Q:Does it damage the engine, alternator and battery?

When a rookie get involved in car maintenance, then there starts the problem. Eg.To remove the water pump the rookie would not have proper tools . To swap a alternator the rookie would not disconnect the battery, so while connecting the cables should short the fuse. Then the rookie would like the know why it happened.

Q:I blew up my 3.9 and i have a 318 and i need to know if it will fit?

it will fit but you will need a wiring harness from a 318. or if you are good with wiring or a friend is you can usually adapt it but its a lot of work. good luck

Q:I bought a f20 motor (Type r Accord) but it came with no ecu its being swapped into a 92 accord I know most of these parts are interchangeable but I want to make sure. What is the name of this ecu for this engine? p28? or can i just buy h22 ecu and wiring harness and call it a day?

I'd recommend that you try and find a U pick/pull auto wreckers and hopefully they will have some vehicles like yours so you can not only find a good replacement harness but also learn more about what exactly is involved.Basically any harness has male-female plug in connectors that may run from under the hood to different comps and sensors etc and it could run to the inside of the vehicle to a fuse box or fuse box connector.Some harness's run along the engine and plug into different devices such as the fuel injectors etc then runs to some firewall etc plug in connectors.Many of different ground wires that may run to the frame/chassis or battery. Hope that helps and best of luck.By the way don't forget to clean the ground surfaces and the wire o-ring connectors with a wire brush and sandpaper etc before you install the replacement harness.

Q:i think i found the reason why it melted the wires. my windsheild wipers never did work on anything but high since ive had the car so i think it was a bad wiper motor that over heated the wires then they all melted together.

Yes, but it sounds as though you will have to splice in some wire to keep the harness long enough. The key to making a decent harness repair is to stagger the splices over enough length so the splices don't make a huge bulge. Five or six staggers should do it. You will need to bring the affected area out to where you can work with it if it is not in the open already, and that can be the hardest part of the job. Red and blue (they correspond to smaller and larger wire sizes) crimp splices are available at hardware stores, along with a proper crimp tool. Slice the cover (if there is one) for as far as you can, up to a foot on either side. Cut your add-in wire to a bunch of pieces of the same length and work on one wire at a time. When done use electrical tape to tape the cover (if any) back together and cover the gap where it was all melted. I have one other concern no wire should have a fuse so large that he wire could melt. The fuses exist to protect the wire. You will want to investigate further, I think.

Q:I own an Acura Legend '91 and the wire harness on the passenger side was torn apart. I think it damaged the wire towards the turning signal.

I'm not a big fan of patching wires on automobiles. The problem is the weather. Corrosion will just tear into any repair you do, unless you do a really fancy one. Like those barrel crimp connectors - utter and absolute junk. They make a variation on those which have heat-shrink ends on them, but not just heat-shrink, they actually release a gooey liquid which melts into the splice to keep out moisture. They're expensive though, $1 each or so. Last time I bought a factory harness repair kit, it came with those. Another option is to tin and solder the wire ends, and then shrink wrap it and then wrap with electrical tape. But working in close quarters, that is a major pain, great way to burn other wires, burn carpet, burn yourself. Be sure to re-wrap the harness so wires are not flailing around, that will break them.

Q:Does anyone know what the wire harness is called that runs from the chassis to the door called on a 1995 jeep gc. This wire harness includes the speaker wires, power window wires, and power lock wires. I have checked everywhere and cannot see what this harness is called.

Its called a wire harness. I beleive it is the main dash wire harness, but you wont get anywhere with that if you are trying to get one from a parts house or dealer, You just have to hit and miss at the salvage yard or digging around yourself and get lucky. But if you can trace the wires to a block connector or firewall connector you will be in luck and just tell them the location of the block where the harness is connected and you should be there, just remember all your options in you truck will have to match the options in the donor truck or the harness wont work for you

Q:I just got an automatic car starter with keyless entry for my Kia Sorento this Christmas. My step-Dad is going to put it in for me but he said I need to get a wiring harness for it so that it's easier to install. I can't seem to find a harness for my Kia! Does anyone know where I can buy one??

