• WQ series Designed Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pump System 1
  • WQ series Designed Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pump System 2
  • WQ series Designed Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pump System 3
WQ series Designed Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pump

WQ series Designed Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pump

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Shanghai
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TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1 unit
Supply Capability:
200 unit/month

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1. Product Introduction

WQ series submersible sewage pump is mainly used for municipal work, industrial building, hotels, hospitals, civil air defense, mines, etc. It can be widely used in transfer waste water, rainwater and living water etc. which contains solid grains and various long fibers CNBM WQ series sewage submersible pump have many advantages, such as, hi-efficiency, circumvolution proof, blockage free, auto-coupling, hi-reliability and auto-control, etc.

 

2. Technical Performance

Discharge diameter: 50~600 mm

Capacity: 10~8000m³/h

Head: 5~60m

Power: 1.5~315kw

Diameter of pass solids: 20~145mm

 

3. Operation Condition

1). Rated Voltage: 380V(660V), Frequency: 50Hz, 3-phase AC.

2). Temperature of medium under 40ºC.

3). PH value: 4~10.

4). Volume ratio of solid in medium below 2%.

5). Density of medium should be lower than 12000kg/m³.

 

4. Structure Characteristic

WQ series submersible sewage pump is equipped with status indicator and protection device to ensure for pump safe and reliable operating.

1). The unique cable airproof is adopted, avoid leakage of cable.

2).  Heat protector in stator assure of operating life of the motor.

3).  The pump adopts outer recycling cooling design with motor power more than 18.5kw, which can keep the pump operating safely under the lowest water level.

4).  A floating switch is installed at the bottom of motor chamber to protect the mechanical seal in the motor side.

5).  The oil-water probe is installed at the up end of the oil chamber between pump and motor that can protect the mechanical seal in the side. If leakage occurs, the system will signalize and start protection.

6).  Adopt perfect mechanical seal, the sealing material adopt tungsten carbide, silicon carbide and hard metal alloy, which can prevent the water from entering into the motor, and keep the operating reliable and safety.

7).  The auxiliary impeller can balance the pressure outside of the mechanical seal, prevent the water entering into the oil chamber and prolong the life of the motor.

8).  Unique impeller design, wide passage allow large solid and long fiber passing through freely, it features non-clog, convolve-proof and good passing ability.

9).  The changeable wearing ring is installed between the impeller and the volute to keep the optimum operation conditions.

 

5. Impeller Design Characteristics

For the feculence pass freely, it must be widen the flowing passage of impeller, for the big pump, can used for double-vane, or three-vane, for the small pump, it used for single(double) flowing passage, like a bent pipe has same section, it has a good passing characteristic, avoid stop, convolve caused by slowing current possibly. The especially flowing passage of impeller, cooperate with logical volute, made the paper, soft goods, garbage bag and other material in sewage can passing freely and the pump have no vibration in the course of running-in and load through the impeller balance between dynamic and static state.

 

6. FAQ

1) Do you have self-priming pumps?

Yes, our product portfolio also includes two ranges of self-priming pumps: self-priming electric pumps and self-priming side channel pumps.

2) Is it really necessary to fit a bleed valve for the boxes?

It is always best to have a bleed valve as the gas produced by the fermenting sewage is potentially hazardous.

3) If I increase the power of the motor, must I also increase the power of the inverter?

You must select the size of converter that allows maximum absorption of the electric motor.



