Off-grid Solar Panel TDB125×125/4-36-P Lower Weight Design

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Off-grid Solar Panel TDB125×125/4-36-P Lower Weight Design




·         Highest performance enabled by higher efficiency monocrystal line cells and the latest Solar Wafer Technology for multicrystal line cells

·         Lower weight design which reduces the total system load on a roof, making it ideal for residential customers. Its shape allows for better roof utilization

·         Its low weight means easier handling for installers

·         Modules are designed to withstand PID (Potential Induced Degradation)*

·         High light transmission Anti-Reflective Glass with improved self-cleaning capability

·         0/+5 W Positive power tolerance for reliable power output 




CNBM Solar provides one of the most comprehensive module warranties in the industry:

·         10 years for product defects in materials and workmanship

·         First 12 years for 90% of warranted minimum power

·         Remaining 25 years for 80% of warranted minimum power


CNBM Solar strictly carries out the ISO 9001 quality control methodology and has implemented check points at every step of the production process to ensure our product performance durability and safety. The stringent quality control process has been confirmed by numerous independent agencies and LDK Solar modules earned IEC, TUV and UL certifications.

·         IEC:IEC 61215, IEC 61730 (1&2), conformity to CE

·         UL 1703 2002/03/15 Ed:3 Rev:2004/06/30

·         ULC/ORD-C1703-01 Second Edition 2001/01/01

·         UL and Canadian Standard for Safety Flat-Plate

·         ISO 9001: 2008 Quality Management Systems

·         CEC Listed: Modules are eligible for California Rebates

·         PV Cycle: Voluntary module take back and recycling program

·         MCS Certificate

Off-grid Solar Panel TDB125×125/4-36-P Lower Weight Design

Off-grid Solar Panel TDB125×125/4-36-P Lower Weight Design

Off-grid Solar Panel TDB125×125/4-36-P Lower Weight Design



1.    How do I decide which system is right for me ?

For protection from long outages, include a generator or solar panels in your Must solar system. Shorter outages can be handled by a battery-only system.

2.    Where my system will be installed ?

Must solar systems are usually wall-mounted near a home's main electrical (circuit breaker) panel.

3. How do I install my system ?

A must solar backup inverter is connected to a home electric system , we will supply detailed installation manual and videos for our customers .

How fast will my system respond to a power outage ?

Must solar inverters typically transfer to battery power in less than 16 milliseconds (less than 1/50th of a second).

What kind of batteries do the systems include ?

Must solar backup electric systems use special high-quality electric storage batteries.






