Galvanized Steel Coil with Spangles or Skin Passed CNBM

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Loading Port:
Tianjin
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
20 m.t.
Supply Capability:
3000 m.t./month

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Product Description:

Quick Details

  • Standard: ASTM

  • Grade: FS Type A and B

  • Type: Steel Coil

  • Surface Treatment: Galvanized

  • Application: Forming steel

  • Width: 600-1534mm

  • Length: Coil

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:Oscillated wound: one coil per bundle, inner is the protecting humidity-proof wax paper. Medium is plastic film. Outer is sackcloth or compound paper packing. Coil to be laid on single type pallet (one pile per pallet)
Delivery Detail:Depends on specification and order quanity.

Specifications:

Galvanized steel sheet /coil features:

1. Zinc coating :40-275g( as required)

2. thickness:0.13-2.0mm
3. width:600-1250mm(900mm,1215mm,1250mm,1000mm the most common)

4. coil id:508mm

5. coil weight: 3-5MT(as required)

6. surface:regular/mini/zero spangle, chromated, skin pass, dry etc.

7. Application: With excellent cold bending molded manufacturablity, good decoration effect, strong anti-corrosion ability, galvanized steel coils and sheets are also pollution-free and easily recycled. Accordingly, they can be used as final products and basic plates of color coated steel coils and widely applied in construction, home appliances, decoration, ect.



What is the application of Steel Coil?

There are two sides,one is out side: Workshop, agricultural warehouse, residential precast unit, corrugated roof, roller shutter door, rainwater drainage pipe, retailer booth;the other is inside: Door, doorcase, light steel roof structure, folding screen, elevator, stairway, vent gutter.

