• Sewage Water Treatment Pump from China System 1
  • Sewage Water Treatment Pump from China System 2
Sewage Water Treatment Pump from China

Sewage Water Treatment Pump from China

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Quick Details

Place of Origin:
Zhejiang China (Mainland)
Brand Name:
CNBM
Model Number:
V1500F
Theory:
Centrifugal Pump
Structure:
Single-stage Pump
Usage:
Water
Power:
Electric
Standard or Nonstandard:
Standard
Fuel:
Other
Pressure:
Low Pressure
Application:
Sewage
Motor wire:
100% cooper
Mechanical seal:
Carbon&Ceramic
Shaft:
AISI420(2Gr13)
cable length:
10 meters
Impeller:
cast iron

Packaging & Delivery

Packaging Detail:Carton Package Demensions:590mm*350mm*250mm 480pcs/one 20" container GW:27kg
Delivery Detail:Within 25 days after receiving deposit

Specifications

Submersible water pump
1.ISO9001:2008,CE,GS
2.OEM Service
3.Good quality and factory price
4.100% copper wire

WASTE WATER PUMP

◊APPLICATION

Applied to pumping such liquid which is not clean, with solid matter or frictional matter, low viscous, lcorrosive, crystallizable, chemically neutral and close to water. Such as:

1.  domestic wastewater treatment system

2.  School,hospital,community wastewater treatment system

3.  Irrigation

◊ Features

1. 100% copper wire

2. Cold-rolled silicon steel sheet, with high-speed punching, improve the efficiency and precision

3. Double sides mechanical seal graphite&ceramic

4. Demagnetization of stainless steel nuts

5. Anti-rust treatment castings and electrophoresis

6. New testing equipment

◊ OPERATION CONDITION

1.Maximum depth below water: 5m

2.Maximum trans medium temperature up to: 40

3.PH of trans medium is scope from 4-10

◊TECHNICAL DATA

description   material
motor housingstainless steel
pump bodycast iron
impellercast iron
shaftAISI420(2GR13)
statorDR510 steel
winding100%copper
sealmechanical seal
graphite&ceramic

