Mill Finish Aluminum Coil 1050 H24 1100 H14

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Min Order Qty:
5 m.t.
Supply Capability:
10000 m.t./month

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Item specifice:

Grade: 1000 Series,3000 Series,5000 Series Surface Treatment: Mill Finish Shape: Flat,Round
Temper: O-H112 Application: Door & Window,Decorations

Product Description:

1.    Specification of Mill Finish Aluminum Coil 1050 H24 1100 H14



Popular Thickness




inner diameter

505mm 508mm 605mm 






mill finish


Export standard  wooden pallets

Payment Terms

100% irrevocable L/C at sight or 30% T/T in   advance as deposit,70% balance against the B/L copy

Minimum Order Quantity


Delivery time

15-25 days after receiving L/C or deposit


Specific requirement of alloy grade,   temper or specification can be discussed at

your request

2.    Application of Mill Finish Aluminum Coil 1050 H24 1100 H14

(1).Interior: wall cladding, ceilings, bathrooms, kitchens and balconies, shutters, doors...

(2).Exterior: wall cladding, facades, roofing, canopies, tunnels,column covers , renovations...

(3).Advertisement: display platforms, signboards, fascia, shop fronts...


3.    Feature of Mill Finish Aluminum Coil 1050 H24 1100 H14

*Such coil is specially designed to replace aluminum ingot, due to the high export tax of aluminum ingot, the coil has better price than ingot.

*This type of coil can fit customer's remelting furnace just like ingot, no need to make any change to the production line that was previously used for ingot. The standard coil size and weight is very suitable for the feed gate of furnace.

*This type of coil causes less material wastage than ingot when remelted.

*Our coil is made directly from ore, no need to go though the ingot making process, quality is much better than other suppliers who use ingot scrap to make coil.

Be free from Oil Stain, Dent, Inclusion, Scratches, Stain, Oxide Dicoloration, Breaks, Corrosion, Roll Marks, Dirt Streaks and other defect which will interfere with use


4.    Certificate:

SGS and ROHS(if client request, paid by client), MTC(plant provided), Certificate of Origin(FORM A, FORM E, CO),  Bureau Veritas and SGS (if client request, paid by client), CIQS certificate


5.    Image of Mill Finish Aluminum Coil 1050 H24 1100 H14

Mill Finish Aluminum Coil 1050 H24 1100 H14

Mill Finish Aluminum Coil 1050 H24 1100 H14

6.    Package and shipping of Mill Finish Aluminum Coil 1050 H24 1100 H14

eye to wall

eye to the wall

with wood pallet  (wooded case also available)


7.    FAQ

1) What is the delivery time?

Dpends on actual order, around 20 to 35 days

2)What is the QC system:

We have QC staff of 20 persons and advanced equipment, each production is with MTC traced from Aluminum ingot lot.

3) What market do you mainly sell to?

Australia, America, Asia, Middle East, Western Europe, Africa etc

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Q:Can I bake cheesecake in aluminium baking trays?
Should be fine
Q:Can you get cuts from aluminum powder?
The aluminum powder found in an Etch-a-Sketch will not cut you, it's much too small. In fact it's so small you could only see it's edges under a high powered microscope. The cut was most likely caused by jagged glass/plastic when you broke the Etch-a-Sketch open. It's not unusual to cut yourself and not realize until someone else sees you're bleeding.
Q:Structure of Aluminium Chloride?
Aluminium chloride sublimes (turns straight from a solid to a gas) at about 180°C. If it simply contained ions it would have a very high melting and boiling point because of the strong attractions between the positive and negative ions. The implication is that it when it sublimes at this relatively low temperature, it must be covalent. The dots-and-crosses diagram shows only the outer electrons. Hope that help Check here for more information;
Q:iron or aluminum...?
Look up heat sinks and find one made of iron. You won't. They are always made of aluminum.
Q:aluminum for thermite?
In 35+ years of demonstrating the thermite reaction, I have used fine aluminium powder to quite visible small bits. The proportions don't seem too critical, but try and keep near the amounts represented by the balanced eqtn. The difficult bit is getting the wretched stuff to ignite. With some mixes several strands of magnesium ribbon as fuse still wouldn't get it to ignite. I found a pile of 'ignition powder' at the base of the Mg often helped. There was a good commercial one available in the UK but I often made one up, main ingredients barium peroxide and magnesium powder, about 50/50. Needless to say, ignite with this mix where you won't breathe any nasty fumes. To get a good result, if I didn't use a proper crucible, I shaped one of Al foil about the capacity of 2-3 eggcups. This was put on sand in a big coffee tin, then more sand added to fill round the sides. This would give a good amount of iron. I once made the mistake of rushing in too quickly to get out the red hot iron.... and completely melted the ends of a large pair of Nickel tongs!
Q:Domestic production of color coated aluminum coil manufacturers which good?
It is widely used in the field of architectural decoration, such as aluminum ceiling, aluminum plate and so on. There are many manufacturers of color coated aluminum rolls, big and small.
Q:Aluminum Frame M1911 question...?
Alloy is great for one thing. Making a gun lighter to carry around. If it was something I was going to shoot substantial amounts of ammo through, I would stick with a caliber that is a bit lower pressure-wise. No +P ever! You can expect about half the life a steel frame would give you. There are many 1911's in 38 Super with alloy frames. How many are shot out is another matter. Personally, I really wouldn't worry about it unless you are burning through more than say 100 rounds a month. Even at that, it should be 15 or 20 years before you would have to worry about it. If it's going to be a competition gun, ditch the alloy frame in favor of a steel one. The added weight will help minimize muzzle climb.
Q:Painting an aluminum canoe need advice on sanding, priming and paint type?
Pete is on the right track, but I think that rather than primer, what you need is to wash the aluminum with acid after you use a chemical stripper to get the paint off. The acid dissolves the layer of corrosion that all aluminum gets with exposure to air and also gives the fresh primer something to adhere to. You can lightly sand aluminum by hand or with a random orbit sander, but aluminum dust has been linked to alzheimer's disease so wear a good mask. But if your canoe has a lot of paint still on it or a lot of rivets and seams, then a stripper made for aluminum will save you a lot of time and effort. Go to a place that specializes in paints and finishes specific to the boating, recreational vehicle, or trucking industries as they deal with aluminum all the time and have the specialized products that you need in order to refinish and repaint it because it isn't like steel or wood and requires specific formulations. If you try to skip a step or buy the wrong stuff, your efforts will probably not succeed because working with aluminum is unlike any other material. Read and follow all directions and safety instructions carefully because the chemicals involved are strong and can give off toxic fumes. Because most things made from aluminum are subject to a wide variety of climates and rough handling, you need to buy products that are specially formulated for it and follow the steps and safety precautions exactly or all your hard work will probably be for naught.
Q:Rollerblade in line skates-Aluminum frames?
complicated matter. research on google. this can assist!
Q:Will anodized aluminum rust? Should I oil the exterior of my AR-15 to prevent rust?
Aluminium does not rust. The anodized finish protects the aluminium from oxidization. So no, oiling the finish is not necessary.

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