• XBD-HY series Constant-pressure Fire-fighting Pump System 1
XBD-HY series Constant-pressure Fire-fighting Pump

XBD-HY series Constant-pressure Fire-fighting Pump

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1. Summary

XBD-(HY) series constant-pressure fire-fighting pump comes as a new product developed in this Co. upon the market
de-mand and the performance and technical condition of it con-forms the requirements in the latest issued standard GB6245 Fire-fighting Pumps .

2. Operating Condition

Medium temperature:  up to 80℃
Capacity range:             10 ~ 70 L/s
Pressure range:            0.2Mpa ~ 2.2Mpa

3. Application

Suitable for water supply for the fixed fire-fighting system (the fire extinguishing system with fire hydrants, spraying fire-
extinguishing system and smog-spraying with water fire-extinguishing system) in both industrial and civil buildings, especially suitable for the quartered fire-fighting water supply system of high buildings, also for the fire-fighting and living (production) mutually used water supply system and those in construction, municipal works, industry and mine, boiler etc. various places.

Q:first off i should say it is below freezing here....with that said, the water pump pulley is not turnning so.. the fan belt busted which leads me to believe the water pump is frozen...... right?i am currently traveling and have little money to spend on a new water pumpis there any way that anyone may know to dethaw a frozen water pump without damaging it?... i should say, the motor is running great, no cracks or leaks from the cold.
if you dont have antifreeze,youre screwed.if you do,you probably need a new waterpump.
Q:I have had this water pump changed 2 times in 5 years is this normal for this car? It has a v6 motor.
1. Remove any radiator shroud, or any cowl obstructing the fan, radiator, and water pump. 2. using a pair of large pliers, take off the clamp on the lower radiator hose at the water pump and drain the coolant into a container. Make sure the motor is COLD, room temp, when you do this. 3. Remove the other hose. 4. Remove the cooling fan using an air hammer or a large adjustable wrench. This part is tricky, unless your fan is bolted on with 10 mm bolts, then you lucked out. 5. For step 4, leave the belt on, it will make it easier to remove the fan. 6. If you have a V-8 LT-1, then you have 4 13 mm bolts. Be careful not to damage your distributor which sits under the pump (nice design GM) 7. Using a razor blade, remove any gasket on the inlet and outlet on the block. 8. Apply a thin layer of gasket sealer on the gaskets for the new pump. 9. Install the pump, and its bolts. Use locktite if you have some on the bolts, medium strength. Tighten the bolts to about 90 in/lbs 10. install the pully, and fan. (again, tricky) 11. Install the belt. 12. put lower radiator hose back on (leave off upper) 13. pour 1/2 a bottle of Dex-cool coolant in the radiator 14. fill bottle up with 1/2 water, 1/2 coolant, and pour it into the reservoir. 15. If necessary, get new bottle of coolant, and pour it into the UPPER RADIATOR HOSE, this will help bleed air out of the system. 16. keep filling upper hose, and radiator until it stops bubbling down and basically overflows. 17. install upper hose. 18. make sure the radiator is full and system has no air pockets. Check to see if the upper radiator hose inlet has a bleeder valve. If it does, use a pair of pliers and open it, and watch coolant in radiator drop, then fillit up again. The V-6 has one, not sure about V-8. 19. put radiator cap on, and resevoir cap. 20. run motor, check for any leaks. 21. drive, if vehicle is overheating and there are no leaks, there is still air in the system. Wait till it cools down and bleed air again.
Q:I think the water pump is going out in my truck can I still drive it short distance if I put water in it first?
If the temperature gauge is working and the water isnt leaking and its full just drive it no more than 10 minutes at a time or until the temperature gauge reads hot then let it cool off and repeat. DO NOT POUR COLD WATER IN A HOT MOTOR, you will crack the heads!
Q:Water pump motor often caused by water can not run, how can solve?
I don't know what the pump is upstairsThe ordinary centrifugal pump inlet outdoor installation, in order to prevent the motor fan end can be installed in the end of 0.5 with the maple leaf canopy, the sheet can be, the supporting leg can be installed in the wind leaf cover screws; if your motor output is water, and the output end of the motor bearing can be installed with the same motor shaft the outer diameter of the rubber water retaining ring (the market for rubber seal should be easy to buy)Submersible pump (pump) often water, you should consider replacing the good points of the mechanical seal, such as to choose oil resistant, acid and alkali resistant, selected according to the transmission medium and the pump itself, if you can confirm the correct, check whether the pump shaft bending, made into concentric mechanical seal damage. And check whether the casting on the motor side is defective or not;Choose a higher level of protection of sewage pump, preferably in the pump leakage probe, float switch, overload, lack of protection, generally will not burn the motor
