Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil XPE Foam Heat Insulation Material
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- 5000 m²/month
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aluminum foil XPE foam heat insulation material
1.Structure:AL/green XPE foam/AL
2,Normal roll size:1.5*22.25M
3,:AWTA ,SGS, ISO9000
aluminum foil XPE foam heat insulation material :
Heat laminated, foam core providing an exceptional barrier against conductive heat, humidity, water and vapour penetration
Two outer layers of 99%+ pure aluminium (with very strong reinforced weave/scrim)
Reflecting up to 97% of radiant heat
Excellent fire properties
Excellent acoustic properties
Environmentally/Eco friendly and fibre-free
Anti-slip properties make it safer for installers
Compliance with the latest insulation standards
30m2 roll (1350mm x 22.25M) PLUS Over-lap (150mm x 22.25m)
- Q: I have an apartment building that has mold in it. I'm trying to do everything I can to increase the airflow. Sure, the tenants might have to spend a mint on heat, but if it improved the air quality, maybe it would be a good idea.
- mold needs moisture to start/grow. find out why there's moisture and fix that first. Just creating more air flow won't stop the mold from growing and it won't necessarily make the air quality better if mold is growing in the walls. since you said it was roof insulation, (I'm gonna assume you meant attic) check the roof for leaks. I wouldn't think you'd have to get rid of all the insulation but I'd definately get rid of anything moldy. Blown in isulation is fairly cheap to replace. Lowe's sells a mold test kit, not sure how it works but I saw them yesterday when I was in there. Might be worth looking into getting one.
- Q: I need to call around and find a contractor to repair my roof. I thought it might be a good idea to at least have the name of this type of roofing correct so I don't sound like too much of a mark. Thank you in advance for your assistance.
- popcorn ceiling
- Q: Our end unit 1940"s row house has an old leaking bitumen roof . The water entry point can not be found so a replacement seems the way to go. A roofer suggested a replacement using Firestone 180, 1/2 inch fiberboard insulation covered with fiberglass base sheet, bitumen for flashing and fibered aluminum coating on wall coping . It's all Greek to be but fiberboard insulation and flashing material ? Should I be concerned?
- We use kingspan insulation, marine grade plyboard , 3/4 inch, and yes you can use bitumen as flashing. I hope i am not being condescending, but the flashing is the bit that goes from the roof and a little way up the wall and is then "pointed" into the bricks, thus forming a water-proof barrier.
- Q: So I'm renovating an old farmhouse with a metal roof and there is no insulation in the attic. I was up in the attic checking for leaks since we just got some freezing rain and it is currently melting I thought now was the perfect time to check. I found no leaks but I did notice the roof was sweating with noticeable beads of water in many places and many of the 2x4's that act as the frame were damp, although none were rotted (I found that odd as the house is approx. 140 years old and those are the original 2x4's. I could tell that the attic does have vents so I guess it dries out before rotting or mold occurs.. but makes me wonder if I put down some roll-in faced R-30 Owens Corning Insulation and then add a plywood floor over top if everything will be fine.. or not so fine..
- Hi, GA. On my second coffee here, so bear with me if a little fuzzy. Trying to envision what you're looking at, first thing I hear is 2x4 roof framing, not say the 2x6 or 2x8 rafters I would expect. A 2x4 structure and metal roof is a light build more suitable for a shed or outbuilding than a home. Wouldn't tolerate much additional weight, like from plywood. Next thing, which I don't hear, is whether there's moisture on the attic's "floor", where you're standing. I'm thinking the moisture you're noting is above you, on the undersurface of the roofing, and on the rafters. Finally, while some condensation on the underside makes sense, it would also seem quite possible that there are a number of small leaks through the roof. My goals would be to first ensure there are no leaks through the roof surface, then to ensure the attic indeed has enough venting, then to both reduce air from the lower living level bleeding through up to the attic space (also good to reduce convective heat loss), then to insulate the attic floor to reduce radiant heat loss from below and warming of the attic air, pretty much in that order. The prize is a leak-free roof over a cold attic space.
- Q: This is blocking airflow and I'm having it removed after I bought the house. There is already insulation on the attic 'floor'. This is double insulated and is not correct. Why would anyone do this?
- No building codes back then, and maybe he was thinking about putting an extra room up there then you would have to insulate the rafters also
- Q: I'd like to put a train set in my loft / attic, so to avoid it being cold in there during the winter I'm considering having no insulation in the floor of it where one usually would, thus allowing the heat to rise into the loft. Then, insulate the roof between the rafters instead. Is this just as good at keeping the heating costs down?
- If you are in a cold climate,do not insulate between the top chords of the trusses/rafters.Ventilation is required or your roof deck will mold and rot.You could insulate under the top chord,but will need to strap it out substantially to get the required r value.You will need to build a knee wall at the eves to ensure you don't block the eves with insulation.A product called rafter mate will help in this area.Ventilation is very important.
- Q: Without loft insulation ,the roof space is full of air.Why does this not keep the heat in?
- Because air can circulate, (it's called convection) and transfer a lot of heat. In other words, air alone is a very poor insulator. .
- Q: i live in a tropical country and i need to insulate my roof to block off the heat from the sun...which insulation would best help me? aluminum foil with foam, real foil with foam or PE with foam? pls help...thank u so much!
- Use HDPE foam (high density polyethylene) - possibly with a layer of aluminum foil sandwiched in between. It's also waterproof (polystyrene isn't).
- Q: Tax Question: Itemized receipt for roofing and insulation?
- The roof would not be a tax deduction because it was part of your living area already and this is ordinary maintenance. But the insulation could have a local rebate or a general rebate involved.
- Q: we have liq. ammonia storage tank (capacity 40000 ton)having double wall & suspended deck.liq. NH3 stored at temp -33 degree cent. insulation (form ) being provided to annular space (wall ) but not on top roof . can you explain for exact reason.with regardsanvar shaikh
- Insulation is less necessary on the roof. The ammonia is mostly a liquid, and a liquid would absorb heat rapidly from tank walls. Above the liquid is vapor, and vapor absorb heat much less rapidly than liquid does, so insulation is less important there.
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Multifoil Roofing Insulation - Aluminum Foil XPE Foam Heat Insulation Material
- Loading Port:
- Shanghai
- Payment Terms:
- TT OR LC
- Min Order Qty:
- -
- Supply Capability:
- 5000 m²/month
OKorder Service Pledge
OKorder Financial Service
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