Fiber Cement Board Cement board, Fireproof Non-asbestos

Ref Price:
$1.50 - 3.00 / m²
Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT or LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
300000 m²/month

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Product Description:

High Density and Strength fiber cement board is a high quality calcium silicate architectural board reinforced with selected cellulose fibres and fillers.

The raw materials of fiber cement board are cellulose fiber, silicate cement, quartz sand, water and some additives. 

 It is 100% free from asbestos, sepiolite, inorganic fibres or formaldehyde.

Product Applications:

 The purpose of Cladboard is for climate-resistance, waterproof, wind loading resistance, UV proof and exterior wall leak protecting, and good thermal insulation. It can be used in exterior wall cladding and facade of various high-class and high rise civil buildings.

 

 

Cladboard especially for exterior wall cladding or facade in city high rise building or the building located in the seaside because of it high strength of wind load, impact and bending.

 

Product Advantages:

1)excellent fire-proof

2)excellent damp-proof

3)Durability and long service life

4)high strength

5)stable dimensions

6)good heat and sound insulation

7)non-asbestos

8)mould resistant

9)no deformation

Main Product Features:

 

1) Elegance and excellent decoration
2) Easy installation and convenient maintenance
3) Best Surface processed with PVC Lamination
4) Heat insulation, thermal insulation, moisture proof, mould proof, sound absorption and noise reduction

5) Incombustibility / Fireproof
6) No dust / no pollution

7) Stucturally strong

8) Over 15 years no transmutation

 

Product Specifications:

 

Fiber Cement Board Cement board,   Fireproof Non-asbestos

 

FAQ:

1. Q:What is the different and most important point from other supplier? 

A:We guarantee No asbestos if it has asbestos density will be more than 1.4g/cm3 what's more 

3.2mm*3000*1220mm can be produced by us other suppliers can not do this size 

2. Q:What are the advantages of your board?

A: outstanding light weight ,heat insulation, waterproof, fireproof, sound insulation, fast construction.

3. Q: Is the board fire resistant? 

A: Yes, fire resistant 4 h , in the heat of 1000℃.actually it is noncombustible Class A1.

4. Q: Do you have any certificate to help us get government's approval?

A:China testing report and our laboratory' s testing by ourselves as your supporting document. 

Because building standards are different in different countries, most of our customers buy the boards for testing and get approval by themselves.

5. Q: If we need samples for customer approval, will it be possible? 

A: Of course we can.

6. Q:How to guarantee the quality? 

A:Laboratory, integral testing process from raw materials to finished product until loading containers will be done by our factory.

 

Images:

 

 Fiber Cement Board Cement board,   Fireproof Non-asbestos

Fiber Cement Board Cement board,   Fireproof Non-asbestos

Fiber Cement Board Cement board,   Fireproof Non-asbestos

Fiber Cement Board Cement board,   Fireproof Non-asbestos

Fiber Cement Board Cement board,   Fireproof Non-asbestos

 

 

