• Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Serie CMAX28601/28602/28603 System 1
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Serie CMAX28601/28602/28603 System 2
  • Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Serie CMAX28601/28602/28603 System 3
Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Serie CMAX28601/28602/28603

Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Serie CMAX28601/28602/28603

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Loading Port:
China main port
Payment Terms:
TT OR LC
Min Order Qty:
1267.2
Supply Capability:
100000 m²/month

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Product Brief Introduction

 

Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Serie CMAX28601/28602/28603 is one of the most popular color of Pilate Serie, which is one serie of Polished Porcelain Tile in the present market. Just like other series, it could be used for interior floor for apartment, villa, super market as well as other public areas, due to its being high glossy and clean, homogeneous color shade as well as the reasonable price compared with natural stones.


 

Product Features

 

  Polished Porcelain Tile, Double Loading

  Only Grade AAA available

  Strict control on color shade, deformation, anti-pollution, surface glossy degree as well as packing

  Competitive price

  Standard export packing: Pater Carton+ Wooden Pallet

  Fast delivery

  OEM service could be offered

  Marketing support on samples, catalogues as well as carton designing

  Professional sales team for product, document and schedule of importing and exporting.

 

Product Specification 

 

  Tile Type: Polished Porcelain Tile

  Quality standard: GB/T4100-2006, ISO13006, ISO9001

  Water Absorption Rate: 0.5%

  Breaking Strength: 1800 N

  Rupture Modulus: 40 MPa

  Length and Width Tolerance: ±0.1%

  Surface Smoothness: ±0.15%

  Edge Straightness: ±0.15%

  Wearing Strength: 1600 mm3

  Glossiness: 85 Degree

 

 

Packing Information (For 27.5 Tons heavy 20’Fcl)

 

  For 600x600mm, 4pcs/Ctn, 40 Ctns/Pallet, 960 Ctns/20’Fcl, 1382.4m2/20’Fcl

 

Production Line & Package 


Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Serie CMAX28601/28602/28603

Polished Porcelain Tile Pilate Serie CMAX28601/28602/28603

 

 

FAQ

 

1.    For Polished Porcelain Tile, is the 30*60 available?

—— Yes, 30*60 is available. Due to the basic size is 60*60, we need to cut 60*60 tile into 30*60. 6 pcs are packed into one carton.

 

2.    What is the MOQ for this tile?

—— Normally the MOQ is 1382.4 m2 for one 20’ container. To support our clients, we could go with 3 models to fill one container at most.

 

3.    Can we use the carton with our own design and brand name?

—— Yes. Normally we go with Neutral Carton or our Carton with our CMAX brand name. But for carton of client’s own design, the MOQ for one size is 5 containers, due to the carton factory can’t arrange production if quantity is below 5000 pcs. 


4. Why choose our Floor Tile?

1). Less investment and shorter lead time because we ship tiles directly from Factory.

2). Better ETD and more stable price bacause we keep abundant stock for future needs.
3). Experienced service because we have an experienced team and we could send our experienced engineer for guving useful instruction on your jobsite.
4). Better warranty of products because we enjoy a reputation and we have got varies certificates and awards for our products.




