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The fault for the spill valve is not something you can correct with timing. When they repaired or replace injectors they need to be programed into the computer so they match the other injectors. The spill valve is in the injector and is there to return unneeded fuel back to tank. If this valve does not work you could be over fueling or run the risk of fuel cooking in the injector making a mess of the spray pattern. It should be telling you which injector is throwing the code and if it is one of the two that were worked on take it back.s
My 8 yr. old son was thought to have this at birth, thankfully he out grew it It can cause your heart to beat rapidly, especially during physical activity. There are different types also, but mainly a valve in your heart is not formed correctly causing it not to seal witch creates the back flow of blood. Look up MVP on the web and you can find tons of info. on it! Also, make sure to have a sonogram and speak to a great cardiologist!s
From what i've got study having it repaired rather than replaced has a much greater helpful restoration consequence. The survival fee is in the mid ninety's % clever so curiously like an rather secure surgical operation. Hoping she has a rapid restoration.s
I suspect the leaking valve that was replaced was your washer's solenoid valve. Did you remember to turn the hot water supply valve on after you finished? That is the valve, next to the cold water supply valve, on/at the wall behind the washer. There are rubber hoses coming from those valves to the solenoid valves on your washer. If you forgot to turn it back on after replacing the leaking valve you'll get no water. If you turn off both the hot and cold supply valves on the wall you should be able to remove the rubber hoses right where they connect to the machine and check the water flow by directing them into a bucket or pan while you open the supply vales. If you have good pressure and flow make sure there is no debris clogging the screen, just inside there the hose connects to your machine. These can get blocked where the water won't pass or runs very slow. Sometimes it pays to check the simplest causes first. Good Luck. SS.s
the guy above me got to it before i did. sounds like either a diaprham has just gone out, or the solenoid plunger is stuck, or there is a rock or something inside the valve, not closing it all the way. like trying to close a door with your foot in it. it will not close all the way. A word of advice would be to go ahead and replace the anti-siphon valves with regular inline valves. anti-siphon valves are pretty much junk any type. As far as diagnosing the problem now, 1. check your timer's programming and make sure that its not sending out power to this zone all of the time. ( this would make the timer bad). 2. carefully open the valve up ( with the water turned off of course), and inspect the diaprham. if it has any tears or ripps in it, get a new diaphram, if not, then flush the lines out with the valve open to see if any debris is in the line( rocks pipe pieces, etc.) and clean it out. 3. take out the solenoid and make sure the plunger in it is not sticking. ( if so replace the solenoid). 4. if all else fails just simply cut out and replace the entire valve and plumb in a new one properly. personally i would use either Hunter PGV valves, Rainbird DVF 100 valves, or Irritrol 205 series valves. all are inline models. antisiphon valves tend to fail. i work on sprinkler systems full time for 95 $ per hour of labor for our company. hope this can help you out John As
EGR valve got sooty,and rusty and dirty and then they dont work right. They either dont open or they get stuck open and cause the car to run lousey. If the valve has been i the car since the 80's it is probably about time to either clean it or change it. do you have haynes or chilton manual for the car? they explain alot.s