• Aluminum Film Lined Fiberglass Plain Fabric System 1
Aluminum Film Lined Fiberglass Plain Fabric

Aluminum Film Lined Fiberglass Plain Fabric

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Aluminum coated PET lined fiberglass plain fabric, aluminum foil jacket

1. Description & Keyword:

Alkaline-resistant fiberglass fabrics as backing brings us a stronger and ductile malleable laminates.

2. Structure & Benefits:

With degradable Mylar film as exposure surface, this products supply better reflection.

3. Application:

[1]. Pack the air-conditioning outlet

[2]. Could be cut to wrap around the glass wool in different sizes for inserting between the main body and the inner body of the subway wagons, for insulating against temperature and sound .

[3]. As vapor barrier or moisture proof.

4. Dimension/Size

[1]. Roll width: 30mm-1200mm

[2]. Roll Length: no less than 50m (Special seizes available upon request)

[3] . Core I.D.: 3"(76mm+/-1)

5. R&D

We are research fire/flame retardant adhesive for improve quality of our products to bring you a safer environment and protect your life.

6. Similar products guide

FG701: use aluminum foil instead of the aluminum coated film (Mylar film) in FG701.

FGS701: additional layer of 7micron aluminum foil was applied to FGS701

Q:do I have to blow insulation in the roof of my mobile home if I install foam insulation under a meatle roof?
Vapor barriers always go on the heated side of walls or ceilings. If you are going to add insulation to your attic and don't want to put in more blown in insulation ( which does have a better R-factor) then purchase unfaced fiberglass insulation to put on top of existing insulation. The thing you need to avoid is called double vapor barriers. Years ago when the first started playing with super insulated houses they would put a poly on the inside and outside of the walls. What happened is any moisture picked up in the walls going from summer to winter would get trapped in the walls and rot them out. No matter what only one vapor barrier on the heated side of the insulation!!! Then your house can breath and release moisture regardless how thick your walls or ceiling.
Q:attic insulation
Blow in insulation is so easy and cost effective, do it yourself. Machines can be rented at Lowes, HD, etc where you buy the material.
Q:i mean, what do you use to make it stay put? glue? nails?
Steel spreaders may be cheapest (as described in other answer) but many roofs have shingle nails sticking out,a couple dabs of caulking,glue,you're done! Be sure anything you use is compatible with your foam,some will just MELT it. Good Luck! DrJ
Q:How do I adequately insulate my attic roof to make the space a bit more habitable in the winter? The floors to the living area below are already insulated and we have a gable mounted fan which is great in the summer. I am thinking of adding insulation to the roof with baffles underneath for air circulation through the soffit vents. Am I anywhere near an idea that may work?
Such an interesting question when you sit down to answer it. First off, if there are any vents to the exterior, its not likely that you will want any additional heat to enter the space, as it will flow out of the vents to the outside and cost far more money than heat that is lost by thermal transfer, through the doors, windows and insulated walls and ceilings. So, any increase in the source of heat would mean closing the system to outside air vents like the fan and the soffit vents. If you want to heat the space, you'll need to insulate the roof by adding fiberglass batting to the space between the rafters and then drywall or panel depending on local building code and your preferences. Then you'll need an avenue for heat to reach the attic which can be as simple as cutting a couple of floor grates through to the heated space below, but you'll want cold air return ducting to send the cold air that is displaced by the heated air back down to the furnace. Then you'll need to seal the gable fan and insulate, perhaps with a box you can remove in the spring and replace in the fall. Now that the attic is integrated in the HVAC system, you no longer need the soffit vents. If you don't have a forced air system, there is less concern about the cold air return, as your heat source would be in the room or you can just use floor grates on opposite ends of the room for both the warm air and cold air exchange. Place one near the heat source below and one well away from it.
Q:I know when you inhale the insulation from the roof irritates the throat but what can you do to clear it from your throat after inhaling it?
it's not your throat you should be worried about. it's your lungs. wear a respirator....or at the very least, a dust mask. you only live once so make it last.
Q:p/t deck on a commercial rubber roof do we need closed cell insulation under deck to protect rubber?
there is any kind of belongings you ought to use to guard your EPDM roof. From extreme density insulation boards to top adjustable helps all reckoning on your roof length, shape and water run off falls.in case you have an activity in looking out greater pop over to our on line shop.
Q:My home is shaped like a square box. The four corners of the upper level have the roof pitch from the gables protruding into the rooms. The attic has no insulation and I need to insulate it. There is access from the attic to look down into the wall/ceiling that protrudes into the room. I can insulate the attic myself but the surface area of these protrusions is rather large. What would be the best way to get insulation down in there? Shoot the insulation in and poke it with a stick to make sure there is good coverage down in the wall space? The opening is about 6 inches high.Thanks.
Loose fill cellulose can be blown into your attic. I don't know if I understand the protrusions that you are describing but if you can freely blow the cellulose fiber into this space it should serve as a good insulation. You don't want to poke it in with a stick because you don't want to compress it. If you cannot blow this product directly into the space, you would be better off stuffing it lightly with fiberglass batting. Just don't cram it too tightly. It needs to be loose to be most effective.
Q:i have about 200 sq ft of odd shaped polystyrene foam (rigid) insulation between 3" and 5" thick. it's leftover from installing a flat roof on a commercial building. creative ideas anyone? grind it and use it as attic insulation in a home?thanks.
Hey, Why not just sell the leftovers and make some dough instead? You can list them on craigslist or OKorder. Just a suggestion :) Regards, J
Q:what action should a plumber take?????
struggling to understand your question! are you talking about a storage tank? what is the problem with the insulation? if it is in the way move it but insulation under a tank is not a problem the tank will need to be insulated any way!
Q:the roof of my mouth hurts bad.i worked all day with sawdust and insulation yesterday.is this the problem.?
Sawdust is a definite possibility. It is highly toxic and an appropriate mask should always be worn when sawdust is present. Sawdust is a proven carcinogen. Depending on the type of insulation you used, it may contain chemicals (e.g. formaldehyde) or particulates (fiberglass) that can be irritating to the throat, lungs and/or nasal sinuses. Bottom line: be sure to wear an appropriate mask in the future. They are available at most hardware and all wookworking stores. Best wishes and good luck.

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