WQ series Designed Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pump

WQ series Designed Sewage Centrifugal Submersible Pump




Q:directions on changing water pump 2001 gmc pickup
how to change water pump in heat maker boiler
Q:What's the difference between a double suction pump and a single suction pump?
The difference between a single suction pump and a double suction pump is that the double suction pump has two intake ports, while the single suction has only one intake.
Q:I need to fit a booster pump to increase pressure from a gravity fed vented solar water heater (uses vacuum tubes).The problem is that the temperature of the water from the solar panel can be very high - in fact it could boil under some circumstances. It's safe because the system is vented.As the quot;solarwater feeds existing water heaters in the house, diluting the hot with some cold prior to the pump with an automatic mixer valve is not really an attractive option as we want to gather as much hot water as possible.Can anyone tell me where to get a booster pump that can operate at up to 100 Deg C, delivering 2 bar pressure and about 25 liters per minute. Thanks.
Yes you can as per the other answer . Make sure when you do you dont exceed the Gallons per minute of the cellar pump or you will burn up the pump on your house . Also make sure that the pump in your moms house can only pump up to 50 psi . Most well pumps can pump higher but that is the setting on the presure switch You might be able to change the tank and switch in moms cellar to a bigger presure tank and up the presure on the presure switch and cure the problem that way and not work the well pump so hard by turning off and on so often .
Q:30kW what is the flow rate of the pump?
Estimated traffic: Q = nP/ (9.8H), =70%*30/ (9.8H), =2.14/H (m^3/s)It is estimated that the efficiency of the water pump unit n=70%, power P to kW as a unit, the head H to m as a unit, you go to check the head H is how many meters, into the formula can be considered the flow rate is how many cubic meters per second.
Q:I have a new water pump with its new gasket to be installed tomorrow. Do I still need to apply a gasket sealer (blue RTV silicone) on the gasket itself? If I do, do I need to apply it on both sides of the gasket? Thank you.
Yes But not both sides Apply small dabs a couple of inches apart on the face of the water pump than carefully spread it out try not to get any inside the pump then place the gasket on line up holes the sealer will hold it in place
Q:Hello,Thanks for looking into my question. I am a little confused on the definition of a submersible water pump. I am assuming that they are actually submerged but that sounds a bit unlikely in my mind. I suppose if it has a GFCI setup built in with everything sealed beyond the portion that pumps, it would work submerged without any risks involved.Are submersible water pumps meant to be fully submerged? I am mainly interested in this information because I am concerned about the amount of noise they make, being submerged seems likely that they would not be able to be heard. Thanks.
Submersible water pumps are totally submersible. They are encased watertight. Mainly, since they are submerged inside a well away from the house, even if the made a little noise, you wouldn't hear it unless maybea bearing was bad, or the brushes were bad. When your pressure tank is filling, you can hear a little hum (IF you are at the scene of where the tank is. If you are talking about a sump pump that you use to pump standing water, say, out of your basement, since it is portable and awkward, there might be a racket when it is running. Papaw
Q:I'm looking to buy a used 2001 Protege. The car is nearing 75000mi, but the owner has not changed the timing belt or the water pump. I found out that it is recommended to change the timing belt at 60000mi, but couldn't find anything on the water pump. Realistically, when would I need to replace these, and any idea how much it would cost?Thanks!
That could have either the 1.6 liter or 2.0 liter engine. My information shows that if you have the 1.6 liter, at least you don't have to worry about bending valves against pistons if the belt breaks -- you'll just be stuck out on the road until you can get it towed and fixed. Not so with the 2.0 which is an interference engine. So if you DO have the 2.0, pay attention -- you don't want an expensive breakdown! You're on borrowed time at 75K. For both engines, Mazda recommends that you replace the timing belt every 60K miles. Gates (a major replacement supplier) seems to think these belts will go 105K. Since it's a factory belt, stick with 60K. As for the water pump, it's often one of those while you're already in there sort of things when you're doing a timing belt. 60K makes it a tougher call, especially with the better quality of water pump bearings and seals. If your interval were 80K ~ 100K as is true on some cars, I'd say go for it without blinking. As cheap as it'll be (it's really just the price of the pump), and it was my set of wheels, I'd do it anyway, even at 60K, if it needed to be pulled to do the belt.
Q:no water is running my deep well pump kicks on every 15 min. it runs for 1-2 min when it kicks off then a noise like someone threw a ball against the house. can you help
it sounds like either your pressure switch is messed up or your pressure tank isn't working right
Q:I Have a 1982 Suzuki DT8 Outboard motor, i rebuilt the water pup, new impeller, wear plate, all that. This is the first time iv run it in a barrel, it wont pump water now. But here is the thing, when i take the inspection cover off(the little round cover that lets you acces the shift linkage), and i run the motor, it will pump water. i noticed that wile i have that cover off all the exhaust comes out that hole and not out the bottom, is the exhaust getting sucked in the pump and stopping it from circulating water?
i agree with richard. get a hose attachment, a set of earmuffs and run it with them. you wont be able to see water exiting the prop shaft area with the motor in a bucket. hte indicator, where the motor normally pisses to show its pumping water, those sometimes get clogged and need cleared out. it is possilbe for the motor to suck air, or exhuast, instead of water, if a gasket is bad around the impeller. in addition to the gaskets normally changed, there are more gaskets underneath that. usually, those gaskets only go bad if the motor is overheated to the point that the old impeller housing shows signs of excessively high temps. if the old housing was half metled, id go ahead and pull it apart and change the other gaskets too. but the exhuast chooses to exit that port becuase its easier to go out there then through the water. and you see water exit with it, so you know it is pumping water up into the motor. i'll also point out this much. if you are unsure, take it to a proffessional. you can total your motor by operating it without a properly working cooling system. paying a pro to fix it right is much cheaper then a new motor.
Q:About how to calculate the pump installation height?
When the water temperature is 4 degrees centigrade, the water pump is installed on the theoretical height of 10.33 meters, is the atmospheric pressure to the hydraulic pump inlet to the level of theory, in practical engineering, the water flow in the pipeline will produce resistance and other factors, the actual installation height generally less than 7 meters. The installation height limit of the pump shall be less than the design suction stroke of the pump.

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