Single Stage Single Suction Centrifugal Oil Pump

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General Description

Type AY Series Single Stage Single Suction Centrifugal Oil Pump is a new product designed on the base of old type Y oil pump which is suitable for renewing equipment with the aim of saving energy. It is used for petroleum refinery, petrochemical, chemical industry and other petroleum, liquefied petroleum gas and other mediums which are inflammable, explosive, toxic, high temperature and high pressure without solid particles.
Performance range
Capacity:2.3~600m3/h
Head:30~603m
Temperature:t=-45℃~+420℃

Instruction of pump type
For example:
1:250AYS80
250—Suction nozzle diameter (mm)
A:First reform
Y: Centrifugal oil pump
S:First stage impeller is double-suction
80: Head of single stage (m)
2:80AY100X2B
80:Suction nozzle diameter (mm)
A:First reform
Y: Centrifugal oil pump
100:Head of single stage (m)
2: Stage number
B:Impeller cutting code
Construction:
 The construction of oil pump type AY is divided into eight kind single-stage and single-suction overhung, double-stage and single-suction overhung, single-stage and double-suction overhung, single-stage and double-suction with two ends supporting, double-stage and double-suction with two ends supporting, single-stage and double-suction with two ends supporting,multi-stage and ring section.
The single and double stage pump casing is installed horizontally with supported on the center line. The suction and discharge nozzle flanges are cast together on the pump casing and vertical upwards. The stuffing boxes and pump cover are cast together which can be installed with soft packing seal and mechanical seals such as balancing bellow and series. The water-cooled chamber jacket, which can be selected ,is installed outside of shaft sealing chamber the water cooled chamber will be installed only when required by customers or when the medium is water with temperature more the 66℃ and hydrocarbon compound with temperature more than 120℃.
A journal ball bearing and thrust bearing arranged back-to-back are installed on the bearing housing. The bearings are lubricated by flinger with thin oil. Cooling fins are cast outside of bearing housing which can be cooled by air(temperature is less than 120℃). The bearing housing also can be cooled by water(temperature is 120℃ to 420℃)
The pumps are driven directly by driver through the membrane coupling. View from motor end, the rotating direction is anticlockwise.

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Q:Kayak Foot Braces & Water Pump?
you might check mountain sports in arlington,texas they are good t
Q:auto repair water pump?
Chuck has an excellent step by step write-up on doing the job yourself. Is that your question, how do I change my w/p? If not then please edit to help us help you. (I sound like Jerry McGuire) On Chucks write up I just never wait for the RTV to set up at all just put it on and snug down the bolts.
Q:explain the operation of a water pump....?
There are a number of different types of water pumps that operate according to different principles. For lots of information, including pictures and diagrams, do an internet search on water pump.
Q:how much is it to replace timing belt and water pump?
Two engines were available in the 2002 Voyager - a 2.4L 4 cylinder engine and a 3.3L V6 engine. The 4 cylinder was timing belt driven but the V6 uses a timing chain with no set replacement interval. Replacing the timing belt and water pump in the 4 cylinder is going to be $500-$850.
Q:who can recommend me some good water pumpS?
Water pump. ( Pond ) Sump pump. ( Flood prevention ) Auto water pump. ( Radiator ) What is the specific purpose of the pump.
Q:IS THIS A BAD WATER PUMP?
It depends a lot on the engine in the car, and knowing the year would really help. $600 is outrageously expensive for the 2.2L engine and outrageously cheap for the 2.4L engine. You can replace your own on the 2.2, with a little help from somebody experienced. I definitely don't recommend trying water pump replacement on the 2.4L engine! No timing belt on either. If the leak is slow enough you can carry conventional antifreeze and purified water (no tap water!) and refill every morning and every afternoon. When you are adding more than a quart of the combined liquids (either premix or manually use half of each) you will have to come up with an alternate plan. As thebax says, stop leak won't work on a water pump.
Q:How to remove a 1983 Chevy Silverado water pump?
remove the fan shroud , then the then belt, then the fan. drain coolant then remove hoses from pump. then the water pump .. it is a 2 hour job at most . can be done as little as a hour if you have the right tools and understand the job. you will need special too to remove fan. rest is 10mm 13mm , 14mm or 15 mm bolts .. press clamps need pliers or flat screw driver to remove clamps .
Q:Could I replace a water pump myself?
i doubt that your motor vehicle has 2 gas pumps yet until now you replace the pump have it examined first ! besides the pump it ought to be something else like the pump relay or the fuse ! not commencing ought to additionally be a clogged gas clear out ! getting back to the thermostat and water pump ! specific you are able to replace them in case you have the appropriate kit and your quickly vulnerable !
Q:How can I be sure the water pump is the problem before spending $ on repairs. 97 civic overheating.?
Simple overheating is rarely the water pump. In most cases water pump failure means either a leak, which is visible as dripping from a weep hole under the car near the timing belt cover, or as a seized shaft, which would mean the engine would quit running immediately and probably be seriously damaged by failure of the timing belt that powers the water pump. Having got past that, consider the conditions of the overheating. If you are losing coolant, start with that. Verify the loss is not because of a head gasket by the simple test: with the engine cold, remove the radiator cap. Start the engine and place the palm of your hand over the radiator neck where the cap came off, and pinch closed the hose to the reservoir. If you feel steadily rising pressure within 3-5 seconds (if the idle is surging, ignore those changes) that is bad news for the head gasket. Otherwise move on. Look for leaks at the end of every hose by feeling with a clean paper towel on your hand, and look for whitish streaks around the top and bottom of the radiator. If coolant is not disappearing, the overheating must occur when in slow traffic or idling, or on the highway, or all the time. If it is when going slow or idling you probably won't see the fan running when it is hot. If it is on the highway, or if it gets hot and stays hot all the time, the radiator is probably plugged with hard water deposits from using tap water to dilute the antifreeze.
Q:Do I need to replace my water pump?
Sounds like it's probably the water pump to me too. It's easy to tell though, just get it on a lift and take a look at the water pump. If it's leaking out of the weeping hole, it's toast. Don't power wash an engine unless you want to risk very expensive repairs from water being forced into places it's not supposed to be. Odds of the pump locking up and leaving you stranded before those bearings get VERY upset, start screaming and dumping fluid like there's a hole in the system is a hundred to one. You should be able to limp it to a shop just fine when it gets worse. Just be careful not to overheat and you'll be fine. (I did say 1 in a hundred, you're not super unlucky, are you?)

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