound proofing insulation in between your floor joists which is extremely high in density. It's a combination of cellulose and fiberglass that creates an extremely dense soundproofing. I know James Manville makes it and Owens Corning may also. This may not be in stock at your local Do-It-Yourself center and may need to be special ordered. It's more expensive than normal insulation, but much cheaper than the spray in foam alternative. Next, follow it up with the RC channel that Woodtick recommended. These will be screwed in perpendicular to the floor joists and you will then screw your sheetrock directly into those. What this does is creates a space in between the floor joists and the sheetrock and evenly disperses sound traveling through them from the floor joists. They should be in stock at your local Do-It-Yourself center. These two steps are very similar to how many hotels soundproof rooms. If you don't want to make the ceiling permanent by rocking it, then you can install a drop ceiling and use high density foam tiles made for soundproofing. This will be more expensive than rocking, and is much more time consuming to install, but you will have access to pipes or electrical that run in the floor joists. No matter what you do, you will not be able to completely eliminate the noise, but this will give you your best outcome for your budget. Keep in mind noise will transfer through the heating and cooling ducts also.
Q:What type of contractor would be able to remove the insulation from the crawlspace ceiling and put it against the outside wall where it would actually be useful?
The insulation isn't making your floor cold, the weather is. And by code, your exterior walls are already insulated.
Q:But it's fiberglass and needs to be flexible for when it moves. I think actual mirrors will crack and be too heavy. What do I use for the mirrored effect?
a fabric called mylar. The material most ballons are made from.
Q:The main purpose of glass fiber
The roving used for glass fiber reinforced plastic for jetting is required to have the following properties: (1) good cutting property, and less static electricity during continuous high-speed cutting; (2) the efficiency of dispersing the raw yarn after twisting the roving , That is, the beam splitting rate is high, usually require more than 90%; ③ chopped after the original wire with excellent cover, can cover the mold in every corner; ④ resin soaked fast, easy to roll flat and easy to drive bubbles ; ⑤ original barrel to improve the performance of good, coarse yarn density uniformity, suitable for a variety of spray gun and fiber delivery system. Spraying with roving is made of multi-stranded wire system, each strand contains 200 glass fiber monofilament.
Q:I'm looking to move into a new apartment by the end of the month. It's in a good location, however the only down side is that the neighbors upstairs have kids and they run a day care during the day. Luckily I work and won't be home until 5:30 or so, but just by visiting the place today I could hear them walking upstairs and I'm sure that it's going to annoy me.I would like to know if anybody has any ideas on how to noise proof my ceiling for a reasonable price. Is there some kind of paint that effectively noise proofs walls and such, or would I have to wreck the ceiling and place fiberglass or something of the sort in order to ensure that I don't hear them walking or they don't hear me playing loud music and such.Any help is appreciated, thanks!
If you are certain that you are going to be annoyed by the neighbors and will have to invest a lot of time and money in the apartment just to get it to an acceptable state, WHY MOVE IN THERE?
Q:I have 100 acres of arable land, looking for partners and projects, interested friends to give an answer to it!
Oh you get the chant to take your land use permit to be a land asset assessment to the bank loan to get their own project to get yourself to do the boss also with whom to do ah 100 acres of what the concept is not now big and small each city development zone In a lot of small factories can have more than ten acres of land to Niubi to die
Q:I am spraypainting my basement ceiling black, I am also putting up drywall. I am not sure how to finish the space above the top of the wall, where I can see insulation between joists. Any thoughts are welcome.
Painting insulation is just begging for trouble.
Q:Due to circumstances too complicated to go into, my husband and I ended up trying to finish the drywall on our kitchen ceiling ourselves. We were in a bind and couldn't get a contractor, so we used compound, taped, sanded, primed and painted the ceiling 2 weeks ago. In some places the tape has bubbled, in others it's clearly visable under the tape, the ceiling looks, well, bad.My question is: how best to fix it? Do we sand down to the original tape (please, nononono!) and redo it? Is there a textured paint we could use? Pressed tin panels (country house)? We don't have a lot to spend on the project, so any advice would be appreciated! (Yes, I know we messed-up when we painted)
The specific problem areas. Replace fresh tape with mudding. When done & dry, prime paint those areas. Get bucket of sand texture and a 'bumpy' roller. Mix the texture with water until it is paintable thickness. Roll it on; it will splatter. Water & rag will wipe it off. Dry. Repaint.

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