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FAQ

We have a house (built in 1918) that has large ceiling beams in both the living and dining room. This wood trim goes along the edge of the wall and then across the ceiling (in a grid in the dinning room). Unfortunately the previous owners painted them a dark brown (to look like a dark stain I imagine) but it is bad. All the wood work is a dark mahogany like stain and although there are many windows, it is very dark. We are repainting everything! Where can I find pictures of different color combinations for ceilings with painted beams? I really need help visualizing how it will look in a few different ways to decide.Thank you for the help!

Check okorder Go to the ColorSmart section. I used the Behr Color Tool. Select a color family. Choose your color. Click on Select this color. Click on Preview. Click on Use a Sample Photo. Click on Bedroom. The third picture actually has ceiling beams in it. You can pick different colors for the ceiling, the beams, and the walls. Hope this helps.

Specification for lightweight steel keel and gypsum board

Do the wall of the commonly used light steel keel specifications, generally 75mm, 100mm of the two, this specification is to determine the wall thickness of the wall

I am trying to hang a 30 LBS item from a drop ceiling, with no luck. I would like to use 2-3 eyebolts to distribute the weight, but everytime I think I figured it out, it pulls right through. The ceiling can't be very thick at all. Can this be done?

30 lbs is quite a bit of weight. You will need to screw into a joist. Ay type of toggle bolt just through the drywall will not hold it.

I feel the self-tapping screws do not drill into the light steel keel Hand drill use method is not directly to the back of the tapping screw inserted into the drill drill and then fixed on the light steel keel ah?

Gypsum board with the screw is not an ordinary self-tapping screws, its name is "dry wall nail", its structure and material and ordinary tapping screws are different, hardness, small diameter, long teeth, these features are easy It is easier to drill into hard objects. Although the light steel keel is steel, but the wall thickness is limited, the use of hand drill or wind can be easily approved by dry wall nails drill through it. On the dry wall nails to use a special batch of head, also known as the cross head, hand drill to use it to dry wall nails.

The question says it all, I need to know this because I need to hang something up that weighs about 100-120 pounds. I need to know which section of the grid of ceiling girders holds the most weight. The long sections between the intersections?The short sections between the intersections?Or the intersections themselves?If you dont remember what that looks like, think of your elementary school or work office. Yeah. those kinds of ceiling tiles, just the plain old styrofoam style stuff.I need an answer from a legitimate source, not a guestimation.

It depends on the installation. I would expect 100-120 pounds to be too much for almost all installations. 20-30 pounds is easily possible on almost all if supported over several feet of the rail and not just hung from one or two of the grid clamps sold for the purpose of putting up signs or displays. For example, the circular air conditioning outlets used in some stores that are connected by flexible ducts to the main ducts and the fluorescent light fixtures that lay in the openings weigh about 10 pounds. The variation is due to the location of the hanging wires for the grid and what the weight is doing. I would expect a hanging point directly under a vertical 16 ga. wire running up to the building structure/roof would probably be able to take 40-50 pounds if the wire were well twisted at both ends - but the wires are often just pushed through the hole and bent with a single hook. I am certain that 100 pounds applied in the middle of a rail between two support points is going to bend the rail in any common installation. To hold that much weight safely, I think you are going to have to run a wire through a slot or hole in the tile, up through the upper structure and tie into the building directly, especially if there is any chance of movement by wind, AC air flow, or people bumping the suspended item.

It is done before the floor tiles, or in the shop after the tiles to do it?

Light steel keel partition in the shop before, after all is possible, paving the brick can be done in the tiles above, to the keel with the glue and tiles can be a solid paste the normal construction.

I have sheetrock on the ceiling of one of my bedrooms. Above the bedroom is a bathroom. I would like to replace the sheetrock ceiling with tiles that are removable, that way I can easily perform maintenance as needed - e.g. if the tub starts leaking, etc. Are there such a thing as removable ceiling tiles? Or a way to use regular ceiling tiles and affix them in a removable manner? I know this can be done with drop ceilings, but I'd rather avoid the loss of headroom caused by installing a drop ceiling.

yes you can but I am going back into my last home tha was made in the 1850's, kidding the add on was made in the 1920's and you can buy ceiling tiles with the painted metal grid. we had it on our 1920's rental flat. I would suggest you, if you are in the USA go to a LOWE'S or HOME DEPOT and ask them as LOWES recently opened in my little mountain town and I see they sell them. I find them very attractive, but my question is...why install something if you have a fear of a leak. Thats all i ask and I know you know bettr than me on that answer. good luck!

Living room around the ceiling with light steel keel or wood keel?

The answer is very agree. It is recommended not to use wood keel, the most simple, the national standard keel 10 years can guarantee no deformation (construction to do), wood keel for a few years, that wood word to describe: miserable!