Vertical Centrifugal Submersible Pump

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Loading Port:: Shanghai

Payment Terms:: TT OR LC

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Supply Capability:: 5000 unit/month

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Quick Details

Place of Origin:Henan, China (Mainland)
Model Number:250QJ140-150/10
Theory:Centrifugal Pump
Structure:Multistage Pump
Usage:Water
Power:100 kW
Standard or Nonstandard:Standard
Fuel:Electric
Pressure:High Pressure
Application:deep well,open well
Material:Cast Iron / 304,316 Stainless Steel
Color:Blue
Max.Pump Diameter:10" inch
Flow Range:140m3/h
Head Range:150m
Outlet:5 inch
Drive:Motor
OEM and Design Service:Accept

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Details:	wooden box packing (210CM 40CM40CM )
Delivery Detail:	5-7days after payment confirmation or as customers' requirements

Specifications

vertical centrifugal submersible pump
1.capacity:2-1000m3/h
2.copper end ring,easy use
3.mechanical seal
4.simple structure

vertical centrifugal submersible pump

Technical datas:

Flow Range: 2 ~ 1000m3/hr
Head Range: 10 ~ 700m
Fluid Temp.: 0 ~ 120 degree
PH Value: 6.5 ~ 8.5
Sand Conten: Up to 0.01%

Features
1	The motor and the pump united as one, working under water, more reliable.
2	No special requirements for the well casing and lifting pipe. (It can work in Steel tubular well, lime well, earth well etc. Within the reasonable pressure range, steel tube, rubber tube and plastic hose can be used as lifting pipe.)
3	Easy to install, operate and maintain, less space demand, no pump house needed
4	Simple structure, less cost, Submersible

Application
1	Ground water suction equipment
2	Water lifting in rivers, reservoirs and Canals
3	Agriculture irrigation
4	Water supply for human and animal in plateau and mountain area
5	Water drainage in city, factories, railway system, mining area and construction site
6	Water supply equipment in any possible places

QJ Deep Well Pump Construction & Features

--- Compact vertical centrifugal multi-stage design with perfect standardization and generalization, easy operation and convenient maintenance.
--- A complete electric submersible pump includes a water pump set, electric motor, a discharge piping, water-proof cable and a control panel.
---Submersible motor filled with clean water for cooling and lubrication. And the pressure regulation switch, located at the bottom of motor, shall automatically operate to balance the pressure fluctuation caused by temperature variations.
---A sand slinger and oil-sealed skeleton are equipped at the upper part of motor to form a closed operating system for the motor, thus preventing any sand to penetrate into the motor.
--- Water injection hole as well as air release hole are designed at the upper part of the motor, and water release hole at bottom (lower) part.
--- Thrust bearing and collar are designed at lower part of motor to stand the weight of the squirrel caged rotor and the axial thrust residual.
--- Water-proof electromagnetic wiring for stator with excellent insulation.

Q:I have a new water pump with its new gasket to be installed tomorrow. Do I still need to apply a gasket sealer (blue RTV silicone) on the gasket itself? If I do, do I need to apply it on both sides of the gasket? Thank you.: Use an RTV sealer, It is black in color, works the best i have found. Now you put some spit on your fingers, i know sounds silly but it will keep the silicone from sticking to your skin. then put the silicone on your index and thumb, and work the sealer into the paper gasket. This will cause it to have a skin on both sides offering the best seal you can get. Now be sure that there isn't any moisture or chalky corrosion on mating surfaces. Not that it is too big a deal with the moisture , but i have watched guys not clean up the (corrosion) surfaces which mate and they ended up redoing the job.Hope this helps. P.S. I've never had a come back for my waterpumps and I'm well over 50 now. This method is tested and true.

Q:What I am trying to explain is that I took my vehicle to be serviced for a water pump. They installed it, but when I got my vehicle back, it started making this clicking noise. I took it back to be diagnosed and they came back to me saying that I need a new engine? (Before I took in my vehicle there was no clicking sound or problems, just the water pump.)Could this be the dealer trying to pull something for their mistake or what?: a stuck open thermostat will cause the engine to run colder, this will trick the computer into thinking the engine still needs to warm up and the fuel mixture will stay very rich. that could explain the fuel mileage issues. I don't think the bolt is a problem. The hose at the top should be hotter than the bottom hose, that means your radiator is doing its job, cooling the engine's coolant before it goes back into the engine.

