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FAQ

Hey guys and girls, when im out riding on my Motorcycle Move than 20mintues, my Left Brake Leg Say‘s to Cramp/ go numb, why is that, its put me off from Riding, is there a website how my legs should be, as my brakes are touchy im scared im going to brake when Accelating: s

I've never ridden a motorcycle / driven a manual car, and i've got a few questions. I'm going to take an MSF course before I get my license, so don't be all noob.1) When stopped, is it ok to leave the clutch in and be in 1st gear or must you shift to neutral to not burn out the clutch?2) In an automatic car, I can be at a stop sign in drive with just the brake pushed in. I'm guessing you can't do that with manual in 1st?3) I've heard that when shiftings from N to 1st, you have to let out the clutch slowly, so how slow does this have to be compared to just dropping the clutch?Finally, what can I do to amuse myself before I can get my license? (I'm 15). I'm totally obsessed with motorcycles and I can't wait any longer!!Thanks!: 1. Yes perfectly alright. 2. No, you must either be in neutral or have the clutch engaged 3. Not super slow, you only need to follow that rule when downshifting, and taking off from a dead stop.s

I use an alarmed Xena disc lock on my ZX-10R and after using it the alarm will trigger without being disturbed. The mechanism is armed be a magnet from what I can tell. I am guessing it is triggered from heat as it only happens right after a ride and seems to work properly after it has sat for awhile. Anyone have any experience with this?: If the FAQs are correct, sounds like heat could indeed set this thing off. It uses infrared for something (I'm not familiar with this product), and heat is essentially infrared. So it could be.s

My mom said i can have her motorcycle (a Honda CB-1 450) if i get it running again out of my own pocket. It has been sitting for a couple years and she never drained the fuel out of it so it‘s probably gunna need carb work and all that but I know that before it sat the bike ran perfectly so the only problems should be a result of it sitting . I would like to avoid taking it into a shop because of the cost but what do you think It will take to get it running. Also can someone tell me how to drain the brake fluid? The front brakes locked up and i had to take it off the wheel to move the bike.: This shouldnt be too difficult Remove the fuel tank and drain the gas. You may be able to use it in your lawn mower. On the fuel tank fuel shutoff valve, there is usually a small bowl with a filter inside. Remove the bowl and clean the screen with carbruator cleaner. Reassemble. Remove the float bowls on the carbruators and drain the fuel. Re-install the float bowls. Change the oil and filter. Remove the spark plugs and put about 1/2 ounce of clean motor oil down each spark plug hole. Re-install the spark plugs. With the ignition off, turn the engine over a couple of times with the kick starter. Replace the battery. Add clean fuel to the fuel tank. Add a product called Sea Foam to the fuel. About 2 ounces per gallon of fuel. Sea Foam can be found at most major auto supply stores. It is one of the best fuel system cleaners I have found. Open the fuel valve on the gas tank and check for leaks. As you state the front brake is locked up. You will need to remove the brake caliper. Check with the local Honda dealer and see if it can be rebuilt. If it can not be rebuilt, replace it along with the brake pads. You may want to bleed the brakes. The front brakes are very important as most of your stopping power comes from the front brakes. If you are uncertan about this, I strongly recommend having the Honda dealer look at the brakes Check the cables and lube with cable lube if needed Lube the chain with chain lube and adjust if needed. Fill the tires to the recommended air pressure. Bring the bike outside. Make sure the exhaust pipes are'nt pointing towards anything important, I'll explain later. Now you can try to start. Once it starts, do not race the engine too much. It will smoke and spit some oil out the exhaust, remember, you put some oil down the spark plug holes. This will clear in a minute or so. Ride and enjoys

im 18 and ive been driving standard cars since I was 14 and in that time with my job i have driving ive put well over 100k miles worth of experience into driving standard. I know every trick to it.when I was younger and rode bmx bikes with friends and whatnot I could always handle myself really well. doing wheelies and no hands better than anyone else ( not that I‘d be doing tricks on a motorcycle but I just have good handeling.idk if that means anything .but would someone like me have a fairly easy time learning to ride a motorcycle?and ive wondered how long does it take yo learn and master knee drags ? seems like it‘d be the hardest thing to do.: Riding--and surviving--has more to do with attitude than with aptitude. A teen-aged non-rider talking about knee dragging looks like a future road-rash victim from where I sit. You will probably learn quickly enough, but your confidence will most probably grow much faster than your real riding skills, and that won't keep you out of the emergency ward for long. Knee-dragging is useful on the track (and I spend a lot of time there). There is NO place for it on the street, and skill has nothing to do with it. It has to do with the variables that exist on the street that are not present at the track: Dust, oil and gas on the roadway; potholes, manhole covers, asphalt patches, frost heaves; curbs, light standards, sign posts, guardrails; pedestrians, children, stray animals, wildlife, roadkill other motorists; driveways, intersections.s

Can I replace my motorcycles rear brake pads with newer pads from the front of the bike?: It is not recommended. IF the pads are the same, yes, of course they will fit, but they have worn in differently on the front and will not be perfectly flat and not correctly mate to the rear disc or drum.s

When you accelerate the engine makes a sound, but when you use the engine-brake, is another sound. What determines this sound?: Way too complicated a matter to discuss in accurate complete detail here. Accel and Deccel are 2 entirely different modes,,practically alternate universes In Accel,,,the Intake Velocity is very High and Voluminous. Combustion Chamber Pressures are High ,,and Rising by the RPM. Exhaust is Pressurized to the point it constitutes a Flow Restriction,,,,Likewise on Intake Side'sVaccum being restricted by mass volume demand. Intake Gulp Frequency is communicated all the way thru to altmosphere On DECCEL,,Air Intake is almost NIL,,,, Carb Downstream Intake tract is under Extreme High Vacuum while Carb Intake is under a near NO Flow/Atmospheric Pressure condition. It's virtually Isolated from atmosphere Combustion is almost NIL,,hence Pressure is limited to engine's physical displacement. And even THAT is being starved by Closed Throttle. Engine is pumping NO Air to compress,,,None to support combustion. PSI entering Exhaust falls thru the floor. What WAS The Restrictive Exhaust under ACCELERATION,,, instantly becomes Relatively CAVERNOUS compared to the Mass of Air it must pass under Deccel. Or I should say LACK of Air The Reduced AirFlow Mass,,,Drops the Velocity at exhaust outlet. With practically NO Back Pressure on exhaust,,,the Pop of the engine's pumping is communicated thru the exhaust with additional resonance due to the rapid Rise/Fall of system pressures. Not reffering to lean misfire pop,,,but the popgun/bottle cork rarefaction type of pop Lots more complicated and complex than that,,, but it all boils down to the effects of Air Mass,and Pressure,and Velocities at different point of the engine /Air Intake/Exhaust. All of which behave entirely differently during accel/deccels

i haven‘t been able to get the front brake working right. The caliper won‘t release all the way which causes the brake to drag. So far I have put a new caliper on and changed the brake fluid and bleed it but that still didn‘t solve the problem. If you could give me any input at all I would really appreciate it.: s

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