• aluminum foil XPE foam heat insulation material System 1
  • aluminum foil XPE foam heat insulation material System 2
  • aluminum foil XPE foam heat insulation material System 3
aluminum foil XPE foam heat insulation material

aluminum foil XPE foam heat insulation material

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Loading Port:
Shanghai
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
-
Supply Capability:
5000 m²/month

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aluminum foil XPE foam heat insulation material
1.Structure:AL/green  XPE foam/AL
2,Normal roll size:1.5*22.25M
3,:AWTA ,SGS, ISO9000

aluminum foil XPE foam heat insulation material  :

  • Heat laminated, foam core providing an exceptional barrier against conductive heat, humidity, water and vapour penetration

  • Two outer layers of 99%+ pure aluminium (with very strong reinforced weave/scrim)

  • Reflecting up to 97% of radiant heat

  • Excellent fire properties

  • Excellent acoustic properties

  • Environmentally/Eco friendly and fibre-free

  • Anti-slip properties make it safer for installers

  • Compliance with the latest insulation standards

30m2 roll (1350mm x 22.25M) PLUS Over-lap (150mm x 22.25m)




Q:I've found lots of building forums and general "building advice" columns that go over very high-level pros/cons to choosing roofing material and insulation options, but I want a site where I can see hard costs of ordering each of the materials so I don't have to call up a ton of contractors or dealers. Does such a comparison site exist? Everyone offers quotes, but that takes too much time to apply for quotes to every dealer.I'm specifically interested in knowing what green options I can afford (cotton batting vs. formaldehyde-free fiberglass, etc.).
It's in euro's but you can convert or get the idea. Also, you have to click on the graphs to get a more clearer image.
Q:Have a patio with metal roof, gets very hot during summer. Will Great Stuff insulate and stick to hot roof during summer? Thanks
Probably could, but it would look like crap. Painting the roof white would do a better job of keeping the metal cooler. I'd install a ceiling fan in the center of the roof instead to force the hot air out.
Q:Re-roof + gutters + insulationHi. My name is Sean and I live in Adelaide. I want to get rid of my asbestos roof and replace it with a Colorbond roof and new gutters and also R3 ceiling insulation. I've had 1 quote so far for $17,000 total costs, and 1 quote for roof removal only which was $3,300. Does anyone know if I can get a cheaper quote but still get a good job done please?Roof area: 160m2 approx.Gutters: 25 linear metres approx.Capping: 52 linear metres approx.Cheers.
I am a roof plumber in melbourne I think this is a reasonable price. Materials will cost approx 8000-10000 grand 3300 for asbestos removal and the rest for labour. The best advice is plenty of quotes and keep them to their quotes. If you can get a roll of metal direct from bluescope you can get a company like apex roofing to roll it for you but it is alot of mucking around to save a little bit
Q:Sorry, I asked this in the maintenance and repair section, but no luck.Which is better to have in a 2-story home? My last 2-story home was always hotter upstairs than down. (Physics...heat rises)
the best is more attic isolation so that the heat don't come directly to second floor.
Q:Does snow on the roof help or hurt my heating bill?
It shouldn't matter. Here's why: If your attic is already well insulated and ventilated, there is insulation sitting on top of your drywall or plaster ceiling. Above that insulation is moving cold air. That air keeps your roof from rotting. The insulation creates a barrier between your living space and the moving air in the attic. You can differentiate homes with good insualtion from those without it--well insulated homes will have snow on their rooftops for a longer time. Additionally, well insulated homes are less likely to develop ice dams. So, I don't believe the snow on your roof should make any difference at all in your energy bill.
Q:If I insulate my roof, should I put in those plastic vents that go between the studs for air flow? I would like to use it for a work shop and probibly have some kind of heat source. i live in Northern Alberta.....
You will normally install both insulation and a vapor barrier, like a house, these go above the ceiling, but NOT the underside of the roof. Yes you should install vents, you need the air movement.
Q:this room has an aluminum roof and hardwood siding. All the heat hit the aluminum roof
With Reynolds wrap.
Q:I know you're not supposed to directly insulate the roof due to the roof getting super heated in the summer, but my walk-in (actually, more like "crawl in") attic is very hot in the summer and very cold in the winter. Is there anything I can do to improve efficiency? I can't help but think I'm wasting a lot of energy just to keep my roof lasting a little longer.
You can avoid the condensation problem by simply leaving a minimum 2'' gap between the roof and the insulation. You need to fix battens on to the rafters ( at least 2'' from the tiles ) and then fix blanket or rigid insulation tight between them. The battens will maintain the air space. You then need to fix a vapour barrier over the whole thing and finish with plasterboard. No small job to do it properly ! ps you need to check the condition of the roof before you start and fix any loose tiles etc Alternatively, turn the heating up and wear a thicker sweater.
Q:does insulation, with a high R value, in the attic prolong the life of the shingles on the roof.
no. attic ventilation can do this
Q:I do not have extra space on the roof. Roof also tapers to drains at one end of building.
the R values, i am not sure. that white stuff is NOT Styrofoam. it is a cheap imitation. Real Styrofoam is made by DuPont, is usually a light blue, with a plastic seal coat on both sides. that thin plastic seal coat doubles the R value. what really does the insulation, is trapped air. air is actually a poor conductor of heat. the foam is actually little bubbles of air. dead air that is, air that cannot circulate and move. it works similarly to the way a down vest or coat works, it fluffs up and holds the air pockets out within a confining structure, thus retaining heat. the rigid stuff will last much longer, i can tell you that much. the white foam stuff deteriorates quickly. buy cheap, get cheap, is the general rule. you may wind up only having to do it again in a few years.

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