Q:my gf got into an accident last night. she said everything went well then when she went to turn she couldnt completly and ran into an embankment. also last week it was raining hard and she said the same thing happen except that she almost hit the sidewall. she said all this time for a while her low trac light has been on but never said anything. she said it felt like a glitchwhen steering the first time. what problems would set off that light that would cause a prob? she has a 95 camero auto v6

Not sure that a low trac light would do it - as most of the GM traction controls of that era have to do with limiting engine power during low traction conditions. However, some of the newer controls would pulse various brake pads using the ABS system, which in a turning condition, depending on how hard the pulses were, could make the car turn sharper, or make it much more difficult to turn. I wouldn't put it out of the question, but seems a bit far fetched.

Q:My car, a Mercedes 1996 C280 has a check engine light on. I‘ve looked at the common problems first like checking the oil, but everything seems fine. I want to find out what the problem out myself without having to spend the money. I heard that I can input a code and the number of times the dashboard flashes is the answer, but I have no idea how to do anything like that.

Call Auto Zone, or other auto parts retailers. Not sure about a Mercedes, but for most cars they will read the computer codes for you for free. It probably is a sensor for the emission control system. Good luck with it.

Q:I recently installed a new audio system in my truck, then i started to notice the battery light come on. it went off for a couple days, then i installed a capacitor just to be safe and then the battery light came on and has stayed on... any ideas on the issue. all the audio equipment is installed correctly. 300 watt amp and 1 farad cap.

stop at any auto parts dealer and get your charging system checked out to make sure your alternator is putting out the right power for your battery,they do this test for free.it takes a matter of minutes.good grounds are important clean steel area with o ring clip on the wire screwed into the clean area.the ground off the amplifier should be as short as possible.there has to be a reason that your battery crapped out and im thinking alternator.make sure you pick a different place to ground the amplifier not to the cap the cap should be grounded on its own and a good ground to.if your capacitor has a read out on it you should be seeing about 14 volt read out with engine running sometimes it will go to 14.4 then back to 12 volts when you shut the car off and it gos out after a min or two.if the numbers are any bigger than that there is a good chance your brushes in the alternator are tired,the alternator most of the time starts over charging your battery and this is what kills it.hope this helps you out.also check your alternator to see if its getting to hot and make sure you don't get your fingers caught in the belt,that would suck.if its getting to hot its working its butt off.look into the (big 3 upgrade) on u tube and see what its all about.but a 300 watt amplifier should be fine on a stock charging system.i have about 900 watts into two amplifiers and my stock charging system can run this with out a problem.good luck with your system.hope your running your amplifier off the battery itself with the wiring kit they sell for the job.if not this is your problem.

Q:In the range of 600 or less? 12 gauge is the only option. I‘m 12 but noise doesn‘t bother me. Recoil would like to be kept to a minimum if possible.

I haunt used guns and pawns . I am always amazed at some of the older, higher end, high quality sporting shotguns that go for beans Any full choke shotgun would work. and with steel shot you would have some advantage in shot volume using 3 or 3.5 inch chambered guns and shells. that being said there are a LOT of really nice used shotguns and places to hunt that would work with 23/4 inch steel loads. Duck hunting is wet most of the time. my duck gun looks like a beater. and I wont put $1000 into a gun that will get wet and banged around a boat and blind. or get dipped in a swamp now and then. My duck guns. a well worn Mossberg 500 (old one) that has doubled as a canoe paddle a few times. and a bargain bin Remington 11-87 that's as ugly as homemade sin and was bought for a song after some guy did a homemade camo paint job on it.

Q:I‘m having a problem with my a/c system. the interior lights on the controls no longer come on, and many things don‘t work anymore. the fan comes on blows air, but it‘s no longer heated. and the ducts don‘t move either, for when you want the air from the outside vs inside air circulation. everything was fine yesterday until the thermostat housing was attempted to be taken off.the last bolt wouldn‘t come off. and the housing has shifted a bit from its original place, and wont be budged back. could this have anything to do with it. i checked all fuses and they work fine. any solutions?