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Q:Kerdi for tile, vs. cement backer board?
I am assuming you are going with ceramic tile. If that is the case then you do not need fiberboard. Just tile right to the concrete floor. As for the crack either fill it in or use a product called RedGaurd. RedGaurd is a rubberized product that when applied over the crack will expand and contract and thus keep the crack covered. You can apply RedGaurd then put mortar right over it.
Q:why is the cement-board lintel over my front door separating from the brickwork?
Could be what the first poster suggests. Without actually seeing it, it's really hard to tell. Are there other places in the home that are suddenly not level? Or things that used to be square now not square? That's usually a good indication of a foundation issue. The first thought that popped into my head was a moisture problem from some where. Most likely a leak above the area. Could be very small but over time is creating issues within the wall and the cement board will have a tendency to attract the moisture. Even a bad seal around a window or the soffit area above will create an issue such as you are experiencing.
Q:Decoration works: 1 cm thick cement pressure plate seal cylinder how much money a square meter, who knows ah
Material 10 yuan (good) artificial 15 must be large. Grass-roots labor + material = 45 Surface material optional, and then fiber is less than 20 yuan.
Q:Anything smaller than 1/4 inch cement board.for tile?
I guess I've been on the planet Mars far too long? Blue Board?? On a floor? Tile underlayment?? I tile every day of my life, even ceilings, and never heard of either method suggested. Not knowing at all your current bathroom substrate, or the substance of the LV room floor, NO you cannot find concrete backer board thinner than 1/4. In fact I suspect you'd have a hard time finding the 1/4. 1/2 is standard. I wonder what finish the Bathroom floor is currently? Certainly the Marble strip for a transition is also standard, often between tile and tile. There are transition moldings sold for the purpose of going fom tile to carpet, or tile to hardwood, even pancake, overlaps. Steven Wolf Just my two sense
Q:i can land a kickflip in the grass 40% of the time and now i really cant land it on the cement?
Well try practicing on the cement only from now on so you can get used to the motion of the cement. Also just commit. A lot of it is ether fear or just loss of commitment. Grass has no motion in it so you have to get used to the rolling motion of the cement for a while and then keep trying the kickflip but dont do it in grass it will just ruin your ability to do it on the cement. You can do it in the grass again after you land it once on the cement because the grass just really ruins your skills at landing it because you have to be able to land with motion and movement. Not just landing and sticking there.
Q:I have to remove 500 square foot of ceramic tile that is glued to cement board?
As a business, you need time saving tools. they make a reciprocating flat bladed, heavy duty chisel that is made specifically for blasting off tile and linoleum- buy it at carpet and tile stores, about $200.00. do not bother with the handy man types, they will burn our on the first job. If you can't afford one, go rent one for your first few jobs- believe me, they are money makers. then uses mastic fill or heavy duty grinder to level the backing and get all the old adhesive off. the surface has to be perfect- and I mean perfect! to do the job right. Marble is a tough one, but if you take your time, you can do it ok- the trouble you will have with it is mostly accurate cutting. measure twice, use cardboard templates, what ever it takes to do it perfect. As a pro, you customer will expect perfect. If you mess up with marble, you have to go buy another piece and start over- no hasty “hidey-fixies” , or your reputation will be shot really quick and you'll be back to bummer work. If you demand absolute perfection of yourself, believe me, you will be covered up with work, even in this economy. I knew a tile guy - that's mostly a one man show, as you know- who was such a perfectionist, one time I watched him knock out a whole completed job because it did not meet his standards- he replaced the whole thing at his own expense. The thing was, that action of him smashing what we all thought was a perfect job, got around all the contractors. we all said, Wow! If he would do that just for a very minor, invisible mistake, he is the man I want!” I would wait three extra weeks just to get him on all my jobs and even paid premium for him. He was in huge demand and became very wealthy- In slump times, he was always working when his competitors would all be idle..
Q:How to do the effect of water
Water effect, is a rustic architectural style, the current application is also very common in the country. From Japan's Ando master.
Q:How to install the solution of cement pressure plate
Plastic buckle plate, plastic aluminum plate production: These two methods for home decoration finished, and want to wrap up the riser. Because it is not necessary to fill the disk, it is convenient. Plastic buckle: wood keel plus angle, directly from the bottom of the buckle up into the installation. Disadvantages: not beautiful. Aluminum-plastic plate: wood keel on the nail nine PCT board, and then all the glue to the aluminum-plastic plate stick to a variety of colors, close to the disk effect. Disadvantages: aluminum-plastic plate angle is easy to crack, should use thicker plate.
Q:What are some inexpensive and creative ways to decorate a cement block basement?
Because of your scrapbooking and since it is a basement you are going to want to consider storage options. Inexpensive shelving, either metal shelves or even sturdy boards and cinder blocks can be concealed behind curtains. I’ve even seen decorative shower curtains used for this. Curtains might help hide or break up some of the longer expanses of wall too. Take your time and watch clearance sales. You are probably going to want mirrors for your work out area. Inexpensive long, narrow dressing mirrors would be perfect for this and would also increase your lighting. They could be taken out of the cheap frames they come in and hung side by side or left in the frames for a more focused area. Some could even be hung side ways for a different effect on an adjoining wall. For the lighting I would think that an overhead in the work out area and halogen in your craft area would suffice and wouldn’t be too expensive. You don't want to scrimp on the lighting for your craft area, you will see the difference in the end product of your work if you do. All of these ideas leave you where anything you do have to purchase can easily be converted to another use in a new home. Good luck in your new place!
Q:How thick concrete boards are used in the room walls
Not more than 20mm, but also to layered construction, scraping "overnight rough." Local if the plaster thickness thick, and should be embedded in the steel mesh or fibrous mesh, to prevent the mortar too thick cracking

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