Galvanized Steel Coil with Spangles or Skin Passed  CNBM


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Q:Nylon or steel......?
I like the sound of steel better, sweetie! But nylon is nice too, especially if you wanna play, but you don't want to disturb others!
Q:Stretching Ears: Acrylic vs Steel?
It depends on your body and what you prefer. If you body is allergic to one of them you would have to chose for another one. If it's not allergic to any, than you can use whatever you like the most, just try both.
Q:Heat transfer through steel?
yes it is very possible. as what our teacher in physics said that steel is a good conductor of heat..
Q:Will painted steel rust?
Painted Steel
Q:Can you WELD STEEL to ALUMINUM? How much heavier/stronger is STEEL?
Note: the easiest way to join steel to aluminum is to drill holes and BOLT them together...... You cannot WELD steel to aluminum.(except using extreme methods like explosion welding......) For all intents and purposes they are dissimilar metals, meaning they will not bond to each other. Also, aluminum has a much lower melting point than steel. It is possible to join steel and aluminum by *Soldering,* using tin/zinc hard solder. This requires a special flux designed exclusively for soldering aluminum though. The heating process is also a bit delicate as you must avoid overheating the joint. I work as a welder and I've only soldered Al three or four times. Steel is easiest to weld by far. If you set the equipment correctly, a six year-old kid can make a good weld on steel. Aluminum requires special equipment and procedures to weld. It's not easy. The brittleness of aluminum depends on it's alloy content. Most of the aluminum that's used today is not pure, rather it's in the form of aluminum ALLOYS which contain either zinc, magnesium, silicon, or manganese. these elements increase the strength dramatically, but also make it much less ductile. Commercially pure (CP) aluminum is very ductile, but it's also rather weak. Pure aluminum is used to make aluminum foil, as it's so soft and ductile it can easily be rolled paper-thin. The best aluminum alloys can come near in strength to mild steel, but weigh less than half as much as steel. Note that steel itself is an alloy of iron and carbon, Carbon increases the strength of iron in the same way that zinc or magnesium increase aluminum's strength. Most of the commonly used aluminum alloys are somewhat more brittle than mild steel, but not greatly so.
Q:how to make carbon steel?
Carburized steel is not the same thing as carbon steel. All steel has carbon in it, but carbon steel is defined as Steel is considered to be carbon steel when no minimum content is specified or required for chromium, cobalt, molybdenum, nickel, niobium, titanium, tungsten, vanadium or zirconium, or any other element to be added to obtain a desired alloying effect; when the specified minimum for copper does not exceed 1.04 percent; or when the maximum content specified for any of the following elements does not exceed the percentages noted: manganese 1.65, silicon 0.60, copper 0.60. Carburizing is a surface treatment. Dropping hot steel in oil is oil quenching. It might get a little carbon in the surface, but oil quenching is mainly used as a slightly slower quenching process than water quenching, not for carburizing. Once it starts cooling down the carbon won't diffuse in. Quenching is used to change the hardness. The simplest way to carburize steel is to pack charcoal around it and heat it to 900 C or so. Industrial processes use a gas like carbon monoxide, but that's mostly just for easier process control.
Q:quality of steel ..................!!?
Various ways: Carry out mechanical testing on it to see how strong it is. eg. Tensile testing, hardness testing, impact testing. Examine a cleaned up sample on the steel under a microscope to see what the steel grain structure is like and what condition it is in (hardened etc.) Or the easiest way is to ask the supplier what it is and then find a specification sheet giving you all the above information.
Q:How to refinish stainless steel appliance?
Scratches are difficult to remove. Most kitchen appliances, sinks, and counters have a polished finish with short directional polishing lines. Restoring a polished finish to its original appearance requires a professional such as a company that specializes in fabricating or polishing stainless steel. If the refrigerator or dishwasher door panel is replaceable, purchasing a new panel is normally more cost effective than professional refinishing. The homeowner may want to consider obtaining replacement panels with angel hair, distressed, swirl, or embossed finish. These finishes help to hide light scratching and can be obtained from companies that specialize in stainless steel finishes. Counters and appliance doors that are not easily removable must be refinished in place. When the counter is refinished, it may have long rather than short polishing lines. If a slightly different finish is acceptable and cost is a consideration, a homeowner can refinish the counter or appliance using a non-metallic abrasive pad such as a Scotch Brite® pad. This can be done by rubbing the surface with the pad using long uniform strokes in the same direction as the current polishing lines. This will not eliminate deep scratches. A professional may offer this finish as a less expensive option. The resulting finish is normally referred to as a hairline or long grain finish. Some appliance companies are starting to offer this finish.
Q:what type of steel is used to make rail tracks?
I don't know what the technical name is, but steel used in rail is higher in carbon content. There is a trade-off as the higher carbon content tends to make them more brittle, and those rails with the highest carbon content are used exclusively for tight curvature in heavy grade. It's amazing to watch the welders with this stuff. Torches take too long, so diamond saws are utilized for cutting. The stuff is more problematic in severe cold, too. Railroading in the mountains as I've always done, nighttime and its severe chill causes pull - aparts, due to the contraction of CWR (Continuous Welded Rail) as a result of the cold, at least two or three times a week. In an extended deep freeze, the problems are nightly. What is interesting to note is that the pull aparts tend to happen with equal frequency regardless of whether a part of tangent track or curve. Still, I'd rather have it under me. I know it caused some major problems on the SP in the '80s, but it was cheaper, imported steel that was the significant part of the problem, not so much the high carbon content. Once again, you can't beat US steel.
Q:How to temper steel? ?
Heat treating easy, HA! It is the most critical part of bladesmithing. Done wrong and all those hours of work go up in smoke (or a snap of the steel). You'll need a bucket of oil, preferably one that is deep enough to go in point first. If not you'll have to go in edge first, not recommended on a double edged blade, ok for single edge. You'll need to build a charcoal fire long enough for the blade. You will need to blow air under the fire to get it hot enough, the challenge is getting the heat even. You get the fire going and established, put the blade in turning it back and forth (if you keep turning it in the same direction when it heats up you could work a twist in it). When it starts turning red pull it out and touch it with a magnet, if the magnet sticks put it back. Keep heating and repeating until the magnet no longer sticks. Heat a little more, then quench rapidly point first. Don't let the blade lean to one side as warpage will occur. When it cools enough to touch, check with a file. If the doesn't file cut then you've properly hardened the steel and it's ready for temper. Now comes the really hard part. Grind the scale off carefully,preferably with a side grinder with a flap wheel. I've had hard wheel break freshly hardened blades. After cleaning you'll need to put it in an oven (preferred) or use a torch and carefully heat the blade. Watch the temper colors (oven temp 500-550F) or with the torch as the steel turns colors blue to purple for a double edged weapon. Any warpage that occurs needs to be worked out at temping temp.

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