Pre-Painted Galvanized Steel Sheet/Coil High Quality Green Color

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
100 m.t.
Supply Capability:
20000 m.t./month

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1. Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil Description:

With GI as base material, after pretreatment (degrease and chemical treatment ) and liquid dope with several layers of color, then after firing and cooling, finally the plate steel is called pre-painted galvanized (aluzinc) steel. Pre-painted galvanized steel is good capable of decoration, molding, corrosion resistance. It generally displays superior workability, durability and weather resistance.

2.Main Features of the Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil:

• Excellent process capability

• Smooth and flat surface

• Workability, durability 

• Excellent heat resistance performance

• High strength

• Good formability

• Good visual effect

 

3.Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil Images

Pre-Painted Galvanized Steel Sheet/Coil  High Quality Green Color

 

4.Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil Specification

Standard: AISI, ASTM, BS, DIN, GB, JIS 

Grade: DX51D, DX52D 

Thickness: 0.17-2.0mm 

Brand Name: KMRLON 

Model Number: coil 

Type: Steel Coil 

Technique: Cold Rolled 

Surface Treatment: Coated 

Application: Boiler Plate 

Special Use: High-strength Steel Plate 

Width: 20-1250mm 

Length: customized 

commoidty: pre-painted galvanized steel coil 

Thickness: 0.13-4.0mm 

width: 20-1250mm 

zinc coating: 40-180g/m2 

printing thickness: top side: 20+/-5 microns, back side: 5-7 microns 

color: all RAL color 

surface treatment: color coated 

coil weight: 4-7 tons 

coil ID: 508/610mm 

packaging: standard seaworthy packing 

5.FAQ of Pre-Painted Galvanized/Aluzinc Steel Coil

1. What’s the application of this product?

Roof, roof structure, surface sheet of balcony, frame of window, etc.

2. What’s the brand of the paint?

We use the best brand of all of the word—AKZO.

3. How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management system,every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test;We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

4. How long can we receive the product after purchase?

Usually within thirty working days after receiving buyer’s advance payment or LC. We will arrange the factory manufacturing as soon as possible. The cargo readiness usually takes 15-25 days, but the shipment will depend on the vessel situation.

 

 


