Aluminum Foil Coated Bubble Insulation Type 6

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Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
10000 m²
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Description:

Bubble Insulation Benefits:

  • Reflects 96% of radiant heat

  • Non-toxic / Non-carcinogenic

  • Does not require protective clothing or respirators to install

  • Durable and lightweight

  • Does not compress, collapse or disintegrate

  • Vapor and radon retarder

  • Easy to cut and install

  • Permanent and maintenance-free

  • Does not provide a growth medium or nutritive value for fungus, insects, or rodents

  • Does not support the growth of mold or mildew

  • Not affected by moisture or humidity

  • Lowers heating and cooling costs year round

Bubble Foil Application:

 

  • Metal & Steel Buildings

  • Homes

  • Roof Underlayments

  • Cathedral Ceilings

  • Crawl Spaces

  • Hot Water Heaters

  • Basement Walls

  • Floors

  • Garage Doors

  • Concrete slabs

  • Driveway snow melts

  • Pole barns

  • Post frame buildings

  • Poultry barns

  • Animal kennels

  • Temperature sensitive storage areas

Air Bubble Foil Insulation Tech Data:

 

Material Structure:     AL/Bubble/AL

Bubble Size:D10mm*H 4mm(10*2.5/10*4/10*6/20*7/25*10)choose the bubble size

Bubble Weight:0.13kg/m2 ( can be customized )

Roll Width:1.2m (lenth can be customized)

PROPERTIES

TEST DATA

UNIT

Thickness

3.5-4

mm

Weight

250

g/m2

Emissivity

0.03-0.04

COEF

Thermal conductivity

0.034

w/m0

Apparent Density

85

kg/m3

Reflectivity

95-96

%

Water Vapour Transmission

0.013

g/m2kpa

Corrosion

doesn't generate

Tensile Strength(MD)

16.98

Mpa

Tensile Strength(TD)

16.5

Mpa

 

