• Pre-painted Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel Coil System 1
  • Pre-painted Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel Coil System 2
  • Pre-painted Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel Coil System 3
Pre-painted Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel Coil

Pre-painted Hot-Dip Galvanized Steel Coil

Ref Price:
get latest price
Loading Port:
China Main Port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
-

Add to My Favorites

Follow us:


OKorder Service Pledge

Quality Product, Order Online Tracking, Timely Delivery

OKorder Financial Service

Credit Rating, Credit Services, Credit Purchasing

Available Size:

ManufacturerThickness Width Length of plate Inner diameter of coil

0.2-1.2mm 800/914/1000/1200/1219/1250mm 1000-6000mm508mm/610mm

Coated Mass OF(Prepainted galvanized steel coils) printed PPGI coils:

Base plateAvailable Coated Mass(g/m^2)

Galvanized Steel80, 100, 120, 160, 180


AvailablePainting OF (Prepainted galvanized steel coils) printed PPGI coils:

Category ofPainting Item Code

Polyester PE

High-durabilitypolyester HDP

Silicon modifiedpolyesters SMP

Polyvinylidenefluoride PVDF

Easy-Cleaning —

PaintingThickness Top side: 20+5microns;

Bottom side:5~7microns.

Color SystemProduce according to RAL Color System or as per buyer’s color sample.