Q:I'm not talking about for a car. Just the standard water pump for you house. Ours won't click on when it's supposed to. First we had to hit the tank itself, and now we have to tap the box on top (I'm assuming some sort of fuse box as there are wires coming out of it). It's getting ridiculous and I'm just ready to buy a new one, but I'm not sure where all you can buy one.
Lowe's Home Depot etc. The question is why in the world are you messing with a connection junction box (ie; electricity) and water when there are professionals out there to do the troubleshooting for you.... heck maybe even save you money in the long run. It may not be the pump, but a short in the electrical.
Q:I've bleed the lines, and gotten rid of all the air bubbles. I've replaced the thermostat correctly, (triple checked) and I don't think it's the water pump because it isn't leaking what so ever. My temperature gauge is not moving what so ever, and the coolant reservoir over flows heavily, and I can hear a thumping sound in the radiator.
Flush out the radiator.. check to confirm a bhg with a compression test.
Q:I had a re-manufactured water pump installed and after 14 months I started smelling my radiator occasionally. Never suspected the pump since my original pump lasted 60,000 miles and was still fine when they replaced it feigning quot;it is customary to replace water pump with timing beltwhen in actuality my Hyundai Elantra just needs the pump checked every 60,000 miles. The re-manufactured water pump was diagnosed leaking for sure after 20 months. Anyway I believe the leaking pump which didn't get discovered for at least 4 to 6 months caused the early demise of my radiator. Does that make sense?Thanks,Mitzi
i strongly disagree. a leaky pump, loosing fluid, replaced by air via a recovery system, will create excess water jacket pressures. ergo, the radiator. even if it has air trapped in it. that excessive pressure, if the rad is marginal/old, can cause rad leaks. any seasoned mechanic out there has experienced a vehicle that had air in it, and be so hot as to charge the system. on some, you can actually here them go bang as water/coolant, flows into a part of the systems that has just air. that sends pressure shock waves through out the system. i've experience some so hot, they won't shut off. dieseling per say. ---------- EDIT, Michael sir. i'm an ex fighter jet hydraulic/pneumatic tech USAF. 40 yr auto mechanic. 5 yrs on Harley's (iron blocks). been dealing with the use of compressed fluids and gas for some time now. ex boeing employee on the 747 as well. i just don't ahve all that in my profile. mostly, i just let facts speak for themselves. weather or not an OP see's that is up to them. --------- pressure can built up faster than it can be bleed off in *some* cases. especially if it's a slow leak. those were generic statements. meaning, they are a possibility. not out of the realm of possibility, and would be far from the first time it ever happened, that a bad pump can cause other parts of the coolant system to malfunction. i've seen marginal rads, hoses, and even heater cores go as a result of over pressureazation of the water jacket. but i meant no disrespect here. i will delete my seasoned mechanic remark. simply stating i have seen/experienced, in the shop, over the years, many instances like what i stated. it's not impossible!!! i'll delete all this crap too if you delete your remark. how bout it? friends?
Q:WATER PUMP, HOSES, 1998 TOWN COUNTRY
this is just a rought est. but Parts: water pump $129, Hoses $45 Each, Coolant 2 gal $30, hose clamps $ 5. Labor: water pump 1.2 hours @$89 per labor hour = $106, Hoses .4 hours x 2 hoses = .8 @$89 = $71.20 plus a possible cooling system flush $69. So your looking at around $500 bucks.........that is probably a little high Good luck!
Q:We have a 2001 mazda tribute that has been leaking coolant and overheating. we thought it was just the radiator, so we replaced it, but it is still doing it. It leaks pretty rapidly, and overheats pretty fast too (in 1 to 2 miles of city traffic) Does this sound more like a hose or the water pump? how difficult will it be to replace the water pump?
Firstly follow the water to find the leak. The two problems may not be related. Assuming the radiator you bought was new, here are you possible problems/solutions. Radiator cap is a possibility. This will be apparent if you chase the leak. If you waterpump is begining to fail, you will generally have water coming from a small hole at the base of the snout where the drive pulley is (on most cars). The only way a hose can affect the ability of the cooling system to function is if the lower hose collapses when running. Check to see that this is not happening. If it is, replace the hose and make sure that the new hose has the wire coil inside to prevent this from happening. You may also have a thermostat problem. If the thermostat does not open, you will definately overheat. You cannot always check it with this method, but a good indicator is to feel the upper radiator hose before and after starting the engine (when warmed up). Before starting the engine, the hose should be fairly flexible and easy to squeeze. After starting, and being warmed up, it should get fairly stiff due to the flow going through the hose. Don't forget that the hose will be over 200 degrees, so be careful.
Q:How can I be sure the water pump is the problem before spending $ on repairs. 97 civic overheating.?
Simple overheating is rarely the water pump. In most cases water pump failure means either a leak, which is visible as dripping from a weep hole under the car near the timing belt cover, or as a seized shaft, which would mean the engine would quit running immediately and probably be seriously damaged by failure of the timing belt that powers the water pump. Having got past that, consider the conditions of the overheating. If you are losing coolant, start with that. Verify the loss is not because of a head gasket by the simple test: with the engine cold, remove the radiator cap. Start the engine and place the palm of your hand over the radiator neck where the cap came off, and pinch closed the hose to the reservoir. If you feel steadily rising pressure within 3-5 seconds (if the idle is surging, ignore those changes) that is bad news for the head gasket. Otherwise move on. Look for leaks at the end of every hose by feeling with a clean paper towel on your hand, and look for whitish streaks around the top and bottom of the radiator. If coolant is not disappearing, the overheating must occur when in slow traffic or idling, or on the highway, or all the time. If it is when going slow or idling you probably won't see the fan running when it is hot. If it is on the highway, or if it gets hot and stays hot all the time, the radiator is probably plugged with hard water deposits from using tap water to dilute the antifreeze.
Q:my pump went out and i can't afford to have it fixed at a shop.
94 Nissan Quest
Q:I am taking my car in for a timing bell replacement. My car is a honda accord 2001 6 cycl. The mileage is 80K still way under the manufacturer recommendation. I am thinking of replacing the oil pump and water pump. I am thinking that since the engine is already opened might as well get this done. I don't know if this is necessary. Are these items even closed to the timing belt area? Does anyone have any recommendation when this should be done ?
You should not replace them if they are still working. These items can work for ever or stop working as soon as they are installed.
Q:I currently have a gould 1/3 horse jet water pump and a rusted pressure tank that I would like to replace. There are two bathrooms, both with showers, 2 bathroom sinks and the kitchen sink, as well as the washer. What horse power should I have for 5 faucets and what size pressure tank would be sufficient? The shower in the upstairs bathroom hardly has pressure at all with the current pump and pressure tank. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you in advance.
your right on what it could, once i also have seen a vacuum hose and other hoses like evap hooked into coolant system boy some dude fried his face when he was stupid enough to pull the cap without backing on the evap one it exploded as he was working on it. You can rent a block tester from autozone the dye will turn green or yellow if the head is warped or the gasket is bad. Don't suck up coolant with it while the cap is off just the gasses it uses to determine. A bad water pump causes overheating overall usally or starts leaking, a bad thermostat getting stucked closed will cause overheating. Oh I have even seen cars where someone pulled the thermostat out to cover that up. Anyway, Stucked closed, Which would cause it to overheat as you drive or it is completly warmed up. You can feel both hoses to check it if it is opening and alowing coolant through the radiator.
Q:The dealership wants nearly $500. to replace the water pump in our 2002 Tahoe (5.3) it's leaking from the weep hole. I'm somewhat mechanically declined, what precautions will I need to know and any special tools to do the job myself? I've done a few water pumps back in the 1980's that didn't leak Thank you
2002 Chevy Tahoe Water Pump

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