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Q:Advice on roof insulation please?
like they said ventilation is the answer... you allready have a radiant barrier ( metal roof ), now get the heat out. a rigge vent would be best with plent of open soffit all the way around the perimeter. if you're in a dry climate, a humidifier will work as well as an a/c, but much cheaper! give measurments in feet & inches... what do you thing, some one from france is going to help you?
Q:No ventilation between insulation and roof between knee wall & floor of attic. How can I provide ventilation?
That is an option. And there aren't many options.Not much is going to slide easily behind the insulation. I'm thinking --------------------. You are undoubtedly going to snag on roof nails coming through the decking. I don't know if they would hold up but the cardboard tubes wrapping paper comes on might work if you tape 2 together. and flatten and tape the end you will be pushing in first. cut slots with utility knife. I think your idea would work if you can afford the pipe. That's a tough one. When we convert attics we line those cavities with a styrofoam insulation chute end to end until we reach open ventilation-you probably know that by now. Give it a try.
Q:Attic Roof Insulation?
Such an interesting question when you sit down to answer it. First off, if there are any vents to the exterior, its not likely that you will want any additional heat to enter the space, as it will flow out of the vents to the outside and cost far more money than heat that is lost by thermal transfer, through the doors, windows and insulated walls and ceilings. So, any increase in the source of heat would mean closing the system to outside air vents like the fan and the soffit vents. If you want to heat the space, you'll need to insulate the roof by adding fiberglass batting to the space between the rafters and then drywall or panel depending on local building code and your preferences. Then you'll need an avenue for heat to reach the attic which can be as simple as cutting a couple of floor grates through to the heated space below, but you'll want cold air return ducting to send the cold air that is displaced by the heated air back down to the furnace. Then you'll need to seal the gable fan and insulate, perhaps with a box you can remove in the spring and replace in the fall. Now that the attic is integrated in the HVAC system, you no longer need the soffit vents. If you don't have a forced air system, there is less concern about the cold air return, as your heat source would be in the room or you can just use floor grates on opposite ends of the room for both the warm air and cold air exchange. Place one near the heat source below and one well away from it.
Q:Can you insulate an attic in a house with a metal roof? (sweating)?
Hi, GA. On my second coffee here, so bear with me if a little fuzzy. Trying to envision what you're looking at, first thing I hear is 2x4 roof framing, not say the 2x6 or 2x8 rafters I would expect. A 2x4 structure and metal roof is a light build more suitable for a shed or outbuilding than a home. Wouldn't tolerate much additional weight, like from plywood. Next thing, which I don't hear, is whether there's moisture on the attic's "floor", where you're standing. I'm thinking the moisture you're noting is above you, on the undersurface of the roofing, and on the rafters. Finally, while some condensation on the underside makes sense, it would also seem quite possible that there are a number of small leaks through the roof. My goals would be to first ensure there are no leaks through the roof surface, then to ensure the attic indeed has enough venting, then to both reduce air from the lower living level bleeding through up to the attic space (also good to reduce convective heat loss), then to insulate the attic floor to reduce radiant heat loss from below and warming of the attic air, pretty much in that order. The prize is a leak-free roof over a cold attic space.
Q:We are putting a tin roof cap. Do we put some sort of insulation/stripping under the tin roof cap?
Those foam strips they sell you to go under the ridge caps will eventually dry out, blow out, and be hanging all over the place. Caulking won't fill a 5/8's gap to keep the wind/rain out, and tar has no place whatsoever on a metal roof, you'll get it all over everything, and either one will look like ****. The best ridge cap has to be custom made and cut to fit. I use a 12" wide X 10' strip, bent in half to pitch, and then turn down 90 degrees on the edges, whatever the rib height is, usually 5/8". Hold the ridge cap in place on the ridge and mark where the ribs are, then notch out for the ribs so that the cap sits flush over the ribs and down on the flats, punch holes and screw down thru the tops of the ribs. It's a little time consuming but it makes for a good looking finished product that won't wear out.
Q:the roof of my mouth hurts bad.i worked all day with sawdust and insulation yesterday.is this the problem.?
No it may not be like any type of respiratory disease ,normally this type of soe type of allergy ,if you have any doubt you can consult a doctor but are you suffering from asthma before or any person of your family belongs to this category.
Q:we are looking at a house that had mold, all the drywall, insulation, carpet, flooring,roof were replaced help?
If everything has been replace, and fixed. I wouldn't worry. If the mold has been properly sealed and taking care of. You should be fine. But If you have any doubts trust your instance.
Q:Can I install rigid insulation between roof decking and shingles on a sloped roof?
Lot of info missing to give you a good answer. Thickness of insulation. Slope of roof. But what it really comes down to is the building code in your area, contact local building inspector,
Q:Good uses for leftover foam roof insulation from a flat roof?
I'm a bit confused here Andy. If the flat roof needs replacing, when it is removed what is revealed is going to be exactly what you would see if you removed the ceilings. So why consider removing the ceilings if they are ok? When the flat roof is replaced put the insulation in then. Whilst rockwool would have been the material to use there is now roofing insulation board that is much more efficient, 50mm board gives equivalent insulation of something like 150mm rockwool. If the flatroof isn't fitted with suitable vents to keep it ventilated fit them when the roof is done too. The only reason I can see for replacing the ceiling plasterboard is if it hasn't got a vapor barrier ie foil backed board.
Q:Is it good to get cavity wall / roof insulation in the summer?
Insulation works to keep a home cooler in summer as well as warmer in winter. And the warm months generally mean better conditions for the installation because of less potential moisture, which sometimes forms in uninsulated homes in the freezing cold, being trapped in ceiling and wall cavities. To have your ceiling insulation function properly, attic ventilation is required. This is approx. 1 sq. ft./ clear ventilation to 300 sq. ft. of attic space. More is better than less. You will find your home cooler. Insulation on its own does not change ventilation. This is an air/vapor barrier situation which also should be considered when insulating.

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