Q:My 2007 Subaru WRX had the Check Engine Light come up, and I took it to Auto Zone for a computer code scan, and here is the result:P0456- Evaporative emission control system malfunctionWhat exactly is that? I know it‘s NOT a fuel/loose fuel cap (that‘d be P0457), so what am I looking at and/or replacing here?Thanks.

The problem with P0456 is that it is so broad - it simply says there is a small leak in the evaporative control system, the emission system that prevents fuel vapors from being released into the atmosphere (sounds simple, but they manage to make it complex). The first source has a good definition and details. P0457 is a rare code that is not nearly as sensitive as P0456 - it will pop up if you leave the cap way loose or off. (See source 2 for the definition but not the details.) The most likely cause is a bad seal on the gas cap, especially given the age of your Subie. The other causes of evap leak codes are mostly deterioration of other rubber parts - I fought a battle of cracked hoses near the gas tank on my old Volvo - and your vehicle is too new for that and too old for misfitted parts. I bet if you get a new gas cap from the dealer it will fix the problem. Aftermarket gas caps are not to be trusted.

Q:Usually i turn on and off the lights at home at the same time more or less, so i thought to automate it.I‘m looking for a product you can replace with the regular light‘s wall-switch that have a usb port and a switch with three levels: on, off (to overwrite the automation) and auto. and by connecting a laptop to the usb port, you can program the light when to go on and off.is there a product like that (or something somewhat similar) or in order to automate the lights at home i need to install a complex home-automation system or go to the other extreme, and install a regular, old timer that can‘t handle multiple and complex dates and times?

Try your search in Smart Houses the newer systems do just what you are looking for allot more

Q:Put aside the color does not say .6000K and 8000K HID which bright, which can put the ground and the front of the road all the light.

6000K 8000K refers to the color temperature of the lamp is not the brightness of the brightness of the unit is lumens really admire upstairs 50,000 Renderado have come to say so you see a lot of xenon lights are blue and halogen light is not so blue more blue On behalf of the higher the color temperature at noon the sun color temperature is about 4300K 6000K color temperature looks a little blue 8000K is relatively blue and there is the brightness of the HID are generally more than twice the halogen so do not worry about the light and focus Do better than the halogen and so much better than the color temperature, then about 6000K or so there is the higher the color temperature, the ability to penetrate the less the lower the color temperature penetration of the better if it is foggy night is too Big impact so the color temperature can not be too high (upstairs said more than 80,000 is estimated that you can see the UV?

Q:There is nothing in any manual about these two options in the MMI setup and while I have read elsewhere that the Touring Mode has to do with where the headlights point I was hoping someone might know. I believe the Auto Running Lights feature have to do with the sensitivity of the full lighting system coming on but am not sure.

there could be clearance issues with the lifted suspension.

Q:i am an high school student and i would like to to an independent study with a very cool auto teacher at my school, but i have no idea what i want to do any suggestions would be helpful thanks.

Get a rebuild kit and while your fixing it get a shift kit.

Q:I have a '07 Corolla CE. I have made no modifications to the original motor, transmission, etc. I have noticed that my heater is not nearly as strong as it was in the first few years of owning the car. Of the 4 available strengths that the heat blow normally the 1st one barely has any effect. Generally the 2nd is okay but not great. The only time it seems to be generally working okay is when I am on the highway and at a cruising speed of 60+mph. I have noticed the same thing in the summer when using my air conditioner though it seems to be even weaker. I usually have to use 3 if not the 4th highest setting of strength to get a comfortable feeling within the car. Though in the A/C's case it does seem that it is speed affected. What are the likely causes and fixes for this situation. If you happen to know what the price range of the fix would be as well it would be appreciated.

When only lower fan speeds are affected, but everything is fine on the highest setting, this is always a bad blower motor resistor. This is a low cost part, lookup online or call around for the best price. It is easy to get at and plug&play, a nice little DIY job. EDIT: A/C just works better at highway speed because more air is moving through front grill and the condenser. At a red light you must depend on a little radiator fan under the hood to remove heat from the refrigerant as it condenses. If at a red light you suddenly notice warm air from the vents or engine shuddering with the A/C on, then this indicates a problem with that fan or its circuit. If cold air returns when you speed up, it is definitely not low on r134-a, and adding more with a broken condenser fan will definitely damage the compressor.

Q:How to write a safety declaration for the performance evaluation of automotive lighting

Far away, do not hurt the eyes, long life, not astigmatism, wiring is simple, not broken line, the annual inspection 99% clearance, auto repair factory partners.

Q:Car oil light can run far

Different models, can not say. Generally in 30 km ~ ~ ~ 50 km between. In fact, we must develop a good habit of refueling in advance, it is estimated that soon oil, and do not wait until the lights, because the petrol pump can be immersed in gasoline can be heat, when the light has been exposed, certainly poor heat.

Q:In my 1996 Nissan Quest, the light behind the vent/heat system panel is out. Is it a fuse or bulb?

if the rest of your panel lights work,will probably be the bulb.

Q:I have a 1976 Bronco and would like to replace everything so it won‘t break down and leave me stranded as I have difficulty walking long distances. This includes new/rebuilt V 6/V8, new/rebuilt auto transmission, complete braking system, lights and wiring, electrical system, exhaust system, anything and everything to make it so it appears as is was manufactured last year.

I have found this as a good rule of thumb. Find a Bronco like the one you have on the internet that has been restored back to a factory condition. No customizing. Then see if it is for sale. Take the sale price of that Bronco minus what you paid for yours. Then take the total and triple it. This is about what it would cost to get yours up to the condition you want.