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flexible ducts XFVBD  insulation mylar  insulation mylar

flexible ducts XFVBD insulation mylar insulation mylar

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Shanghai
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Min Order Qty:
123 g/m
Supply Capability:
123 g/m/month

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Product Material

 

10m length aluminum insulation ventilation duct with low priceis made of aluminum foil +fiberglass+aluminum foi+steel wire

 

 

 

Product Feature

 

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following feature:

 

1.Size.    (Customer's color requirement can be matched)
2.Color.   (Customer's color can be fulfilled )
3.Non-toxic .Harmless to people even long time exposure
4.Excellent light transmission.  transparent rate above 92%
5.Excellent weather resistance.  performance cant be change easily by Sunlight and Rain
6.Excellent Design.Personalized design and Human design with mordent concept

 


Product Advantages

8 inch insulated flexible aluminum air duct heating and cooling systems following advantages:

 

1.Material .environmentally friendly Acrylic
2.High Ruggedness.hard to attrit ,break and damage
3.Good anti-aging Properties .Long Using life Above 5 years
4.Strong Impact resistance .16 times than that of ordinary glass
5.Logo imprinting .Customer's Logo can be imprinted personally
6.OEM.ODM service. Satisfied related service can be offered in short time
7.Competitive price.Price at various level  can cater your various requirement
8.Reasonable Delivery time.Fast to arrive at your office By air or Sea  
9.Sample .Sample available for your proof and final decision
10.Trial Order are hotly welcome and allowed

 

Q:The distance between knee wall and attic ceiling is about 6 foot. Could I push a perforated pipe between the rafters?
That is an option. And there aren't many options.Not much is going to slide easily behind the insulation. I'm thinking --------------------. You are undoubtedly going to snag on roof nails coming through the decking. I don't know if they would hold up but the cardboard tubes wrapping paper comes on might work if you tape 2 together. and flatten and tape the end you will be pushing in first. cut slots with utility knife. I think your idea would work if you can afford the pipe. That's a tough one. When we convert attics we line those cavities with a styrofoam insulation chute end to end until we reach open ventilation-you probably know that by now. Give it a try.
Q:Does snow on the roof help or hurt my heating bill?
I mostly shows that your home is well insulated and not loosing heat through the ceiling to melt it. Think of an Igloo made of packed snow. It can be kept at a temperature just below freezing so that it will not melt and still keep those inside from the 30-60 below outside.
Q:i have roof insulation but if i add more to the required depth the bottom layer will get compressed. Will it still insulate?
Yes. But, remember this; it is the trapped air that causes the insulation to work properly. If you squeeze the air out of it, it is less effecient- will not conserve energy as well. I would not compress it at all.
Q:the best way to thermal insulate and water proofing of rcc slabs economical, may be some poly urethane material or whatever but should be very effective and light weight.
use a polythene sheet . i dont know about where u live but where i live we get very long and broad size thick polythene sheets to make shelter or the protect from rain . even poor ppl use it to make slums . they attach a sheet in bamboo and they bury half of that bamboo stick inside the ground and by arranging 4 of them like this in a square area they make a bamboo frame. then as i said they attach sheet and make temporary home but they live there for years.
Q:I know you're not supposed to directly insulate the roof due to the roof getting super heated in the summer, but my walk-in (actually, more like "crawl in") attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is there anything I can do to improve efficiency? I can't help but think I'm wasting a lot of energy just to keep my roof lasting a little longer.
The reason you do not put insulation directly on the underside of your roof is all about moisture and mold. You need an air gap between the roof and the insulation and allow it to breath. This prevents moisture from condensation that can cause big problems. You could install a radiant barrier that reflects the heat. Do a google search to learn more about it. You could install and attic fan to suck the hot air out in the summer. Most important is to make sure the insulation on the attic floor is the proper thickness.
Q:if you had snow and all the snow is off your roof and the house nex store has snow do we need insulation?
remember the front of your house is the back of your neighbors house across the street when looking at the roof
Q:My new room is an addition to a mobile home, and has a single-layer metal roof. I have 3 "main" concerns. What are the cheapest and/or most effective ways of eliminating them?1. No heat insulation- cold air sinks from the roof to my room, and my warm air rises to the roof and cools.2. Condensation forms on the inside and drips occasionally. My computer, bike, and downhill boards are in here!3. It seems like bugs could easily get into my room, but that's just a suspicion.
You really need a correct "building paper" under the iron. It is aluminum with a tar sandwiched between...You can also use plastic sheeting as a vapor barrier..
Q:... building code max. (R-50)???
you need ventilation. the insulation is to keep heat i the living area of your home, your attic should be as cold as outside. make sure you have good soffit vents(intake) and good ridge or roof vents(exhaust). if you already have proper ventilation holes then make sure nothing is blocking them. many times folks push the insulation too far to the ends, blocking the soffit vents. you're loosing heat from your home into the attic which melts the roof snow and the outside temp then quickly turns this into ice. proper insulation as well as ventilation work hand in hand to combat this.
Q:Why would you not insulate between the rafters in an attic? I see a lot of houses with no insulation on the inside of the roof.
A typical composite shingle would get too hot if you insulated the roof directly underneath it, decreasing life of shingle. You want good air flow in attic, insulate above the ceilings only.
Q:Best roofing insulation to keep warm in the winter?
You mean the insulation that you put in your attic or crawlspace? That fiberglass stuff works pretty good- just roll it on out- the thicker it is the higher the R factor. Just remember to not reduce the air circulation especially around eaves, or you'll get condensation.

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