Hate to be the bearer of bad news , but there is no such thing as a vehicle specific wiring harness on a universal remote starter. The wiring that came with the unit should be more than adequate to hook up the unit. Now you may need additional wiring to wire in your relay or relays if you are to use the trunk feature. But other than that its a straight forward hook up. SORENTO 2003 -2005 12 VOLT CONSTANT GREEN (+) and BLUE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS STARTER RED (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS IGNITION 1 YELLOW (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 1 ORANGE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS ACCESSORY/HEATER BLOWER 2 WHITE (+) IGNITION SWITCH HARNESS PARKING LIGHTS ( - ) WHITE (-) @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH PARKING LIGHTS ( + ) RED/BLACK (+) @ DIMMER SWITCH POWER LOCK BLUE (TYPE B) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, at DOOR HARNESS POWER UNLOCK WHITE (TYPE B) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, at DOOR HARNESS DOOR TRIGGER RED/BLACK (-) DRIVER KICK PANEL HIGH IN BLUE PLUG TRUNK RELEASE RED/ORANGE ( - ) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL, harness to rear of vehicle TACH RED (-) @ COIL PACK BRAKE WHITE ( + ) @ SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL FACTORY ALARM DISARM ORANGE (-) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL Keep in mind this application has 2 accessory wires, therefore you'll need to power up 2nd acc. via a spdt 30 amp relay. Access wire to post 85 ground post 86 12 volt power 10 post 30 the wire off post 87 goes to your second accessory wire. You will also need to hook up your factory alarm disarm wire. Your installation is only as good as your electrical connections , So make sure all wires are soldered. They do not make a T- Harness for your vehicle.

Q:Basically over about a four month period the radio/cd player in my truck was going on and off. It would work sometimes randomly, but now it is completely dead. I changed all the fuses and that isn't where the issue is. I have the original radio and I don't really want to replace it. I feel like if the fault were in the radio itself, it would have simply gone dead and not worked. I am just wondering if this has happened to anyone else, or if anyone has any advice about what the cause could be? The truck itself is 17 years old, so it's a possibility that over time a wire came loose, or even for the radio to die. It came with a 5 cd changer that is in the cab, and I noticed at the very beginning before it starting cutting on and off that it would say that it couldn't read cd's. That was probably a few days prior, and then when the radio did actually work, the same problem persisted. What do you think the problem is?

I use a Multi-Tester (Volt-OHM-AMP) meter. I check each wire--for continuity. I also decide on the ground.(common ground).or a direct ground at the 12-volt battery./ I like to use a direct wire--from the 12-volt battery./with a in-line fuse/ I most times use the cigaretter/plug-in as my ground point./ Or I even run a ground wire back to the 12-volt battery./ The radio may have been running hot.and you placed wires at a terrible location./ (re-check the installation) If this is a automobile application--the 5 disk CD Player--will have Shock/detection/protection. Or.you may only be able to use store bought--CD's. NOT--ones you made on your computer. Try that. See if store bought CD's work better./ Most radio applications have fuses--that are very difficult to inspect--without a magnifying glass. I use 10-AMP for such things./

Q:I already have an aftermarket (Pioneer) car stereo in my Jeep with a vehicle-specific wiring harness. I am getting a new car stereo (Alpine) and need to know if I need to get another wiring harness with the new Alpine stereo, or can I just use my existing one?Thanks all in advance!

you sure do, the Alpine stereo have different wiring harness than pioneer. that's for sure.

Q:HiI'm an engineering student who works for a benchmarking company. I was wondering if anyone had any insight or ideas into finding out how much copper is in the wiring harness. I have some clients interested in obtaining this information but i was wondering if there was a way of determining the copper weight without having to strip all insulating material and putting it on a scale. Any insight would be helpful.Thanks

If you know the lengths of the wire and the gauge, you can calculate it. It won't be fun, but it will work.