Q:I have a new bathtub with Durock cement board installed around it and I‘m ready for tile. I just got a guy out to give me an estimate for doing the tile work around the tub and he said the Durock would have to be primed first. I‘ve heard you‘re supposed to put the tile directly on the Durock, not paint it. Now I don‘t know what to do. Is he wrong? If he‘s wrong, do I hire someone else or just question him? He did another (non-tile related) job for me and did an excellent job, so I trust him, but I‘m nervous about this. Any advice is appreciated. Thanks!
I don't see how priming it would have any advantage. I tiled over some a couple years ago and have had no problems at all. I would think the adhesion would be in question if you are basically adding a layer of paint in between. You don't prime concrete before you lay tile flooring so why would you do otherwise to a cement board? I would ask him for is reasoning behind it. If it sounds like BS and a way to add some time to the job hire someone else.
Q:My house to decorate, who knows how the Villets tile ah?
Feeling can be, my home is with the Weiluo Si, Domestic brand tile ranking (China's top ten brands) 1 Nobel Tiles (well-known best-selling influence brand, national Mianjian products) 2 Marco Polo Tiles (China Famous Brand, National Inspection-free Products) 3 champion tiles (Taiwan's industry's first brand, national Mianjian products) 4 Dongpeng Tiles (China Famous Brand, China Famous Brand, National Inspection-free Products) 5 Mona Lisa Tiles (China Famous Brand, China Famous Brand, National Mianjian Products) 6 Wells Tiles (well-known best-selling brand, national Mianjian products) 7 Samit Tile (China Famous Brand, National Inspection-free Product) 8 Asia Tiles (China Famous Brand, National Mianjian Products) ?? 9 Eagle Tiles (China Famous Brand, National Inspection-free products) 10 gold rudder tiles (China famous brand, national Mianjian products)
Q:I had subway tile installed over a standard size tub. The tiler used 2 x 6 bullnose for the vertical boarder rather than maintaining the staggered look by using 3 x 6 bullnose short as I initially intended. Is there a most common approach for the vertical subway boarder around a tub?
There is no particular common approach for tiling a vertical border with bullnose pieces. It is usually just personal preference. Sometimes people will not even use a bullnose piece for the border, they will just pick out some type of decorative piece and use it for the border. Assuming that you used a ceramic gloss white or black (most common colors in subway tiles) , there is usually a wide variety of sizes available in bullnose peice sizes. It is NOT Uncommon for your border pieces to be a different size than the rest of your subway tile if the size picked finishes the tile work off and ties it together in an interesting way. If however you were prompted to ask this question because you asked a Tile Installer to use the 3x6 size and he refused stating that he was using the most common method, then you are most likely dealing with an installer that did it a way other than you specified because he(or she) did not feel like taking the time to make extra cuts it would require for your size to work... The only exception to my last sentence would be if there is something structural that I am not aware of. Hope this helps.
Q:i have just put down adhesive floor tiles in my bathroom, do i now need to use an extra sealant/pvc wash to seal the joins between the tiles as my kids enjoy splashing in the bath and i dont want the floor ( pvc sealed boards ) to lift if water gets in the gaps?
Vinyl tiles are not a very good flooring for bathrooms. Sheet vinyl is 100 times better. I'd replace them totally, its better to do that, than get warped floor boards and a stained ceiling. Sorry to say this, but I'm a professional floor layer and I fit these tiles aswell as sheet vinyl, and I advise customers against the tiles, their cheap and easy to install, but they are a mediocre flooring.
Q:in my bathroom what do i need thats easy an inexpensive? Can i do it myself.? trying to do it for my mother this weekend while she is away. Have tile thats old and seperating can i just pull it up clean the floor and lay the tile?
Yes you can do it yourself. But you'll need a lot of guidance. Probably too much to give you here. Is it on concrete? If so, you'll have less problems. If it's on wood, you'll have to tear up the first layer of the subfloor and lay down backerboard (hardibacker). There are two types. Use the 1/4 inch. The 1/2 inch is for walls. You'll need thin set, tile cutters, maybe tile nippers. Grout and a float. Then you'll probably have to replace the base boards. Are the base boards real wood or pressed wood? Pressed wood doesn't hold up very well in moist areas. I suggest real wood. Then don't forget to paint them with a mold resistant paint. Oh yes, don't forget to remove the toilet. You will want the partial tiles to end in a corner of the room that is the least obvious. You will have to do a dry lay to determine how to lay down the full tiles in the best way. (Dry lay is explained in the how to do it books.) I suggest you get a book on how to lay tiles. Also go down to Lowe's or Home Depot and go to their classes. Since each instructor lays tile differently, go to several of their classes and ask a lot of questions. There are many different tiles. Some are natural stone (marbel, travertine, granite). Some are man-made (ceramic). Some are cheap, some are expensive. But more importantly some are very smooth and slippery while others offer a little more traction. (With that said I layed down marble-very slippery in my bathrooms and kitchen simply because it looked so good!) Do your research before you begin your project. Think it out and ask a lot of questions to people that have done this. Laying the tile is easy. But it does take some basic knowledge. Good luck!!
Q:I have ten 4x4 ceramic tile that I cannot find new. What is an easy way to clean the backs off so I can re-use them?
With Acid easily available in the market. And I am it is HCL. Thats the only way to bring the original shine of ceramic tile.
Q:Tile 60 * 60 price
There is no certain price, depends on you to buy a few lines of brand, more expensive first-line brand. Second, depends on what type of brick you buy, such as tiles cheaper, all throwing glaze more expensive.
Q:We have a big problem with our tiles in our bathroom, they wont stick.We have painted the floor with the pva. used (waterproof athesive) don‘t know if thats the correct name for it. my boyfriend has let his dad do the tiling as he knows how to do it. i told him to get a profesionals. but he wants he‘s dad. so now we have been having this problem. if any one knows what should we do or use different glue or something, that would really help., thanx
First off, PVA glue is a BIG NO NO! it is a craft glue and should never be used for installing any kind of tile unless its in a doll house! The glue will not stick to the tiles and will come up soon after you walk on them!!! Stick your finger in that glue and wait for it to dry, You will be able to peel it off and almost have the same shape of your finger! Pretty cool but not good for tile installation! What kind of tiles are they? Ceramic or stone? You should be using thinset to install the tile! VCT tile? you should be using VCT contact cement/glue! Remove the tiles, Peel any Glue off the tile and floor (should be very easy to do) and use the proper adhesive for the tile you have!
Q:well I burned a small hole in a linoleum tile. How do I fix it?
if the linoleum tile is in the corner of the room you can always try peeling it off with a scraper an hopefully you will have hardwood floor underneath
Q:ive never tiled anything before. i was thinking of replacing our old tiles around the fireplace and puttnig in slate ones. i am wondering if its a bigger project than it seems. will i have to remove the mantle to do it. is it harder to tile something on the wall or fireplace than the floor? should i just seek a professional or is it easy?thanks
I don't know about horrible but certainly impractical; unless the fireplace is merely decorative; or an electric one. TILE is usually fired at approx. 2000 degrees; essentially creating glass. It's highly unlikely you'd ever have a fireplace fire get that hot...Hopefully. The issue is more that constant stress on the tile in heating and cooling; and the effect on any mortar you choose. Beyond that is the issue of the tile being hidden most often; and the need to clean it often to be able to view it when no fire is present. Fireplaces are crafted using Brick, that allows no such effects from temp variations, and offers some level of insulation against the heat produced within the confines of the fireplace. Certainly you might consider tiling a hearth; or creating a hearth that you can tile; but it seems a bit defeating to tile into a fireplace. Tile; especially floor type; are created through different heat ranges and substances; to be graded in durability. Assume something like A being the least durable, and D being the most durable. That equates to normal traffic and wear. I'll assume someone will tell you; Sure; there are heat resistant tiles and mortars but I'll go back to my notion of the aesthetics and ask why bother? Steven Wolf

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