Q:95 mustang leaking water pump changed the pump and its running backward now: you have your belt on the opposite side of the water pump pully just gotta switch it around

Q:3 months ago I had to replace the water pump on my Jeep (for $600!!!). Now I have leaking again and they are telling me that I need a new radiator. I'm wondering how did they know I needed a water pump last time (it was leaking just like now) and not a new radiator like they're saying this time? I know nothing about anything, and I feel like I'm not informed enough to know what they're really doing. Is this common?: Could be both. The water pump may have been leaking. Did the leak stop after the work was done? If so then it was leaking. The radiator may just have lived out it's life. Corrosion will eventually cause these types of things. I don't know where you're located but $600 for a water pump is a rip off. Maybe you went to the dealer? If it's not under a warranty and you're not buying a new one the jeep does not belong at the dealership. I recently did my water pump on my 94. $100 including new hoses and about 45 minutes. So even parts mark up and $60 labor should have been about $210 or so. For the radiator they are about $150 again depending on where you are. See if you can get a 3 core. More cooling capacity almost the same price. If you're around Maryland e-mail me and I can help you do it yourself.

Q:where t is in minutes since the pump is started. If the holding tank contains 1000 liters of water when the pump is started, how much water does it hold one hour later?: Water is pumped out of a holding tank at a rate of 4-4e^(-.14t) liters/minute. Lets call that function w(t). So if we integrate w(t) over a time period that will give us the total water removed over that time period. So lets integrate it from t=0 (time when pump started) to t=60 (one hour later): ∫ w(t) from t=0 to t=60 ∫ w(t)=∫ 4-4e^(-.14t)=4t+(4/.14)e^(-.14t) evaluated from 0 to 60 ∫ w(t)=4(60)+(4/.14)e^(-.14*60)-4(0)-(4/.1... ∫ w(t)=211.435 liters removed If the holding tank began at 1000 liters and 211.435 were removed... Remaining water=1000-211.435 ***Remaining water=788.565 liters***

Q:i mean, the water that runs through the ground from rain and ends up in the pit in the basement,is it clean to drink in an emergency? live close to a public road where they salt for snow and ice, so do you suppose that is in the water?: In okorder /

Q:I was wondering if there was a device that can pump and cool water. What I am looking for is essentially an aquarium pump that cools the water as it circulates.: You okorder /

Q:I recently took my 2002 Pontiac Grand Prix in for an oil change, and was told that my water pump has burst. I knew something happened the previous night because all of a sudden my car was overheating and when I opened the hood there was water everywhere, Anyways I am currently a single mom, working temp jobs while I look for something permanent. I can not afford the 350.00 to get it fixed. If I continue to drive the car am I looking at serious damage, He showed me how to fill the water tank (or whatever) so that the car will not be empty, But he says I need to get it fixed soon: I will try to put this simply. It is very serious. Water cools your engine and without the pump to circulate it, your engine will overheat and very quickly damage itself. Even if you add water constantly, it is not being circulated, your engine will overheat and the new water you will put in will probably instantly boil and rush up into your face. My advice. Don't drive it until you can get it fixed. Sorry, I know this isn't what you wanted to hear, but I am concerned for your safety and I don't want you to wreck your engine and you will if you keep driving it. The damage you can do is like this. The engine overheats and seizes up. This means that the engine parts, pistons and rings have expanded beyond design limits. They break inside and wreak havoc. The crankshaft and big end bearings can seize also. If all this happens, you are looking at a reconditioned engine. Fix your pump. It's cheaper

Q:I have a 2002 Honda Civic Ex sedan with about 105k miles. Sometime before 110k I need to get the timing belt replaced. At about 95k my mechanic asked if I wanted to replace the timing belt and the water pump. According to the owners manual the timing belt must be replaced, but it simply says check the water pump.I don't want to pay for unnecessary repairs, but I also know that both of these jobs are quite involved, but can be done together fairly easily. Is there anything I can do to check myself or do I just have to trust my mechanic when I take it in. Also, what is the cost difference between the timing belt job and adding in the water pump at the same time?: just me 1 water pumps last 150k and 15 yrs usually 2 change belt sooner than later 3 if you r keeping car 5 yrs more change wp too 4 its a as long as its apart do it saving future labor

Q:what could cause a impeller on a water pump to be completly shredded up i just had to change mine in my toyota camry and was wondering if i could do anything to prevent this from happening again?: the pump bearing did that. all you can do is change the pump and hope it last a long time.

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