• Cheap Building Foil Scrim Foil Insulation System 1
  • Cheap Building Foil Scrim Foil Insulation System 2
  • Cheap Building Foil Scrim Foil Insulation System 3
Cheap Building Foil Scrim Foil Insulation

Cheap Building Foil Scrim Foil Insulation

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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1.Structure of Building Foil Scrim Insulation Description:

Building Foil Scrim Insulation is a light duty, Eco grade D/S foil Insulation. It is ideally used as sarking and insulation under roofs,in walls behind cladding or under timber floors , for residential and commercial building. Combining with glasswool or foam insulation, it is excellent as a vapor barrier for air-conditioning ducts, pipes and vessels

2.Main Features of the Building Foil Scrim Insulation:

No odor and toxicity,environmentally-friendly

Light,soft,dust free,fire resistant,easy to install

Heat reflection,heat insulation,sound insulation,anti-radation,anti-vibration,and shielding

Moisture barrier,sun-proof,water proof

Good sealing property,heatnpreservation,energy saving

3.Building Foil Scrim Insulation Images

 

4.Building Foil Scrim Insulation Specification


aterial Structure:  AL/3 way scrim/Paper AL

Paper Weight:60gsm ( Standard,   can be Customized)

Roll Size:1.2m*50m ,1.25*50m (can be customized)

PROPERTIES

TEST DATA

UNIT

Thickness

+-0.15

mm

Weight

+-110

gsm

Emissivity

0.03-0.04

COEF

Thermal conductivity

0.037

w/m0

Bursting Strength

90

N/25mm

Reflectivity

96-97

%

Water Vapour Transmission

1.15

Ng/N.S

Corrosion

doesn't generate


Tensile Strength(MD)

144.4

N/25mm

Tensile Strength(TD)

46.3

N/25mm


5.FAQ

①Are you a manufacturer or just a trader?

We are a professional manufacturer.

②How about the quality?

The quality is very good. We have large and advanced product line.welcome to visit our company.

③How about the delivery time?

We will delievry soon once we receive your deposit.


Q:Live in Houston, very hot and humid. Looking at adding radiant and additional insulation to roof in house. We have a lot of sun, and AC bills.
we live in the desert, and got our roof coated, and instantly noticed the difference, it is much more insulated, and provides protection against leak (which was the main reason we had it done)
Q:Our roof tile is installed on top of galvanized iron sheets. We do not have any toher form of insulation. The roof tile or tegula is quite thick.
You can never have too much insulation, esp. in a roof. Heat rises, and a well-insulated roof helps with energy savings.
Q:How do I adequately insulate my attic roof to make the space a bit more habitable in the winter? The floors to the living area below are already insulated and we have a gable mounted fan which is great in the summer. I am thinking of adding insulation to the roof with baffles underneath for air circulation through the soffit vents. Am I anywhere near an idea that may work?
What you could do is line inbetween the roof trusses with fibre wool and then fix heavy cardboard sheets over them to keep them in place. Alternatively you could engage the services of a specialist company who will come and strip off your tiles/slates whatever and spray an insulating foam on the inside thus sealing everything in place.
Q:I know you're not supposed to directly insulate the roof due to the roof getting super heated in the summer, but my walk-in (actually, more like "crawl in") attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is there anything I can do to improve efficiency? I can't help but think I'm wasting a lot of energy just to keep my roof lasting a little longer.
The reason you do not put insulation directly on the underside of your roof is all about moisture and mold. You need an air gap between the roof and the insulation and allow it to breath. This prevents moisture from condensation that can cause big problems. You could install a radiant barrier that reflects the heat. Do a google search to learn more about it. You could install and attic fan to suck the hot air out in the summer. Most important is to make sure the insulation on the attic floor is the proper thickness.
Q:I know when you inhale the insulation from the roof irritates the throat but what can you do to clear it from your throat after inhaling it?
it's not your throat you should be worried about. it's your lungs. wear a respirator....or at the very least, a dust mask. you only live once so make it last.
Q:I have read in some articles about roofing that it is recommended to use attic roof insulation in ones roofing. Is this true?
It's advisable to insulate the roof area attic to help keep the rooms below warm as heat escapes through the ceilings, but not so much if there is insulation in the attic! It's personal preference. Cheers
Q:House is a bi-level. Recently added storm windows to deck off dining room. Having a new rubber roof installed would like to know if we can insulate ceiling to make the room warmer. What product do you suggest we use. we are getting conflicting answers, some say you can insulate others say the ceiling needs to breath having a rubber roof install. Please advise.
Yes, you can. There is a little plastic piece that you will want to tack to the underside of the roof though before you install your insulation. It is a plastic air vent that keeps about an inch or so of space between the roof and the insulation so that air can move through. You need to do that so the roof can breathe as they say. If you don't allow it to breathe, the difference in temperature from outside to inside will cause the roof to sweat and will make your roof go bad a lot quicker.
Q:I do not have extra space on the roof. Roof also tapers to drains at one end of building.
the R values, i am not sure. that white stuff is NOT Styrofoam. it is a cheap imitation. Real Styrofoam is made by DuPont, is usually a light blue, with a plastic seal coat on both sides. that thin plastic seal coat doubles the R value. what really does the insulation, is trapped air. air is actually a poor conductor of heat. the foam is actually little bubbles of air. dead air that is, air that cannot circulate and move. it works similarly to the way a down vest or coat works, it fluffs up and holds the air pockets out within a confining structure, thus retaining heat. the rigid stuff will last much longer, i can tell you that much. the white foam stuff deteriorates quickly. buy cheap, get cheap, is the general rule. you may wind up only having to do it again in a few years.
Q:I am thinking about getting cavity wall and roof insulation at the moment.But since summer is approaching, I fear that getting the insulation will mean that the house will be very hot at night. (During day time the house will accumulate heat from the sun, and the heat cannot escape).I also fear that the ventilation will be bad and the air in the house will not be as fresh.Any advice please?
Insulation works to keep a home cooler in summer as well as warmer in winter. And the warm months generally mean better conditions for the installation because of less potential moisture, which sometimes forms in uninsulated homes in the freezing cold, being trapped in ceiling and wall cavities. To have your ceiling insulation function properly, attic ventilation is required. This is approx. 1 sq. ft./ clear ventilation to 300 sq. ft. of attic space. More is better than less. You will find your home cooler. Insulation on its own does not change ventilation. This is an air/vapor barrier situation which also should be considered when insulating.
Q:A roofer who wants to put a new roof on my mobile home says it will dry out. (We live in the rainiest part of the US)
If your insulation gets wet while the roof was removed, you will most likely have mold/mildew problems after the roof is replaced. While the roof is off, it's an excellent idea to inspect the insulation are replace as necessary. If your roofer isn't going to protect your insulation while it is exposed, find another roofer.

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