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Q:carbon steel strength?
There's no way to tell from the information you posted. Given it's for a machete I would guess it would be a fairly high carbon steel. Rust resistance will be relatively poor. It will last for years though as long as you clean and dry it after use.
Q:can you put nylon strings on a steel string acoustic guitar?
Yes you can! The neck of the guitar will be fine if the tension is less (which it is for nylon strings). Knot the nylon strings about 3 times at the end then push through the bridge hole and push the pin down. The guitar will need tuning more regularly but the sound is great especially with a fibreglass bowlback (Martin Smith £50 from E Bay). Through an amp it is awsome. A cheap fix. PS Don't wind around the winding post too many times as the extra tuning will stretch the strings.
Q:how to tell the difference between steel and nylon strings?
Nylon strings are made of nylon; steel strings are made of .... if you put steel strings on your nylon string (classical style) guitar, you will destroy it. The instrument cannot stand up under the tension required for the strings, they will not fit in the saddle properly, they will cut the nut, and your machine heads may break. ... now if you're asking about the three lowest strings, those are metal wound around nylon on a nylon string guitar.
Q:Stainless steel kitchen sink cleaning and polish?
Lowe's has a stainless steel cleaner/polish....it works great!!
Q:Titanium vs Surgical Steel in Earrings?
Implant grade titanium is much better than surgical steel. The nickel content in it (which is what alot of people are allergic to) is virtually non-existant. Though most people with a nickel allergy are fine with surgical steel too, its too small for most people to react to. But the odd few people do. Its the same with everything. Good surgical steel is probably better than cheap titanium. But implant grade ti will beat it hands down. And ti is alot stronger, and is also used in surgical impants and as replacement bits too. But a big lump of titanium hip is going to be expensive. If you're not allergic to steel, theres little reason for the extra cost, especially if it's likely to outlive you. Niobium has no nickel in at all. But that really is expensive, and I've never seen any threaded. Any particular reason why you ask? ----- Piercing-wise titanium will be better than steel. Unless they carry some not so great ti. You should be fine with steel though.
Q:damascus steel knife making?
Here's what you need, the cable should be a minimum of 9/16 with large wires. You need some borax (20 mule team from the store). A good hot coal, coke, or gas forge. If the cable has fiber rope in the center it will need to be removed. Fuse the ends of the cable to keep them from coming apart. I use my welder and while I'm at it I weld a handle to make it easier. Heat it in the forge when the forge is properly heated, rotate it. Some people will burn the oil out, but I've found that the forge does that just fine. Rotate the cable while it's heating. When it begins the turn red pull it out and sprinkle the borax over it, don't hold back use a lot. It will begin to melt and bubble into the steel. Put the cable back in the forge, rotate and watch. This is the critical part. When the steel starts to turn from orange/yellow to almost yellow/white take it out and lightly (I use a 2lb hammer) begin hammering the cable into a square or rectangle. If you do it right you'll notice that it will begin to fight the hammer, that's when you know the weld it taking place. You'll have to repeat the process down the length of the cable. Once you have the billet made you can begin the process of shaping the edge and tang. Once you have it shaped, follow proper forge procedure then grind all the yuck off and finish shaping. Then harden and temper and finish it out. Good luck. I almost forgot a very important part. Befor you start hammering put the cable in a vice while at welding temp (if you are strong you can use a couple of plyers) and twist it tight. On the next heat hold the cable in your left and and lay it on the anvil. Concentrate on your light hammer blows being on your side of the cable. This forces the cable strands together. If you are using smaller cable like 9/16 you can double the cable up and weld two peices together, it is easier and makes for a prettier blade. Doing this you don't have to worry about twisting the cable and you can hit it much harder to start with.
Q:Bendable steel for crossbow bow.?
So i do know way more about compound bows than I do about crossbows, but i'm going to enterprise an opinion. For my part, i would probably lean toward the compound bow. A part of it's only that i like them higher. However, moreover to that, more often than not when you find yourself hunting you will carry the crossbow loaded, on the grounds that the are typically awkward to load when you have the shot. If you're hunting from a blind or from a tree stand (and might figure out easy methods to load the item whilst you're up there) that's almost always ok. But when you need to tote a crossbow round whilst it's loaded, that may be a bit dicier proposition. Most crossbow safeties are lovely crude making the likelihood of by chance firing one alot bigger than with a rifle. Now, to the plus facet, a crossbow has essentially the entire upside of firing a rifle - best accuracy, same ergonomics, can run a scope on them. Without the downside - no real recoil, no longer too loud and you simply have a lovely excellent trigger on about any of them. Compounds are way more work. Plus it is much tougher to be accurate under stress with a compound than a crossbow. Regarding the protection? Don't particularly find out about that. After I was once doing shooting alot of archery, my 3 - D bow for outdoor stuff was once at ninety two pounds with a fifty five% letoff. My goal bow was once round 60. I had to pretty on the whole take care of string stretch, and tuning with the three - D bow. So i'd expect a crossbow to be in that regional. 5 hours to your nearest Bass pro? Good for a crossbow perhaps it's valued at it because no longer too many places raise them. Nonetheless, should you do back to a compound bow it appears rough to feel that would be your nearest archery professional shop. Thinkingblade
Q:what steel anodizes well?
Steel doesn't anodize in the sense that aluminum and some other metals do. However, it can be heat-colored. The trick is to clean the surface first (it must be oxide free), then heat gently until the colors appear. These are called temper colors in steel. They are due to a thin adherent layer of oxide that forms and thickens as temperature is increased. They are quite temperature dependent. As the steel is heated, the first color to appear is pale yellow. This will progress through darker yellows, browns, purples, and blues as the temperature rises. Above blue, the oxide becomes the gray/black color you are apparently getting - this is the result of heating too fast and too hot. See the chart at the site below for colors in plain carbon steel. Note that the temperatures are pretty low - It all starts around 400 F and if you go above 600 F the show's all over.
Q:where can I find the weight of steel?
of course you couldn't find it, the weigh depends on the size of the piece. What you are looking for, I think, is density. Below are a few tables, there are lots more. .
Q:quinching steel... hardening?
boy what a though question ! let me explain. when you rapidly cool a steel from high temperatures(depending on steel type) with water or oil or other means , it is called quenching. it depends on the steel type to say if it is better to quench it with oil or water but basically in water you will have a harder steel rather than oil. for some steels if you do this you will ruin it's properties ! you can't totally tell what kind of steel do you have until you get it analyzed with Quantometer analyzer with a pocket knife it is more like an estimation and it can't be trust able generally if you can scratch the steel with your knife it means it is not a hard steel and it might not be expensive. I hope that helps but for more information i need to know more !

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