Q:Our water pump was really warm/hot to the touch, our hot water was more warm than hot, and wouldnt heat up enough to get hot, and it wouldn't turn off. (like when it starts up when you turn on the water,it just kept going,and wouldn't stop) so, because it was hot, and going constantly, we didn't want it to explode, or burn out, so we turned it off, and now I'm hoping that when we turn it back on after it cools, that it'll go back to turning on/off intermittently, instead of constantly. So, after it cools down, will it go back to normal, instead of just constantly going??!?
I assume you have a water well pump. The experience I have had, is it will come back on once the thermal safety switch cools down. However, I think you still have work here to do because each time this happens, you are shortening the life of your pump. First you need to determine why it ran hot to begin with. Could be lots of reasons, but just to name a few. -Is your water tank in good shape, with the correct air pressure? -Is the tank waterlogged, too old or leaking? -Any leaks in the service in or to the house? -Is your contact switch working properly, clean contacts, good wire, good connections, breaker etc.? -Is there water running somewhere your not aware of? -Last but not least, the check valve and foot valve leading to the well could also be defective. Just my opinion, I hope this helps to get you thinking. Good luck; flip;
Q:i have recently taken of my whole water pump cover to drain the fluid, not knowing that there was a drain screw to do it.So when i took it off, i broke the seal, and now the coolant constantly drips 24/7 until i have none left, nearly blew my head gasket the other day.I was going to get a new part, but then a friend told me about locktite to seal it shut so that it does not leak????Is this the super glue stuff orrrrr? :(Please help me and links would be good so i know what to getThanks you very much!
DPO, You will need the water pump gasket, water pump gasket sealant and the manual. DO NOT USE SUPER GLUE. Remove the cover [after draining the coolant this time] and clean everything up nice and dry. Resist the urge to scrape and gouge the parts with a screw driver to remove the old gasket material. you can use a scotchbrite pad to clean it all up. [no, steel wool cannot be used] Use a THIN film of sealant on each side of the gasket [NO, more is not better] and bolt it back together gently or you risk cracking the pump cover. Don't forget to refill with coolant and recheck after it has warmed up and cooled again.Get the manual before you do any more damage. You didn't give the year or exact model 85 so the link below is just for example.
Q:I did change water pump before but not on wv beetle?
If okorder , I have serious doubts about your doing a timing belt which has to come off and go back on to do the water pump. I also can't picture a water pump going bad in under 15 years or 150,000 miles. Spendy job, so please be sure before disassembling. OH and if you mess up on the timing belt you can bend the valves and cost yourself around 1,500 US dollars. ASE Cert Auto Tech, 92 GTI 16V 2.0L
Q:Okay, I'm setting up an NFT hydroponic garden and am now looking for the water pump. I would like some suggestions for one that will give a steady stream at a good rate for the plants. But, it must have a minimum lift of 5ft to reach the first level.I would prefer one with a flow rate adjustment but if you could at least make a suggestion to the GPH it should pump for the right flow after a 5 ft climb I could search more in that range for one I like.Thank you!
I think you may want to look at the small pond pumps and just about any nursery or home supply store or landscaping store. they may have the specs on hand, or see if they can demo one for you. some places have a display pond set up already. You also might try a small swimming pool pump and put a voltage regulator in the line and adjust the pump speed that way. maybe rig a sewing machine pedal in the line and use a C clamp for an adjuster. I love rigging thing. It may not work with a gfi plug.
Q:I would like to change the water pump myself but do not have a repair manual.
Im guessing you have the 3.4 liter engine. You will need to remove the pulley bolts first 10mm, then pull off the pulley and the belt. there should be a few 10mm bolts holding the water pump on, remove them and scrape off the old gasket with a scraper and then clean the rest up with some fine grit sandpaper. Don't scrub one area for too long because the surface is soft aluminum. you will need to spray some brake clean on a rag and clean up the surface so there is no coolant or dirt on it. Now put the new gasket on the new pump and put a thin layer of silicone on the side of the gasket that is going to mate with the engine block. Do not put silicone on both sides of the gasket. Make sure to note wich way you took the old pump out because it only goes in one way and torque down the bolts so they are snug, don't overtorque or you will strip the aluminum. Now you will need a half inch rachet to pull back the belt tensioner to be able to put the belt back on. There should be a picture of how the belt is routed somewhere under the hood. Don't forget to buy Dexcool (Red Antifreeze) Make sure you don't mix it with the green antifreeze. Good Luck
Q:How to remotely control submersible pumps?
Now the remote control of submersible pumps and pumps is very mature, and the cost is relatively low. We use the Ji'nan Huichi electronic pump remote controller controlled step-down start control cabinet, convenient Clockwork SMS can control the pump start and stop, and return to the working condition of the water pump, water pump overload or lack of power can also feedback fault message to the responsible person

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