Prepainted Galvalume Rolled Coil for Construction roof

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
25 m.t.
Supply Capability:
30000 m.t./month

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Product Description:

Structure of Prepainted Galvalume Rolled Coil

 Prepainted Galvalume Rolled Coil for Construction roof

Description of Prepainted Galvalume Rolled Coil
Aluminum zinc coils is a kind of coated steel coil/sheet. With the cold rolled steel of different strength and thickness as substrate, it is produced through applying Al-Zn coat on both faces by hot dip process. In its coating, Al accounts for about 55%, Si 1.6%, while the remaining is Zn. Aluminum zinc coils enjoys both the physical protective feature and durability of Al and the electrochemical protective property of Zn. And its surface has bright silver color and regular embossed-like figure, which are highly decorative. 

 

Main Feature of Prepainted Galvalume Rolled Coil

1.Corrosion resistance: It mainly depends on the aluminum protection. When the zinc being worn, the aluminum will  form a dense layer of aluminum oxide, resist corrosion material to prevent further corrosion inside. 
2. Heat resistance: Aluminum zinc alloy steel sheet has excellent heat resistance, can withstand high temperatures over 300 centigrade, and is similar with aluminized steel high temperature oxidation resistance. It often used in chimney pipes, ovens, fluorescent lighting device and the device cover. 
3. Heat reflective: Galvanized steel plate heat-reflective high rate is twice as galvanized steel, often used to make insulation materials. 
4. Economy: Because density of 55% AL-Zn is smaller than the density of Zn, so in the same weight and thickness of Galvanized zinc layer, aluminum-zinc steel plate is larger area more than 3% of galvanized steel sheet. 

 

Applications of Prepainted Galvalume Rolled Coil
1. Construction and building: roofing; ventilating duct; handrail; partition panel;etc.

2. Electric appliance: refrigerator; washing machine; refrigerator; DVD;etc.

3.Transportation: oil tank; road sign; etc.
4.Agriculture:barn; etc.

5.Others:vending machine; game machine; etc.   

 

 

Prepainted Prepainted Galvalume Rolled Coil

 Prepainted Galvalume Rolled Coil for Construction roof

 

 Specifications of Prepainted Galvalume Rolled Coil 

Structure

Item

Thickness

Type

Feature

Laminated film

50μm

Polyethylene

Protecting from scratchs and contamination(option)

Top coat

20μm

Polyester Fluorine

Chemical resistance and formability

Primer coat

5μm

Polyester

Workability, corrosion resistance and adhesion to the primer coating

Chemical treatment

1μm

Chromate

Good adhesion and corrosion resistance

Substrate

0.2mm-1.2mm

GI.GL,AL

GI.GL,AL

Back coat

5±2μm

Epoxy

Corrosion resistance and adhesion to the substrate

 

FAQ of Prepainted Aluminum Zinc Rolled Coil for Construction

We have organized several common questions for our clients,may help you sincerely: 

1. What is the minimum order quantity ?  

Our MOQ is 50mt for each size. And we will consider to give more discount if you make big order like 1000 tons and more. Further more, the more appropriate payment term your offer the better price we can provide. 

2. How long can we receive the product after purchase?

Usually within thirty working days after receiving buyer’s advance payment or LC. We will arrange the factory manufacturing as soon as possible. The cargo readiness usually takes 15-25 days, but the shipment will depend on the vessel situation.

3. How to guarantee the quality of the products?

We have established the international advanced quality management system,every link from raw material to final product we have strict quality test;We resolutely put an end to unqualified products flowing into the market. At the same time, we will provide necessary follow-up service assurance.

 

