Steel Bar Welded Mesh

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1. Product Description:

Steel mesh and said: welded steel mesh, welded mesh, welded wire mesh, welded wire mesh, steel mesh, etc.. Is the longitudinal and transverse reinforcement of a certain distance, and each other into a right angle, all the cross points are welded together in the network.

Steel mesh used in industrial and civil buildings beam floor, roof, wall, concrete pavement, bridge deck pavement, airport runway, tunnel lining, box culvert, dock floor, prefabricated units, and other fields.


2. Product Characteristic:

1. Significantly improve the engineering quality of steel

2. Obviously improve the construction speed

3. Reinforced concrete anti cracking ability

4. Have better comprehensive economic benefits



AS/NZS 46712001
BS 4483


Acold-rolled deformed bar GRADE:CRB550

Bhot-rolled deformed bar GRADE:HRB400





Reinforcement spacing(mm)





Mechanical and process property

Meet “GB/T1499.3-2002” standard;AS/NZS 4671; 2001,BS 4483:2005,A185-02

Mesh size(mm)


max 3300By transportation limitedtrucks2350train2750




4. Reference Picture:



Q:Hey can some1 help me, on my lamp i have a White, a Yellow wire with tints of green in it and a black wire. on my cord that i am going to plug in is a Blue, brown and a yellow wire
Run a continunity check on the cord from the brown and blue wires to the blades on the plug. The brown should go to the wider blade, but could be other way around. Then the yellow wires go together. The one (brown or blue) from the wider blade goes to the black one from the lamp. The other one goes to the white wire.
Q:Who sells just 4 gauge power and ground wire so I can do the big 3 upgrade?
OKorder or OKorder where I got my wires from. cheap and good quality.
Q:Hi,I have an issue with wiring in house. This is in Paris, France. I will share a foto so you can have a clearer picture what my question is.
It's not just your oven that makes a difference, but the year your oven was manufactured in AND the country it was manufactured in that makes a difference. It was easy to identify your supply wires as Brown = live wire; Blue = return (neutral) wire; green/yellow = earth ground, and this is single phase wiring. There would be an orange wire for 3 phase... ...but the oven wiring conforms to a different standard of gray - white -red where red is possibly the ground line, while the other two are your live and return wires, with the gray likely to be the return some time periods, the red wire was the live wire. Your best bet is to test the oven wiring out with a multi-meter and look at what color of wire is connected to where. The earth ground should be connected to the oven's cabinetry; the live wire would be wired to the oven's internal fuse or circuit breaker, and then wired to the business end of the heater elements, timers, etc. The return wire would be connected to the other side of the elements and timers. Your most reliable way to address this is to consult a professional. That second link I posted has both old and new French wiring standards, and neither match your oven. And if your oven isn't manufactured in France, you have yet another level of wiring code to unscramble.
Q:How can it be possible to create a high voltage and have a small gauge wire? Example: 3gj or 3000mw in a small wire (just an example)
insulation depend on voltage not wire
Q:A potential difference of 13 V is found to produce a current of 0.37 A in a 3.1 m length of wire with a uniform radius of 0.42 cm.(a) What is the resistance of the wire? (b) What is the resistivity of the wire? Please show work.
P. D. applied = V = 13 V Current produced = I = 0.37 A (a) Resistance of the wire = R = V / I = 13/0.37 = 35.14 Ohm (b) R = ρL/A = (ρL) / π r?) = ρ = (R A) / L = R (π r?) / L ......... (1) R = Resistance of the wire = 35.14 Ohm , L = length of the wire = 3.1 m A = Area of cross-section of the wire = π r? r = radius of cross-section of the wire = 0.42 cm = 0.0042 m ρ = Resistivity of the wire in Ohm-m Substitute the values in the formula (1) and calculate. Take π = 3.14
Q:I am currently doing a guitar build and want to do the 21 tone jimmy page wiring style. I have a few questions. I can follow the diagram attached fairly well but am just confused on certain points. 1. for all the wires excluding the pickup wires, so the majority of the black wires, should those be hot wire or ground wire? I bought a wire back that has black ground wire and hot white wire and am confused on what to use when. 2. Specifically with the black wire coming from each pickup, once those go to a terminal on the pot the black wire that comes off of that joint is a connecting wire like in question 1, not a stretch of the pickup wire correct?3. When multiple wires come to a single solder joint should you tin the pot and then add one wire at a time to that spot or solder them all together and then to the pot?