Paintingstructure Top surface Bottom surface  

Primer coatingNo coating 1/0

Primer coatingPrimer coating 1/1

Primer coating +Finish coating No coating 2/0

Primer coating +Finish coating Primer coating or single back coating 2/1

Primer coating +Finish coating Primer coating + Finish back coating 2/2

Q:What is the process of uncoiling steel coils?
The process of uncoiling steel coils involves unwinding the tightly wound steel coils using specialized equipment such as uncoiling machines or decoilers. These machines utilize hydraulic or mechanical systems to hold the coil securely while gradually releasing the tension on the coil. As the coil is released, it starts to unwind, with the steel strip gradually straightening out. This process allows for the easy feeding of the steel strip into further production processes such as cutting, stamping, or forming.
Q:it has 2 be 20 inches overall, and 2and1/2 inches wide and .25 or more inches thick... im thinking truck steel but im not sure thx
I made mine from a power hack saw blade. Granted it isn;t a quarter inch thick but it sure works well. Used the tooth part for the blade edge, just ground off the teeth. I can use a hammer or a stone on he back side of the blade to chop through the bone when cleaning deer.
Q:How do steel coils perform in extreme weather conditions?
Steel coils are designed to withstand extreme weather conditions due to their durability and strength. They are often coated or galvanized to protect against corrosion, making them highly resistant to rust and other forms of weather damage. Additionally, the structural integrity of steel coils allows them to withstand high winds, heavy precipitation, and temperature fluctuations without significant deformation or damage.
Q:I'm pretty sure that this topic has been beaten to death by now. But, I still can't get a definite answer. With stainless steel, you get better corrosion resistance, and you will hold and edge longer. With carbon steel, you will hold a sharper edge, and you could forge a knife blade longer than 2 ft without breakage. I'm personally a fan of stainless steel ( the 440 grade stuff ), just because it seems to hold up to use and abuse better in the long run. HOWEVER, I have NEVER had a factory made knife break on me. I don't think that they would try to sell you a knife that didn't do what it was meant to do, at least to a reasonable degree. (I work for a living, and can't afford a custom $600 knife.) What do you think? Is this a pointless topic? Will there ever be a winner?
I hate stainless steel! I hate shiny blades also! When I was a kid knifes were awesome! You could actually sharpen them! :) If we bought a new knife we would take an orange and slice it and leave the juice on the blade to purposefully darken it. If you had a shiny blade that looked like stainless you were not cool. :) I think most anyone who had an old knife from back in the 70's or before would agree that these new stainless knives are crap. I have not seen anything perform close to the old blades in stainless. Today I bought a case CV Sod Buster hoping it will perform like the old knives. What reading I have done the Chrome Vanadium is supposed to be like the old steel. I sure hope it is. Now to find some fruit to get rid of this annoying shiny blade! :)
Q:Is steel easier to weld?Which is more brittle/less flexible?
Note: the easiest way to join steel to aluminum is to drill holes and BOLT them together...... You cannot WELD steel to aluminum.(except using extreme methods like explosion welding......) For all intents and purposes they are dissimilar metals, meaning they will not bond to each other. Also, aluminum has a much lower melting point than steel. It is possible to join steel and aluminum by *Soldering,* using tin/zinc hard solder. This requires a special flux designed exclusively for soldering aluminum though. The heating process is also a bit delicate as you must avoid overheating the joint. I work as a welder and I've only soldered Al three or four times. Steel is easiest to weld by far. If you set the equipment correctly, a six year-old kid can make a good weld on steel. Aluminum requires special equipment and procedures to weld. It's not easy. The brittleness of aluminum depends on it's alloy content. Most of the aluminum that's used today is not pure, rather it's in the form of aluminum ALLOYS which contain either zinc, magnesium, silicon, or manganese. these elements increase the strength dramatically, but also make it much less ductile. Commercially pure (CP) aluminum is very ductile, but it's also rather weak. Pure aluminum is used to make aluminum foil, as it's so soft and ductile it can easily be rolled paper-thin. The best aluminum alloys can come near in strength to mild steel, but weigh less than half as much as steel. Note that steel itself is an alloy of iron and carbon, Carbon increases the strength of iron in the same way that zinc or magnesium increase aluminum's strength. Most of the commonly used aluminum alloys are somewhat more brittle than mild steel, but not greatly so.
Q:I've heard different things bout them, though I do not know this. Oh, and if you know where you can buy some raw or get custom made stuff out of black steel please let me know it would be greatly appreciated. Oh and my friend told me there is a black steel that can be sharpened and silver will be underneath, is this also true? Thank you very much for answering ^^
black steel and black tron are not same.
Q:I know that steel wool is coated with... something... that protects it from rusting. I need to know what that is, and how to get it off.
It will be very effective if you remove the oil by appling protective polymer spin coating to the edge, top and underside of the wafer, which makes those surfaces impervious to most chemical etchants. To learn more about the spin coating theory you may check out the following source.
Q:How are steel coils inspected for quality?
Steel coils are inspected for quality through various methods such as visual inspection, dimensional checks, and non-destructive testing techniques. This ensures that the coils meet specific criteria including surface finish, dimensions, and structural integrity.
Q:I bought my Gerber Scout for 29 bucks at the local Walmart a couple months ago, and so far it's performed better than any of my previous knives (a couple of low quality Bucks, and a Winchester). However, my friend just bought a 50 dollar Buck knife and I absolutely love it, so I'm debating trading mine in and pitching in a bit of cash for the same kind.What troubles me is the fact that everybody seems to be bashing 440A steel. I hear a lot of bad things about it; how it is soft, chips easy, dull quickly, etc. How bad is 440A steel really, and would it be worth trading in my Gerber plus about 30 cash for a Buck Vantage Pro? Apparently the Vantage Pro uses S30V steel, so is it really that big of an upgrade, from 440A to S30V? Thank you.
440 steel is fine for most knives, but there are better quality steels out there for specialized uses. If you like the knife you have, don't worry about what other people say. If you like the new knife more, trade for it. Sometimes I question why people have to ask so many questions about what's better than what.
Q:What are the best types of steel for swords
The okorder /

1. Manufacturer Overview

Location
Year Established
Annual Output Value
Main Markets
Company Certifications

2. Manufacturer Certificates

a) Certification Name  
Range  
Reference  
Validity Period  

3. Manufacturer Capability

a)Trade Capacity  
Nearest Port
Export Percentage
No.of Employees in Trade Department
Language Spoken:
b)Factory Information  
Factory Size:
No. of Production Lines
Contract Manufacturing
Product Price Range

Send your message to us

This is not what you are looking for? Post Buying Request

Similar products

New products

Hot products


Related keywords