If you want heat, it's carried by the engine coolant. If the engine thermostat housing isn't closed tight, the coolant will all leak out and not carry heat anywhere- the heater, the radiator- not anywhere, and it will stay where you don't want too much of it- in the engine. The engine will overheat very quickly without coolant in it and be damaged badly. The interior heating ducts are controlled, often, by engine vacuum carried by little hoses and some may have gotten knocked loose. Some cars do this wth cables and levers instead of vacuum. You need to look in a good auto repair manual like Chiltons and see where everything related to heating and cooling belongs and make sure it's still there. But before you try to start the engine, fix the thermostat housing. Get a friend who knows about these things to help you and don't let it get dark before you finish working. Since the heater lights don't come on anymore, find the wire that got knocked off and plug it back. How do bolts on an engine near a thermostat get stuck? Maybe it's rusted in place, or stuck with block sealer that was used to stop a leak. Leak stop with sodium silicate will do that, and that's about the best kind of sealer, but the problems it can cause are what you have. I hope you never have to take the head off- some of the head bolts might be stuck too and they are extremely hard- I wouldn't want to have to try and drill out one, and you'd need a diamond drill, or at least carbide. If you break the thermostat bolt, you'll have to drill it out and tap new threads in the hole so a new bolt will go in and hold. That simple job got very complicated, didn't it.

Q:I went to start it on my lunch break yesterday and it was dead. I called AAA and they came to jump it and also did a test and said the battery tested fine, but it was dead again when I left work. After jumping it, driving it for 45 min and then leaving it running (lights, radio, etc turned off) for 20 min at home, it would not start again an hour later. The car has 100,000 miles on it and it is still the original battery. I have never had issues with it before. In fact, I have left interior lights on for hours and was surprised how long the battery lasted before it died. I'm really hoping I just need to replace the battery and not the alternator or something else. Anyone have any ideas?

take battery out recharge it .see if it starts car after full charge if so not the battery uld be draing from some where or alternator fault is red light for alternator on or what .best bet drain on battery somewhere .take lead of battery and see if battery losses power out of car overnight should keep steady 12.5 vaults at all times if good battery.

Q:This morning I was driving my girlfriend to work and the check engine light came on. Took it to the auto parts store to get it scanned and it gave me a code of P0440 Evaporative Emissions System. I texted ChaCha and asked them how to fix the problem. They answered back and said Remove and reinstall the gas cap, clear the codes, and drive for a day and see if the codes come back. This should fix the problem. To me it seems like that fix wouldn‘t work but I was wondering if that‘s true? If not, how do I fix the problem?Btw, I have a 1996 Pontiac Sunfire SE 2.2L

Yes in my state they check emmissions every 2 years yes the gas cap can do this buy a new one.

Q:Car led lights, brake lights, traffic lights do not shine, how is it?

Check the traffic lights line, if the line is the power that is bad bulbs, like a light bulb

Q:Has anyone been having problems with Windows Updates lately? The past couple of times, my computer had automatic Windows updates, and I‘ve had problems turning my computer back on. The power light comes on, the CD/DVD drive light flashes as it should, but the system doesn‘t kick in or start up (no Windows splash screen, etc.).It‘s only when I unplugged and plugged in the computer itself, that my computer came back on. The same thing happened once before, after the previous Windows Auto update. I have turned off the auto update function in the Control Panel.Has anyone else had this problem? What can I do to make sure I don‘t have this problem again? I‘m afraid to turn off my computer now, as I might not be able to turn it back on. I have an HP Pavilion with Windows XP Media Center Edition 2005.

That and more. my most recent problems with Auto Update were updates changing drivers or firmware. I haven't had any problems since disabling the updates. You might need to do a system restore and then disable the updates and simply choose the files yourself to update.

Q:96 silverado 350 4x4, this morning on the way to work had the cruise set at 60, hit a hill and it downshifted a gear and started to bog down a little so I gave her some more gas and it cleared up, and happened a couple times just going down a flat stretch, the service engine soon light came on, I‘m guessing its the fuel filter, but would the fuel filter being bad cause the service engine soon light to come on? Or is it something more than that? Thanks guys

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