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Q:Why should I use a Charge Controller for my Battery and Solar Panel based on these provided details?
Should I really be concerned with a Charge Controller? Yes. The main purpose of the charge controller is to protect the battery from over charging. Over charging reduces battery life. And spending extra money for a MPPT type controller will get more more useable power out of your solar panel. Would another battery of the same magnitude be helpful in preventing an accident? How much storage capacity does your current battery have (measured in kWH)? A ~$20 Kill-a-Watt meter would take a lot of uncertainty out of how much power you actually use. Even deep cycle batteries suffer reduced battery life from deep discharges. The battery sounds too small for the loads you describe so I would think you would want more. ---------------------------------------... After reading the other answer In a nutshell, with your small 2 volt starting battery, 24 volt panel and a mix of unknown loads, (which is correct), I thought I would elaborate. I had not considered the possibility that you bought a 24 volt panel for your 2 volt battery. Hooking the panel you bought directly to the current battery is a horrible idea. I you were lucky it would just cook the battery in a short period of time. You basically bought the wrong type of panel for a 2 volt system. I assume that there are no controllers on the the market for this situation. If that's the case, I don't know of any good way match the 24v panel to the 2 volt battery.
Q:Solar panel technology?
Well, you'll want to find the wattage your devices use. Then you'll want to be able to supply that with your solar cells. Plus a fair margin for emergencies. Most of them should have their expected wattage printed on them, but you could also get a meter to measure it. Beyond that, you will want an inverter, and some batteries.
Q:Can a solar panel work with an inverter?
There could be a couple of reasons why it isn't working. First, 2V panels actually put out a considerably higher voltage because it is presumed that they will be used to charge a 2Vdc battery. That requires applying a voltage greater than 2Vdc, and usually there is a solar controller that regulates the solar power to the battery. It also has a voltage drop. Look at the first reference reference, and you will see these values for a particular panel: Voc: 2.6V (open circuit voltage) Vmp: 7.2V (voltage at maximum power point) Voc is the voltage the panel produces under standard sunlight and temperature conditions (25°C), with no load applied. As load is applied, the voltage drops (see reference 2). Power is the product of current times voltage, so at one set of conditions (namely at Vmp) maximum power is available from the panel. Your inverter might not be working for either of two reasons: ) it has input protection circuitry that locks out operation when it senses an overvoltage, as in the 2.6V open circuit voltage, or 2) the panel does not produce enough current and the voltage from the panel collapses under excessive load. For example, if you load your inverter to 20W, then nominally the 2VDC input to the inverter must supply 20W/2V/eff = 0A/eff Assuming the inverter has an efficiency of 80%, the input current required is: 0A/.8 = 2.5A A solar panel operating at maximum power would need a rating of about: 2.5A x 7.2V = 25W Is your panel that big? The other option, as mentioned by others, is to charge a battery that runs the inverter. Other nuances: Voc increases as temperature decreases. Sunlight intensity varies (obviously), so the panel may produce less than rated power. The power specifications often are printed on the back side of the panel.
Q:how to hook up solar panels to meter?
Hooking up without batteries is actually the most common way to do it, but it's a non-trivial project, and dangerous if you don't know what you're doing. There is a device called a grid-tied inverter - that performs the task of putting energy back into the power grid. The reason you don't see homemade panels being hooked to the grid is because the power company's permission is required, and they will not grant it unless you meet building codes, and those codes require parts with at least a UL listing. No homemade panels would quality.
Q:How to wire solar panels?
i'm involved approximately do-it yourselfers, i'm one, yet... Sorry to inform you, yet connecting image voltaic panels to grid capacity will require an electrician. there are a number of standards for specific disconnects to circumvent harm to the utillity corporation workers that would desire to be seen. you will additionally might desire to have an inverter sized to verify your panels. the straight forward answer is to connect your panels to something specific, without connecting it into your place wiring. An occasion is to connect your water properly pump to image voltaic capacity and disconnect it from the grid. yet you will nonetheless want an inverter and could might desire to calculate the capacity demands of the pump and the quantity of capacity available out of your panels, which varies via your longitude and variety. It sound like an straight forward element to do, yet without specific training and adventure you would be sorry in case you attempt this your self.
Q:What makes solar panels Inneficient?
Inability to generate electricity in the absence of light especially at nights or on a rainy day. secondly, it has an inability to store power.
Q:Does anyone know a company that will make custom solar panels?
There's no way that home built system that will generate enough power to run your home off the grid. That's all hogwash! No wind = no electricity generated. No sun = no electricity generated. I'm looking into a grid tie solar system. I'm still working out the math for my home. They are expensive ($20k - $50k) before tax credits, but they have been designed by engineers, not back yard, shade tree wanna-be engineers. They will put power into the grid during the day (making your meter run backwards) and you'll draw the power back at night (when there's no sun). This is perfectly legal. It must be installed by power company approved techs. That's how power companies are going to meet their green energy mandates for the future. You'll generate power for the power company and get paid wholesale prices for it (during the day). But you'll buy it back at retail (at night)
Q:Good Idea To Install A Solar Power Energy On A Restaurant?
not really 2 little 3 very little 4 depends on size of unit 5 depends on how much electricty you use 6 many
Q:How would you connect a solar panel to a fan?
Wire is always good. You may need some electronics to convert the voltage put out by the solar panel to what is required by the fan. Some batteries might be nice so that the fan will run when the sun is not shining.
Q:how can i build my own, cheap, solar panels at home?

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