Hello there, 1) Excluding pickups, black wire hot or ground? They use black for both in that diagram. I believe the only ground wires are all marked as ground in the diagram. A ground wire will run from the case of a pot to somewhere. To the ground side of the jack. To the bridge. To another pot. As for what you bought, I have no idea what you are trying to say. There is no difference in the wire itself that is used for ground or hot. You can use any wire (except bare) for either of those. 2) The black wire from the bridge pickup goes to a terminal of the switch on the push/pull bridge volume pot. You may solder the wire and continue the same wire down to the terminal of the switch on the push/pull tone pot. Or you can use another wire to connect those switches. The black wire from the neck pickup go to the middle terminal of the neck volume pot. Again, you may continue the wire from the pickup or solder in another wire to connect to the switch on the push/pull neck tone pot. 3). When I run ground wires to the case of a pot. I used separate solder joints. I do not wrap the wires together and then solder them as a group onto the pot. I have tried that and got bad connection on some of the wires. Best to solder ground wires separately. On a switch terminal where you have two wires coming to the same terminal, I try to solder both wires at the same time to the terminal. 4). All connections are soldered. Also, you should be aware that not all pickups have the same colored wires. You need to check the color code for the brand of pickups you are using. Seymour Duncan makes his diagrams based on using his pickups. If you use some other brand, the color of the pickup wires may be different. Seymour Duncan has a pickup wire color code chart on his web site. Later, Norm
Q:do speakers function better with thick or thin wires??
The wiring in your car audio system is very important. The higher the gauge of wire you choose to use the less resistance will be placed on the amplifier or head unit (which have internal amplifiers). This means more power to the speakers and ultimately more quality sound. It depends on the wattage of the system to determine the appropriate gauge of wire but as a rule the bigger the better. I would recommend getting a good quality speaker wire. Good speaker wires use the most conductive metals for the wire material, such as copper. They feature thick jackets that wont wear through from rubbing and vibrations. Choose a good 16-18 gauge wire from a company like Streetwires. Dont cheap out on your speaker wire its an important part of your installation.
Q:The wires I have are: 1 red starter cable, 1 tan wire, 1 ground wire to the engine block, 1 red wire to the battery, and 1 red wire that splits into the fuse and into the junction strip. Really need to know which wires go where on the solenoid.
The tan wire is the overtemp warning horn, should have a flat connector on it, connect it to the temp switch near the top of the cylinder head at the back. solenoid has four terminals, 2 large, 2 small. 1 large terminal gets the battery (+) cable *and* the red wire with the inline fuse (it provides +12V to the keyswitch), the other split end gets juice from the alternator for charging the battery. On the terminal strip, it should hook up to red wire coming from the rectifier (small metal canister-shaped device). It's best to secure the battery cable with a nut, then the red wire with a second nut. The other large terminal gets the cable from the starter positive terminal. 1 small terminal gets the white wire from the main wiring harness plug (it's the start circuit), and the other small terminal gets grounded -- just run a black wire from there to any good engine block ground. The small terminals actuate the solenoid, closing the circuit between the battery and the starter motor. To test the overtemp warning circuit, touch the end of the tan wire to the cylinder head with the key in the on position -- steady tone should sound from the buzzer located in the control box. Might want to take a closer look at your tan wire -- maybe the white one yellowed a bit. In '79 they changed that to yellow/red.
Q:I own a 1990 Toyota 4runner 6cyl, 3L. it had a few performance issues when i bought it. ( just didnt seem to have any power idling at around 200), so before spending money on expensive items, i figured spark plugs, wires, cap and rotor. So i just changed the spark plug wires today, and immediatly the truck was runnin much better idling at 800-1000 , about 5 minutes into driving, the problem started again, i parked the truck, it was idling at 200-300 again, opened the hood saw a bit of smoke coming from one of the wires, so im hoping and assuming it was just smoking because the wire was touching a hot surface, i can hear a bit of a clicking noise that i dont remember hearing before, almost like a spark. what could cause the sudden problem, is it possible the wires could be connected to the wrong spark plugs ( i replaced the old ones one by one, so i know i didnt connect it wrong) any tips would be great
The wire burned on something hot and is arcing to ground. Replace it and use a wire loom to stand it away from the problem surface. That clicking sound is the arc.
Q:I've been asking questions to my mom about what is inside the new receiver and then suddenly i asked my mom, what is inside a wire? She didn't know what was inside a wire so i asked if i can post my question on yahoo answers, and then she said yes so i did it.
Under the rubber or plastic coating is - wire - made of metal like copper or aluminum. Sometimes it is a bunch of fine wires bunched together to make up a thicker wire bundle, other times it is one solid piece of wire. House wire is usually solid, things like car wires and stereo wires are made of lots of tiny strands.

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