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Q:Steel toe boots safe?
I have been wearing Brahma brand steel toe work boots for the past 10 years (no, not the same pair for 1o years.. Each pair last me 2-4 years). They have ANSI class 75 steel toes. I work with cars, engines, tools all day long.. In the last 10 years I have had a transmission fall on my foot from about 2 feet high.. A bare cast iron engine block (153 lbs) break the bolts holding it to an engine stand and land on both of my feet. A camaro back over my foot with it's left rear wheel. Non of those things even dented the steel toe.. Just cut the leather covering the steel. No harm at all was done to my toes/feet. With out the steel toe boots, I know my toes/feet would have been broken.. 10 years so far, and from my results I plan on wearing steel toe boots for atleast another 30 years.
Q:What is meant by 440 Steel?
The number just indicates which class of steel alloy it belongs. Yours happens to be a 400 series and happens to have no Nickel in it (440 Steel) and a higher amount of carbon (Nickel is very common in steel) When I say alloy, I'm referring to the different chemical formulas and processing of steel which vary for different uses like industrial use, medical use or decorative use. Think of the different alloys like the types of soft drinks out there. Coke, Pepsi and Dr. Pepper. They all have very similar chemical formulas; yet differ with their secret ingredients which is apparent in the taste.
Q:is a 1962 steel penny worth anything?
Is this an american penny? If it is, it is copper. They only made steel pennies in 1943. Someone claims they have seen a rare 1944, but who really knows? A 1962 will be worth a penny unless it is part of a mint or proof set. During WW II, all 1943 U.S. cents were struck in zinc-finished steel instead of copper. The copper saved from this one-year issue was used in the war effort, mainly in the manufacture of shell casings. Most of the so calledsteelies were minted in Philadelphia, but some steel pennies were struck in Denver, and San Francisco. Edit Brandi: If it is steel it will stick to a magnet. It truly sounds like you have a discolored penny. This can happen with exposure to different chemicals and even machine washing. The D means that it was minted in Denver You can view a lot of different coin collection samples on OKorder. The values are consistent with expert numismatic pricing. I strongly feel you have a 1962 copper penny.
Q:Stainless steel or white appliances?
We got rid of the Stainless Steel because they showed every smudge, finger print and smear. Very hard to clean. Harder to keep clean. I recommend any color except Stainless Steel.
Q:Why not use stainless steel to make coins?
Stainless steel has been used by some countries to make coins, but it's not an ideal metal. When a coin is struck, a die comes down and strikes the blank with many tons of force (the blank is also sitting on top of another die--one has the image on the obverse (front) of the coin, while the other die has the image of the reverse of the coin). When the die strikes the blank, the force causes the metal in the blank to flow into the recesses of the die. The problem with stainless steel is that it doesn't want to flow into the die. To get an image, either the relief (how high the raised portion of the design will be) has to be very low, and the coin has to have a simple design, or they have to greatly increase the pressure of the strike. This slows the coining press down, and greatly shortens the life of the dies.
Q:Any ideals for makeshift steel boning?
Don't try it. For two main reasons: 1. Corset boning is not just strips of flat steel; it is made from coiled high tension spring steel with clever metal ends to prevent tearing any fabric that comes into contact. You could try strips of hard wood such as teak, ash, oak. The risk is that the st rips will break when they bend around your corseted figure. Then they'll be dangerous and could puncture your skin. 2. Corset bones are there in the corset to support the fabric; not to exert any pressure on you for figure reduction. It is the cut of the fabric that produces the shape, but bones stop the fabric from crinkling, or gathering into your waist as the tension is applied. That is why commercial bones are specially made to be fairly lightweight, flexible in the right directions for your figure, and will not rust or otherwise deteriorate with wear or careful cleaning. So go for easiest you can get from the Net. That's my advice. OK?
Q:what is stronger Tempered Steel Blade or Carbon Steel Blade?
1. all steel blades are tempered, whether they are high carbon blades or low carbon blades. 2. It depends on what kind of steel they are made from. So im going to answer this question, using the following qualifications. 440A stainless steel 440C stainless steel - high carbon. The higher the carbon level, the more brittle a blade becomes. But the higher the carbon level, will increase a steel’s wear resistance , meaning it will have a better edge retention 2. They both will work well. Pros's / Con's The 440C blades will need less sharpening, but are harder to sharpen The 4401 blades will need to be sharpened more, but are far easier to resharpen. So it basically comes down to where you will be using them and how you will be using them. If your gonna be out in the middle of the jungle and stopping for the night, then the high carbon blade would probably be better, you use it all day, resharpen it at night. If your gonna be cutting brush, tobbaco, etc on your land, then the 440A would be better, because you can take a couple of min's to resharpen it often
Q:Stainless steel can be used to do??
Stainless steel can be used to (1) industrial use stainless steel (2) building decoration use stainless steel;(3) medical equipment (4) life with stainless steel tableware and the Jawaysteel is a great Chinese company, offer various kinds of stainless steel Maybe you can to their advice
Q:Is VG-1 Stainless Steel any good in a folding knife?
I carry a french knife that has been made the same way for 400 years , the manufacturer is called Opinel,...they fold up and are carbon steel and for what I do are very period correct for anything from 1700's through 1800's...any way they are very good and come in like 5 different sizes.... check and see if they have a web site....
Q:Is Tempered Steel synonymous with Hardened Steel?
Hardening is the preliminary process. The fully hardened state may be far too brittle for practical use. The tempering process is tailored to reduce the actual hardness, to introduce more flexible alloys. The tempering method employed may be done at relatively low temperatures, but some alloys require prolonged soaking at elevated temperatures. Some may be cooled in air, but others may require quenching to end the process.

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