Painting On Aluminum Foil

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I have a low pitched roof so there isn't that much room up there hands and knees only.I have no eave ventilation but the ventilation is through the front and back of the house through triagle metal caps cut into the wood siding. I already have some R19 in the ceiling joists but was wondering would putting it in the rafters against the plywood holding the shingles also help insulate the living area of the house.
No blowing in some insulation will help but putting insulation against the roof wont help. the attic area is supposed to breath to avoid condensation and overheating. The only thing you would put on the roof side would be to help cooling in summer since the shingles heat up the wood underneath and heats the attic, which then works down through the ceiling.
I have a converted loft which is really cold. The roof doesn't have any insulation, just a waterproof sheet, but i don't want to spend too much insulating it with the proper boards. If i use mineral wool and staple it across the roof trusses will it do a good job?
Yes, be sure to leave an air space between the top of the insulation and the roof deck to allow for ventilation, and use a vapor barrier on the interior side of the insulation.
Does snow on the roof help or hurt my heating bill?
I mostly shows that your home is well insulated and not loosing heat through the ceiling to melt it. Think of an Igloo made of packed snow. It can be kept at a temperature just below freezing so that it will not melt and still keep those inside from the 30-60 below outside.
I gutted the room and now would like to rebuild. One side of the room slants (it's the roof) and the other side of the room is a dormer (all low ceilings).I want to insulate the ceiling but have no ridge vents so no moving air as someone mentioned I should have. I want to install foam channels to keep the insulation away from the roof but not sure if this is a good idea without the ridge vents. I will have a vent to the outside installed on the very top of the roof however and the small attic space is open all the way through the other two upstairs rooms and I will add another roof vent on that end of the house. I will only be able to install 3 inch insulation but that's better than none at all. I live in the northeast and was told if the job isn't done right I can get ice jams in winter. Also I don't see any way to drill ridge vents. would it be ok to just install the styrofoam channels and insulate then sheet rock or am I asking for trouble? Thanks in advance for any help.
Suggestion: install the insulation with the foam channels but leave the center section (roof ridge area) open from end to end. At each end you can install a static vent or an active one. Depending on the amount of space you have you may be able to install a power vent.If you can send me a diagram with measurements I can give you a more definitive answer.
a roof that is built with the insulation covering the waterproof membrain is ?
a foolish product of college education in the building trades. it's pretty much taking over. real tradesmen saw that ship sink a while ago and are getting better at treading water.
Help please, this home had a water pipe from meter brake in the basement as it was unoccupied/empty, the owner/builder replaced all the drywall, insulation, flooring, carpet, tile, roof, windows, hot water tank, furnace, bathroom and kitchen cabinets, new paint on all, basement ceiling was spray painted black (to hide something or to seal it?). the neighbor says the home was gutted and mold tested three times, its completely redone basically a new home inside, feedback please, it "looks" great
Hi there. I suggest that you require a home inspection, a mold test and termiite treatment before buying the house. If it was tested, the seller should be able to provide the results. Anytime that there is severe water damage, mold and termite issues usually follow. It is better to be sure that everything is okay before you buy the house.
I do not have extra space on the roof. Roof also tapers to drains at one end of building.
the R values, i am not sure. that white stuff is NOT Styrofoam. it is a cheap imitation. Real Styrofoam is made by DuPont, is usually a light blue, with a plastic seal coat on both sides. that thin plastic seal coat doubles the R value. what really does the insulation, is trapped air. air is actually a poor conductor of heat. the foam is actually little bubbles of air. dead air that is, air that cannot circulate and move. it works similarly to the way a down vest or coat works, it fluffs up and holds the air pockets out within a confining structure, thus retaining heat. the rigid stuff will last much longer, i can tell you that much. the white foam stuff deteriorates quickly. buy cheap, get cheap, is the general rule. you may wind up only having to do it again in a few years.
i have about 200 sq ft of odd shaped polystyrene foam (rigid) insulation between 3" and 5" thick. it's leftover from installing a flat roof on a commercial building. creative ideas anyone? grind it and use it as attic insulation in a home?thanks.
put an AD and sell it as material for Accoustic sound proofing,